Best B&M Transmission Cooler?

D

dbsoundman

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Which B&M transmission cooler is the best for the 4runner if you're completely bypassing the radiator's cooler, and plan on possibly towing in the future? I was looking at the 70268, but didn't know if there were any bigger/better ones I should take a look at. Thanks!
 
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I went through Amazon and got the B&M 70268 after doing a significant amount of research on a few 4runner forums. I haven't had a chance to use it though due to a still pending tranny replacement. I did set it up and bypassed the radiator completely eliminating the pink milkshake probability completely. Seems like eliminating that radiator cooler is a no brainer but thats just my opinion.
 
:welcome:
Jagerzel said:
I went through Amazon and got the B&M 70268 after doing a significant amount of research on a few 4runner forums. I haven't had a chance to use it though due to a still pending tranny replacement. I did set it up and bypassed the radiator completely eliminating the pink milkshake probability completely. Seems like eliminating that radiator cooler is a no brainer but thats just my opinion.
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The 70264 has a 1.5" thick core. The 70268 is only .75" thick and only rated to 13,000 BTU. The truck weighs 5,000 Lbs when not towing anything. It will have a very tough time cooling your tranny. You can fit two 70264 coolers in front of the AC condenser on either side of the rad support. And connect in series. As I have mentioned on many past threads, if you decide to bypass the radiator ( which modulates the temp) you would be smart to install a trans temp gauge so you can monitor the efficiency of the cooler.

The most reseaonable solution is a new radiator and add a 70264 in series, but its your truck. The guys who have done this correctly have dual coolers and temp gauge and even added fans to the coolers for low speed cooling. By the time you do it the correct way, you have spent way more money than just buying a new radiator which will outlast you on the truck.

This thread pretty much covers all the issues, with a little humor, terror and suspense to keep it interesting.

To Bypass or Not
 
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when will the madness stop...
 

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vagina whisperer said:
The 70264 is only rated at 14,400 btu's, so not much difference. I installed the 70268 (bypassing the stock cooler) and am very happy with the results.
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Yeah, the rated heat rejection of those 2 are not far apart, so either one is fine. And I don't think you need 2 to keep your tranny cool. The vast majority of people here from all parts of the country run only 1 and don't experience overheating. I think a number of them tow as well and haven't overheated with just 1.

I personally am running the 70268 and have never had my temps go above about 202°. I'm in Boston so it doesn't get super hot, but I have been stuck in traffic in 95° weather, which is kind of the worst case other than towing or off roading. When the car is moving and getting air flow through the cooler, it is pretty consistent. My ATF is always lower temp than my engine temp.
 
I was always planning on replacing the radiator along with adding the cooler, but I don't want the radiator to have any part of the transmission cooling. It sounds like the 70264 or the 70268 would be almost equally valid choices. Also someone mentioned placing it in front of the A/C condenser, I'm guessing this is where it's typically mounted?

Also how difficult is it to install an actual gauge for transmission temperature? I had originally just planned on getting a bluetooth OBD device and getting my info from my smart phone, but if installing a gauge is not that difficult I may opt for that method instead.
 
The OP lives in Colorado Springs at an altitude of 6,000 feet above sea level and I would suspect its a fairly hilly terrain. Considering the air is thinner up there than in Boston MA @ 9 feet above sea level, it would be wise to compare apples to apples and overcompensate for the differential in cooling efficiency.

Good to see the gang of 7 is still out there. ;) Did tbst finally buy a prius? I miss his insight. He kinda reminds me of Wolowitz in the Big Bank Theory.

Here is a thread which I believe has good info on installing a gauge but you'll have to read thru it.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/85197-ripcords-2002-4runner-build-photo-timeline-11.html
 
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I appreciate the shutout Doc.

I must say though, I think a new radiator and 70264 in series is a bit over kill, as is double 70264s. I have the radiator and 70268 (not much different I know). Went to denver last weekend and was, IMO, running the trans too cold the entire time. I may take out my external cooler for the winter months if its gonna be in that temp range.

Keep in mind I was using the trans temp feature on the scangauge and cross referencing it with the analog gauge, they were always fairly close. On the highway i was seeing temps of around 115-125 (got up to 160's on the hills) and in the city I was seeing 140's.

Im not sure where you live or how often you tow, but I can only see a few instances where you would need that much cooling
 
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4-Ripcord said:
I appreciate the shutout Doc.

I must say though, I think a new radiator and 70264 in series is a bit over kill, as is double 70264s. I have the radiator and 70268 (not much different I know). Went to denver last weekend and was, IMO, running the trans too cold the entire time. I may take out my external cooler for the winter months if its gonna be in that temp range.

Keep in mind I was using the trans temp feature on the scangauge and cross referencing it with the analog gauge, they were always fairly close. On the highway i was seeing temps of around 115-125 (got up to 160's on the hills) and in the city I was seeing 140's.

Im not sure where you live or how often you tow, but I can only see a few instances where
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Good point, I've heard of folks blocking off part of their cooler over the winter months to raise the temperature, but I don't know what exactly they're using to cover it up...a piece of wood or cardboard? I also don't know how they're getting the cover in, I'd hate to have to remove the grille every time the seasons change...
 
Drcoffee said:
The OP lives in Colorado Springs at an altitude of 6,000 feet above sea level and I would suspect its a fairly hilly terrain. Considering the air is thinner up there than in Boston MA @ 9 feet above sea level, it would be wise to compare apples to apples and overcompensate for the differential in cooling efficiency.

Good to see the gang of 7 is still out there. ;) Did tbst finally buy a prius? I miss his insight. He kinda reminds me of Wolowitz in the Big Bank Theory.

Here is a thread which I believe has good info on installing a gauge but you'll have to read thru it.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/85197-ripcords-2002-4runner-build-photo-timeline-11.html
Click to expand...

Well, I spent most of my life in CO, so I understand the differences between here and there, and alot of the guys that have installed the B&M's are from CO, so there are plenty of data points from there. There are lots more from CA, OR, and WA where it is also mountainous and higher altitude. Apart from my admittedly anecdotal evidence, it is still completely unfounded to claim that 1 B&M cooler will be insufficient.

And seriously, why are you trolling with your "gang of 7" crap. Leave that in the past, don't bring it here.

dbsoundman - Honestly, when you include the gauge, temp sensor, and your time and effort, you are probably looking at not much monetary advantage to installing a separate ATF gauge versus buying an SGII or even cheaper, an ODB2 reader and an android app. Just decide what functionality you really want and get the cheapest solution.

AS far as the cooler itself, you are pretty safe going with either of the B&M's. They both have an excellent track record on our 4runners. Don't stress about which you choose; the reality is you probably won't notice the difference either way.
 
Either one is fine, as others have lamented on this thread. The reason I went with the 70264 I towed with my 4runner at that time.
 
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