Best kit for sagging rear on a 2nd gen 4Runner?

What's the best option for the "nicest ride"???


I have 4 crawler upper ball joint spacers 1.5" and OME 901 rear springs. The cool thing about this way is that you can turn down the front torsion bars a lot and soften up the ride in the front dramatically. The rear stiffens up a bit but I have no overall complaints. You can generally use stock shocks as well to my knowledge since it's only adding like 1.5" of overall lift. (I used procomp shocks but finding the right eyelet sizes were a pain) Then 33" tires are also possible. All in you're less than $500 for springs ($180) spacers ($100?) and shocks ($200 for mid grade). Enough left over for 4crawler's panhard correction bracket if desired.

One note if you go with front ball joint spacers is to get some taller bump stops for front droop. This prevents binding of axles when at full droop. Didn't take much for me. Only needed like 1/2" taller bump stops. Like $15 or something. Cheap insurance.
4c626eb7d16d8c44926760b0a57dcb82.jpg


I like my ride quality. Even with heavy duty rear springs it isn't too stiff at all and I know I can load the piss out of it if I need to.

These are 32" tires but I'm fairly certain 33" would fit as I ran 32" prior to the "lift" for years.
0185a5c1ed3b92fe12451742a7620e6e.jpg
 
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Nice, thanks man! Think I might get the ome springs for the back with arb torsion bars and some bilstein shocks, but we'll see based on responses here and some more research.
 
Hoping to do moog cc255 springs and bilstein 4600’s soon. New to t4r’s and working on my own truck.

When I pull out these 25yearold bolts should I apply some grease before putting them back in?
 
I have 4 crawler upper ball joint spacers 1.5" and OME 901 rear springs. The cool thing about this way is that you can turn down the front torsion bars a lot and soften up the ride in the front dramatically. The rear stiffens up a bit but I have no overall complaints. You can generally use stock shocks as well to my knowledge since it's only adding like 1.5" of overall lift. (I used procomp shocks but finding the right eyelet sizes were a pain) Then 33" tires are also possible. All in you're less than $500 for springs ($180) spacers ($100?) and shocks ($200 for mid grade). Enough left over for 4crawler's panhard correction bracket if desired.

One note if you go with front ball joint spacers is to get some taller bump stops for front droop. This prevents binding of axles when at full droop. Didn't take much for me. Only needed like 1/2" taller bump stops. Like $15 or something. Cheap insurance.
4c626eb7d16d8c44926760b0a57dcb82.jpg


I like my ride quality. Even with heavy duty rear springs it isn't too stiff at all and I know I can load the piss out of it if I need to.

These are 32" tires but I'm fairly certain 33" would fit as I ran 32" prior to the "lift" for years.
0185a5c1ed3b92fe12451742a7620e6e.jpg


sick ride man! tell me where you sourced your taller bumpstops, bonus points for part numbers! off-topic - where is your build thread?
 
sick ride man! tell me where you sourced your taller bumpstops, bonus points for part numbers! off-topic - where is your build thread?


Hey thanks. Part number is 9-9103g from energy suspension. Plug the number into google and you'll find tons of buying options. EBay for example is like $10-12 or something.

I never thought to make a build thread to be honest. Didn't seem like there was much interest. Plus by the time I joined T4R.org I had already done the 3.4 & manual swap on my own like 5 years prior and that has been the biggest thing I've done. Everything else (sliders, roof rack lighting system, suspension upgrades etc) just seems so minor compared to that project. It's my first ever vehicle dating way back to 2004 when I was 17 so there are tons of undocumented "mods" I wish I could share. Maybe after the holidays I'll spark up a build thread.
 
Just did the MOOG spring replacement now I have a level 95! Took about an hour and half...the first side was about an hour and fifteen minutes the second side was about 15...once you I figured out the trick it's super easy.
 
My 4R has a case of Old Man Ass

Thanks for resurrecting this thread!

We all droop with age and the 1991 4R I just scored is no different. Being a bit of a dummy who hasn't even received the filthy, dog-eared Chilton I ordered off eBay yet, I could use any remedial information.....

What failed/wore out that causes this phenomenon? Springs?

What is the most straight-forward fix to consider first?



Thanks!!
 
OME 901's did mine just fine. Like $175 or so and they aren't too stiff in my opinion at all. Load the truck up and it drops like 1/2".

1- 1/2" upper ball joint spacers in front and the torsion bars can be turned down for a much softer ride while retaining a level truck. CV's will suffer a bit but overall I love my setup for what it is.
 
Just ordered the Moogs for my '92, after knowing about and having the rear sag for much too long. Amazon and Rock Auto have them for just under $60. Part cc255 (not part cc 225 (for a VW) that was in a link on page 5). If this is all it takes, for a 4runner that doesn't need extra lift (already gained an inch all around with 265/70R17's) and doesn't regularly haul or tow huge loads, then it's well worth it.

Incidentally new rear springs are likely also needed on our '06 Sienna. It doesn't have as noticeable sag when unloaded (the old 4runner sags noticeably all the time, loaded or not), but it's time, and we hit more issues now that we've added a hitch for a bike rack that can scrape easily even without the rack on or loaded down for a trip.
 
Does anyone know what the bar diameter is on stock rear coils from a 1995 4WD? Trying to get rid of the saggy butt so I bought some MOOGs hoping they would help. Just got them and the bar diameter is the same that I currently have. PO put KYB shocks on and not sure if he put aftermarket coils. Just don’t know if the MOOGs will help. Sorry for posting in an old thread. For some reason I am not able to start a new one.
 
The only real way I could tell stock vs MOOG springs on mine was the top coil. On OEM the upper most coil bar flattens out to being actually flat. MOOG the bar is still round on the top but the coil get a little tighter to make it sort of flat.

Here are my old stock OEM coils. Notice how the very top coil the bar flattens out? Yeah the MOOGS are round the entire way up.
5b4c4d416677eb5c8a5165a87688b4b0.jpg


Probably impossible to see without taking out the spring. I would recommend Old Man Emu springs. The MOOG only gained me like 1" at most and still didn't level it. Here is the Old Man Emu Springs compared to Stock Coils COMBINED with 2" spacer

Stock on left.
b2b322b606e2c278264d27ed01f77fbe.jpg
 
Thanks for the info 4Reak. I will pull a spring out this weekend and take a look at it. Hoping the MOOG’s will work. Might not get it completely level but can’t afford to get OME springs right now.
 
Thanks for the info 4Reak. I will pull a spring out this weekend and take a look at it. Hoping the MOOG’s will work. Might not get it completely level but can’t afford to get OME springs right now.


Yeah I understand that!

I also have those 2" spacers pictured above if you're interested in trying them at some point. They fit on the stock springs but not really on the MOOG ones because of the lack of flatness. Since you're somewhat nearby shipping wouldn't be outrageous. Keep me posted how it all works out.
 
That may be a better option anyway if they will work with the springs I have. I could probably return the MOOG’s. What would you let the spacers go for?
 
If I were you, before you return anything see if your current springs are flat or round. If they're flat, they're stock and I'll gladly send you my spacers for like $30 or something, shipping included.

Now, if you find out your current springs are ROUND on top, it means they likely are not stock and the spacers won't work. However, I do still have my stock springs as well. So, at worst case you could buy my old stock springs and spacers as a set and put those in. Does that make sense? Now shipping the springs included will be more money because the box is bigger.

I'm not trying to make any money off you, I honestly just want the springs out of my garage. So take a look at current springs and let's go from there. Does that make sense?
 

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