Best place to purchase good parts?

2soon4hoon

New member
I am in need of replacing my whole brake system.. (i dont want to talk about it). Anyway I am looking for a place and recommendation on brand if possible. I looked at RockAuto.com and see there are several brands with a range of prices. I dont want to jump at the cheapest but if I could avoid buying all the most expensive it would help immensely. I will need a Master cylinder, both front calipers and both rubber lines, rear rubber line, and both rear brake cylinders. I know how smart you guys are so maybe we can just agree that we all know what happened. Its been diagnosed and now I just need to get it fixed. Thanks again for all your help. :Cry:
 
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My experience with rock auto is it looks like a good deal and then I get f- d on shipping.

People will say go OEM since the originals lasted this long. Others will say Amazon. I agree with both. But if you're doing your own work, there is something to be said for parts stores nearby, with good customer service and warranties. I still use Orielly for stuff all the time. I went Amazon for my radiator and saved some money, but don't forget about local places.
 
Thanks guys. O'Reilly's prices are just about the same as everyone else minus the shipping. The hoses they sell are Universal and come in many lengths, so I guess I just need to measure mine to make sure I get ones long enough. I will also be flushing the whole system out and have heard that fresh brake fluid is the best bet over other things like denatured alcohol because it will not contaminate my system again in the future.

So... full flush then replace master cylinder first, then front rubber lines, then calipers, then rear rubber line, then rear wheel cylinders followed by a full fill/bleed and I should be OK? If anyone can think of another rubber part in the system that I missed Id love to hear about it before I do this. Is there a proportioning valve in the system anywhere?
 
Today I picked up a master cylinder w/reservoir and rubber cap, front R and L calipers, brake pads, front r and L hydraulic hoses, rear hydraulic hose, two rear wheel cylinders, and two huge bottles of dot 3 brake fluid. Toyota said there is a proportioning valve in the system but there are no rubber parts in it so I guess I've got everything.

Id love to hear the order of the steps you guys would replace things to ensure no contamination will occur.
 
Rock auto for sure. They say 3-5 business days for shipping but parts always arrived for me in 2. T4r discount. Some of the best prices around and also they carry some parts manufactured in the same factories as oem parts. I bought some B&A ball joints for my gen 2 and they were clones of my oem ball joints. Only difference was the rubber boot! :cheers:
 
If you can set up a vacuum bleed it will make your life way easier. Suck all the old fluid outta the reservoir first. Empty out the system then put all your new parts in it shouldn't matter what order. Vacuum bleed it again (make sure to keep the res full), and then do a normal bleed with a friend.
 
You can always Google up a ra discount code just like harbor freight coupons. The key to ra is to only buy from the same warehouse. I just ordered parts for a Camry I'm working on. Sure the shipping is high but these are extreme duty rotors and ceramic pads. Easily half box store auto parts. I check my Advance account. Amazon is good and ebay. It's all about finding the best part for the money and how much time you are willing to invest toward that goal!

1991 TOYOTA CAMRY 2.0L L4
AIMCO 3286 (3286:P) Rotor
Wholesaler Closeout - Private Label Pkg. - 30 Day Warranty $ 15.03 $ 0.00 2 $ 30.06
BENDIX 142244 Lug Stud
Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty $ 0.59 $ 0.00 5 $ 2.95
REPLEX AUTOMOTIVE SSD356EX (SSD356EX:P) Brake Pad
Wholesaler Closeout - Private Label Pkg. - 30 Day Warranty $ 6.50 $ 0.00 1 $ 6.50
Discount $ -1.98
Shipping Ground $ 26.68
Order
 
Hi guys. I have been absent for a few days due to my Grandma passing and because I have been working on my truck all day long. So here we go. Sorry its gonna be a long post.

Turkey basted the old master cylinder and pulled it. Removed every flexible hose from the system as well as calipers, small hard lines and t connectors when able. Removed both wheel cylinders, and the proportioning valve. Rebuilt rear brakes with new pads and cleaned all old parts. Sprayed brake cleaner through all hard lines until only cleaner ran out. Blew compressed air through all hard lines until no moisture was present. sprayed cleaner through all t connectors and proportioning valve followed with compressed air to make sure they were dry as well. Replaced all new flexible hoses, wheel cylinders, both calipers, front brake pads, front hoses, and new master cylinder. Did not bench bleed anything because I didn't know how to. Buddy bled the shit out of the system starting first at the right rear then left rear then right front then left front wheel. Then repeated the same procedure again. went through almost two full large bottles of brake fluid. Jumped in and my brakes are non existent just like before. Pedal gets soft immediately and goes to the floor. It will eventually stop the truck but at a slow speed it would take forever to do it. Absolutely not safe to drive. emergency brake pulls way out too. Thought that with new pads on the back it wouldn't pull out as much as it used to.

I am 1000% that we got everything hooked up correctly and that there is no way we could have recontaminated the system. (yes I am doing all this because power steering fluid was added to my brake system). What the hell am I missing? Did we just not get all the air out from the system? Wouldn't my brakes be slightly better even if we didn't?

The only two other things I can say is that (1) when my brakes began to fail in the first place there were two separate occasions that I jumped in my truck and when I first pushed the brake pedal I heard what sounded like a spring stretching across something and popping from under the dash. And (2) for a few weeks my pedal would go from super firm to super soft and back often within the same trip to the store. I also have noticed that when I pump the brakes my idle gets very erratic and almost dies leading me to wonder if the booster has failed. I am assuming there is some kind of problem with vacuum somewhere to make my idle so screwy. HELP!
 

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