I am new to this forum but have been following it for quite some time now and have really found it to be informative. I am current owner of 03 4runner Limited 4wd and I am thinking of trading it in for a 5th gen Limited 4wd. I am thinking about pulling the trigger soon as I am trying to get a leftover '10, as there seems to be quite a number in my region. I am thinking about offering 6k under msrp. Does this seem reasonable? Are there any buyers out there getting better deals on a '10 at this point? Any advice or suggestions would be helpful!!
Best price of 2010 4Runner
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You need to make your target price relative to invoice, e.g., $1000 below invoice, etc. A blanket $6K off MSRP is artbitrary and not defendable. You'll spend less time haggling if you can refine your approach. Lots of posts on pricing and links to web resources to help you.
Dispense
New member
I just picked up a 2010 Trail Edition with KDSS and Nav plus additional options which MSRP'd for 42K. I bought her for 37K. That's pretty close to dealer cost. I had no problem getting 5K under MSRP though, they agreed immediately. ( I used USAA's car buying service for a quote and this dealer said they'd match it) Whether you use MSRP or invoice, just be sure you know their relation to each other.
Most of these dealers are really starting to look at getting rid of their 2010s. Good time to buy I think! Just look out for the soft demos that the manager has been driving for several months and +1500 miles.... Found a few of them..
Most of these dealers are really starting to look at getting rid of their 2010s. Good time to buy I think! Just look out for the soft demos that the manager has been driving for several months and +1500 miles.... Found a few of them..
Rafael
New member
"Best Price"
Getting a "best price" is really all relative to various factors including but not limited to: supply and demand, year of the truck (buying a 2010 once the 2011's are out will obviously be favorable as the dealers want to move the "older inventory" ), dealer size, how long the truck has been on the lot, ect. Adding to that , the more options that a car has, the higher the MSRP will be and thus the more profit the dealer can have built into the difference between their cost and the MSRP of those options. So how can you get a good price? My first advice would be to obviously shop around. As I've always told people, "you don't know if you're getting a good deal, until you compare it." Aside from that, your first bet would be to get the invoice price on the vehicle and the options that it has. Use the invoice prices as your guide. I usually start from their invoice with the invoice of the base vehicle, the options, and destination. Next, make sure that they know you're not paying for the holdback which they are charging you (usually 2-3% of MSRP). Sure they'll tell you that this is their "cost" which initially it is, but that amount is reimbursed from Toyota ever so often depending on the dealer. So, not only are they getting it back, they're charging you for it (double dipping). There is also a "financial reserve" that is set aside for people who default on loans or pay their loans earlier than the stated period, don't pay for this either. They also include a full tank of gas, but usually the invoice denotes an amount which the dealer is charged for it, I usually pay for this since in my case it was $13 and it made them "feel" as if I was being reasonable. They usually also charge you for "advertising." I usually negotiate about half of this to them (up to you if you want to negotiate it all) because Toyota also gives them some of it back. Well i've said more than I thought I would have, aside from this there are a few more places that a dealer makes its money, through F&I, from Toyota, through banks ( loans and their "rates"), with their "flooring," ect. Through my experience (won't get into details, but just know that I know dealers pretty well), I know a lot of things that dealers won't tell you ever, having said that, at the end of the day they do need to keep their lights on, but they manage to do so by taking advantage of a lot of people. I usually help family and friends when buying a car because there are some nasty people out there.:repuke:
Hopefully this has been of help, if you have any other questions, PM me and I'll answer any further questions.
Getting a "best price" is really all relative to various factors including but not limited to: supply and demand, year of the truck (buying a 2010 once the 2011's are out will obviously be favorable as the dealers want to move the "older inventory" ), dealer size, how long the truck has been on the lot, ect. Adding to that , the more options that a car has, the higher the MSRP will be and thus the more profit the dealer can have built into the difference between their cost and the MSRP of those options. So how can you get a good price? My first advice would be to obviously shop around. As I've always told people, "you don't know if you're getting a good deal, until you compare it." Aside from that, your first bet would be to get the invoice price on the vehicle and the options that it has. Use the invoice prices as your guide. I usually start from their invoice with the invoice of the base vehicle, the options, and destination. Next, make sure that they know you're not paying for the holdback which they are charging you (usually 2-3% of MSRP). Sure they'll tell you that this is their "cost" which initially it is, but that amount is reimbursed from Toyota ever so often depending on the dealer. So, not only are they getting it back, they're charging you for it (double dipping). There is also a "financial reserve" that is set aside for people who default on loans or pay their loans earlier than the stated period, don't pay for this either. They also include a full tank of gas, but usually the invoice denotes an amount which the dealer is charged for it, I usually pay for this since in my case it was $13 and it made them "feel" as if I was being reasonable. They usually also charge you for "advertising." I usually negotiate about half of this to them (up to you if you want to negotiate it all) because Toyota also gives them some of it back. Well i've said more than I thought I would have, aside from this there are a few more places that a dealer makes its money, through F&I, from Toyota, through banks ( loans and their "rates"), with their "flooring," ect. Through my experience (won't get into details, but just know that I know dealers pretty well), I know a lot of things that dealers won't tell you ever, having said that, at the end of the day they do need to keep their lights on, but they manage to do so by taking advantage of a lot of people. I usually help family and friends when buying a car because there are some nasty people out there.:repuke:
Hopefully this has been of help, if you have any other questions, PM me and I'll answer any further questions.
As someone else said it is all relative, and dependent on location, availability, demand, how much you have to put down, your patience level, how much of a hurry your in, etc...etc..
My 2011 TE with KDSS and NAV had a sticker of 40,989.00 I just looked up my paper work and see that the price I paid was 38278.00..BJS auto buying club puts this vehicles invoice at 36,757.00, so I paid about $1500.00 over invoice, and probably about $500.00 more than I should have.
Not the best price, BUT:
a) this was the ONLY TE 4runner this dealer had, there were no others within at least 200 miles of me
b) It was the exact color (black) and model I wanted
c) I was in somewhat of a hurry to find a vehicle as the engine in my 03 4runner had blown at 176k miles.
If I had been more patient, and not under pressure to find a vehicle so quickly I am sure I could have gotten a little bit of a better deal, but considering that this vecicle will last me a good 7-10 years (or 200k which is what I seem to get out of toyotas), Im not going to worry about $500.00..
I was also at my dealer today for my first (1k) oil change...They had no 2010s in stock.
My 2011 TE with KDSS and NAV had a sticker of 40,989.00 I just looked up my paper work and see that the price I paid was 38278.00..BJS auto buying club puts this vehicles invoice at 36,757.00, so I paid about $1500.00 over invoice, and probably about $500.00 more than I should have.
Not the best price, BUT:
a) this was the ONLY TE 4runner this dealer had, there were no others within at least 200 miles of me
b) It was the exact color (black) and model I wanted
c) I was in somewhat of a hurry to find a vehicle as the engine in my 03 4runner had blown at 176k miles.
If I had been more patient, and not under pressure to find a vehicle so quickly I am sure I could have gotten a little bit of a better deal, but considering that this vecicle will last me a good 7-10 years (or 200k which is what I seem to get out of toyotas), Im not going to worry about $500.00..
I was also at my dealer today for my first (1k) oil change...They had no 2010s in stock.
I just traded my 2004 4-runner in on a 2011. If you do decide to trade, there can be a big difference in what dealerships will offer you for the trade. Also, there can be a big difference if the dealer has the truck you want in stock. Personally, I did not see any savings buying a 2010 verses a 2011 if they have it in stock. I compared out the door price including the trades, since that is what it will really cost you. Others in this forum, perfer to compare envoice price. If I would have done that, I would have not got the lowest total price. Your call there.
Thanks for all the insight. There are a few 2010 Ltd's still out there near where I live. I am just going to make a weekend out of going to 2-3 dealers with my trade and compare out the door prices.
I am also going to explore the option of ordering a Sr5 with convenience and premium. Apparently you cannot get that combo in the Southeast and none are available on toyota.com for around this area. Just curious to see how much of a discount a dealer will give since it may have to be ordered. If not much of a discount, I'll just go for the limited.
Thanks for all the help, hopefully I'll make a decision soon1
I am also going to explore the option of ordering a Sr5 with convenience and premium. Apparently you cannot get that combo in the Southeast and none are available on toyota.com for around this area. Just curious to see how much of a discount a dealer will give since it may have to be ordered. If not much of a discount, I'll just go for the limited.
Thanks for all the help, hopefully I'll make a decision soon1
I'm looking at a 2011 SR5. I used consumer reports and cars.overstock.com to give me the MSRP and invoice price. With the options, the MSRP is approx. $35,973 and they will sell it to me for $300 under invoice at $32,573 + $499 dealer handling. Went in yesterday and they said they'd go $600 under invoice bc i told them another dealer was offering $500 under. According to cars.overstock.com, dealer cost is only $30 under the price they are now quoting me, $32,273.
Seems like a great deal to me...lower is always better tho, any thoughts/input is appreciated !
*Btw sorry to hijack a thread for 2010 pricing, just didn't want to start my own and was curious on 4Runner owners thoughts*
Seems like a great deal to me...lower is always better tho, any thoughts/input is appreciated !
*Btw sorry to hijack a thread for 2010 pricing, just didn't want to start my own and was curious on 4Runner owners thoughts*
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ahh..now i understand...damn...
http://www.car-buying-strategies.com/car-buying.html
http://www.car-buying-strategies.com/car-buying.html
Bearshrimp
New member
One caveat to the “don’t trade-it, sell it” point of view is that if you live in a state with sales taxes (here in Washington its 8.8%) it may be worth trading in a car that has a significant value. Under basic tax principals you can’t be taxed twice on the same purchase, so the value of your trade is deducted from the amount of the new car purchase price subject to sales tax.
For example, I have a 2007 Minivan to trade in and the dealer offered me $19,000 in trade. Going on Craig’s list I see that I could probably ask $24,000 for the van (that’s what the dealers would sell it for) or (more realistically) $21,000 which is what private parties are selling the van for.
So, the dealer trade offer is about $2,000 less than what I could sell it for on my own. Well the value of the tax savings I get from trading in the van is $19,000 x .088 or $1,672 so really I am losing out on maybe $400 in value? Personally the inconvenience of selling the car is not worth the $400 so I am going to trade that sucker for sure.
