best rear coils for towing ?

[MENTION=1709]thinkCooper[/MENTION] that's a good point. The smaller lines definitely minimize the effect. I was running 3/8" and larger on my setups, so it would be much worse than the smaller(1/8" & 1/4" are typical for load assist) lines.
 
+1 on 906's...

I tow my 5x8 enclosed with two race bikes in it couple times a year. Level squat and pulls smooth. 1999 4runner sr5

Stock wheel/tires. Billy 4600's all the way around.
 
906

I believe the 906 is actually a stiffer spring than the 890 - and I think the 891, so probably well-suited for towing.
 
[MENTION=1709]thinkCooper[/MENTION] that's a good point. The smaller lines definitely minimize the effect. I was running 3/8" and larger on my setups, so it would be much worse than the smaller(1/8" & 1/4" are typical for load assist) lines.

I'd dig a tee tube setup for filling using ball-check valves with even pressure side to side and a separate deflate circuit.
 
Interesting to read. I'm running an airbag set-up in our rig, with a T. I can't say as though I've experienced first hand that body roll issue, and we do drive on a very twisty highway (CA 17 between Los Gatos and Santa Cruz) at the start and end of every camping trip. Big sur is a regular destination for us too, as well as Fremont Peak (which is a super steep goat trial of a twisty road). The flow of air in the connector tube is pretty restricted by the small diameter of the tube. I'd imagine that flow between bags could indeed hapen, I just can't say as though it would happen fast enough to induce oscillation. That said - if there's some data out there to show that it indeed does occur, I'd update our system to separate valves and lines.



What I can definatively share is that use of a weight distribution hitch, and proper F/R loading of our trailer makes a very noticeable difference. We tow a 3500 pound rPod trailer fairly regularly with a 2000 SR5 manual rig. The WDH with a tongue heavy load makes huge improvments.



That is exactly why I bought my 4Runner a few months ago. The plan is to upgrade to a r-pod 179 or 180!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I can't help with coil selection, however, I wanted to address this suggestion.
I would highly advise NOT T'ing air springs. Putting the "air bags" in one circuit will completely induce body roll, causing potentially dangerous situations- especially while towing.
When cornering- or reacting to someone else's careless driving- the suspension is loaded on the outside tire(suspension/airbag/etc). If the air is in one circuit, it will push the air to the inside tire/bag, inducing body roll.
It's essentially adding a sway bar; not an ANTI-sway bay, a SWAY bar!
I hope that makes sense, and I hope anyone who has T'd their air helpers will seriously consider changing that. I promise handling will improve, and it will also be safer.

this is my experience also, i once drove 4 hours away to buy a s10 on bags and the bags were t'd. that was the scariest drive ive ever done. every single turn felt like i would flip. if i aired up all the way it would help since all the space was taken up by air. of course this is amplified xhunnid since that air bag was also taking place of the coil.
 
Haha No, it's actually not like that at all. I'm not saying you won't be able to drive across the country several times without crashing; I'm saying your handling will improve drastically if you separate them. Hence why the airbag helper kits come with two separate circuits.
I have quite a bit of experience with air bag suspension, and have had setups configured both ways. I speak from years of experience when I say your handling will improve drastically.
Everyone has the freedom to do whatever they wish, but having them separate is definitely the right way [emoji1360]

You're absolutely correct Tyler. Air suspension when installed with a "T" inline isn't going to make you crash and die, but it will degrade handling . Air suspension with independent feed lines will actually IMPROVE handling.

I put air shocks on an old RWD Volvo I used frequently for towing -- and I didn't "t" the line for exactly the reason you state. I installed that air suspension so the rear didn't sag when towing. But after installing it, I was pleasantly surprised to notice an improvement in body lean the first time I took on on-ramp on the highway -- the car just stayed flat.

We have anti-sway bars on vehicles to mitigate body roll. If you put a "T" in an air suspension, you're willingly installing and anti-anti-sway device. Why would anyone do that?
 
Last edited:
Interesting to read. I'm running an airbag set-up in our rig, with a T. I can't say as though I've experienced first hand that body roll issue, and we do drive on a very twisty highway (CA 17 between Los Gatos and Santa Cruz) at the start and end of every camping trip. Big sur is a regular destination for us too, as well as Fremont Peak (which is a super steep goat trial of a twisty road). The flow of air in the connector tube is pretty restricted by the small diameter of the tube. I'd imagine that flow between bags could indeed hapen, I just can't say as though it would happen fast enough to induce oscillation. That said - if there's some data out there to show that it indeed does occur, I'd update our system to separate valves and lines.

What I can definatively share is that use of a weight distribution hitch, and proper F/R loading of our trailer makes a very noticeable difference. We tow a 3500 pound rPod trailer fairly regularly with a 2000 SR5 manual rig. The WDH with a tongue heavy load makes huge improvments.

Are you running stock coils ?
 
Are you running stock coils ?

Yes, stock coils and the air bags. At the time my wife used the 4runner as her daily driver and she didn't want a stiffer ride from a spring swap. We just got her a new Lexus fsport crossover so the truck is now transitioning into more of a play truck, so I might end up switching to stiffer springs.
 
Last edited:
Been using 906s since 2009 on my 99, easily the best spring to use for towing IMHO. The ride unloaded can be a little harsh, especially using Billy HDs as I use in the rear. And they don't offer as much flex as all the other options (I had a pair of 891s that rode better but didn't handle a load as well).
 
Been using 906s since 2009 on my 99, easily the best spring to use for towing IMHO. The ride unloaded can be a little harsh, especially using Billy HDs as I use in the rear. And they don't offer as much flex as all the other options (I had a pair of 891s that rode better but didn't handle a load as well).

I am worried about the harsh ride of the 906s. I like the ride height of the 890s,but heard they squat under light loads. The 891s provide more lift than I want. Search of the perfect coil. Too many options or not enough.:redbrick:
 
I am worried about the harsh ride of the 906s.

Not to talk a person into something they'd regret, but I have never once thought the 906s and billy 4600s to be too rough in the rear.

I find the 99 talls and 4600s to be too stiff in the front but that's another matter!
 
It's the ride while not loaded that would be the concern.

The 906's do not ride rough in my opinion. Now, my lowered 90 civic with 500lb Eibach/Koni combo is bone jarring. I have been in the back when I was not in a condition to drive and it was fine. Actually I was surprised! If there would have been a complaint it would be from my 11yr old son. That's his domain.lol
 
The 906's do not ride rough in my opinion. Now, my lowered 90 civic with 500lb Eibach/Koni combo is bone jarring. I have been in the back when I was not in a condition to drive and it was fine. Actually I was surprised! If there would have been a complaint it would be from my 11yr old son. That's his domain.lol

Yeah my Focus used to be hammered on coilovers and even that wasn't too terrible. I feel like not much can rattle my cage ride-wise after driving that thing around for a few summers.
 
I also read until my eyes bled and this week went with 906/880 setup. My reasoning after speaking with ARB tech was the 906 are made to hold a constant 350lb load without depressing. Both 906 and 890 give same 2'' lift. Tech insisted all I needed was the 890's and that 906's would be stiffer. He also said I needed to buy their shocks/struts and Billy's would over extend ( not true).

I tow a fair amount both boat and enclosed trailer so I couldn't bear the idea of any sag when towing and took my chances. Paired with 4600/hd bilsteins I couldn't be happier. ride is fine, it's a truck. If I decide I need more lift in the back I'll install 5100's but after towing a trailer today I'm completely satisfied and made the right decision. Either will work -906's are fine and also necessary if you regularly carry items or have a steel bumper. Before and after below hope this helps.
f81905ec61fd3ffbadb860d04409118c.jpg
0be505cc9882096a337e84ea839ad24c.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,113
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top