Best rear spring for King shocks with close to factory weight 4runner

chrissurfr

New member
All,

What is the best option for my 4runner with OEM Kings in the rear?

I currently run the toytec 2 inch spring. But, it is way too rough. I think that it might be at the top of the King OEM shock range in terms of height.

Would I be better off with a wheeler t-13 or SAW 1.5?

I hate to lose a half inch of rear lift....but need some different options at this point as the truck feels unbearable driving....

Thanks,
Chris
 
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All,

What is the best option for my 4runner with OEM Kings in the rear?

I currently run the toytec 2 inch spring. But, it is way too rough. I think that it might be at the top of the King OEM shock range in terms of height.

Would I be better off with a wheeler t-13 or SAW 1.5?

I hate to lose a half inch of rear lift....but need some different options at this point as the truck feels unbearable driving....

Thanks,
Chris

Also curious about this. I've seen a bunch of people going with some Dobinsons springs for the rear. Hopefully some people will chime in!
 
Go With Wheeler's T13

I went with the T13's. I'm super happy with them. IMHO, I think it's the perfect combo w/ my King suspension. The Wheeler's T13 rear springs are made by Eibach.
They're much firmer (12% spring increase) than the stock suspension but still have enough give where the King suspension rides like... Well... Like a King.
Love em'

<a href="https://imgur.com/8eK6Xar"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/8eK6Xar.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/xKVxb7Z"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/xKVxb7Z.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
 
This is where I'm completely stumped...how can the t13 with a higher spring rate than the Toytec ride better when mine rides so bad?

Potholes around town are absolutely brutal right now....
 
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I've been searching for an answer to this same question for awhile. My truck came with kings and OME 898's, which are way too stiff and tall since I have no additional weight in the back. I was considering saw 1.5's so I called wheelers to inquire about the t-13 or t-12's. What was strange was they recommended OME 2895E for my setup.

Now I'm even more confused, because I assumed they would steer me towards their own springs, especially because that's what I called about. For reference, I have the 550# coilovers in the front with 8 threads showing and a hidden winch. My front rides like a dream; I'm hoping I can get the same for the rear. I want some rake, but currently have way too much. Hopefully this thread will give some insight so I can finally pull the trigger.
 
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I've been searching for an answer to this same question for awhile. My truck came with kings and OME 898's, which are way too stiff and tall since I have no additional weight in the back. I was considering saw 1.5's so I called wheelers to inquire about the t-13 or t-12's. What was strange was they recommended OME 2895E for my setup.

Now I'm even more confused, because I assumed they would steer me towards their own springs, especially because that's what I called about. For reference, I have the 550# coilovers in the front with 8 threads showing and a hidden winch. My front rides like a dream; I'm hoping I can get the same for the rear. I want some rake, but currently have way too much. Hopefully this thread will give some insight so I can finally pull the trigger.

sounds like we have similar problems.

my fronts are at 10 turns and a still have 1.5 inches of rake towards the front and ride terrible. i just ordered some front shims and plan on ordering 600 lb springs for the front to reduce the preload.

the rear is just unacceptable for a daily driver with no weight. im close to selling the truck if i cant sort this out
 
I have three sandbags in the back to try to help with weight too. But, every low-mid speed hole in the ground I hit is felt with almost a "bang" and then rattling. Which makes me wonder, is 2 inches too much left for the rear shock with the OEM Kings?
 
I have three sandbags in the back to try to help with weight too. But, every low-mid speed hole in the ground I hit is felt with almost a "bang" and then rattling. Which makes me wonder, is 2 inches too much left for the rear shock with the OEM Kings?

My rear is definitely stiff, but not nearly as bad as what you're describing. I haven't measured but my rear is significantly over 2" if that helps. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable than me can chime in
 
It's odd and I'm sorry you're having these issues. Don't give up and sell the T4R. The good news is that rear springs are cheap compared to the rest of the lift. Especially Kings.
I was going to go w/ the Toytecs at first, then I figured I'd go w/ the Icon springs (actually bought them. still new in box).
At the last moment per the suggestion of the shop (RSG in Denver) and some research, I bought the T13's because I didn't want a 2" lift and they said their customers really swore by them.
Worth a try. I can't speak for others but the T13's won't beat you up and you'll enjoy the rear suspension as much as the fronts.
Checked the Wheeler's site. On sale for $159
 
about 1000

Springs do take some time to settle in and feel right. I currently have a set of Dobinsons 2" rear springs that took a trip or two to settle in and smooth out. But it's nowhere near as plush as my dad's GX460 for comparison. Your preload in the front might account for some of the harshness.

Also, have you checked the settings on your compression adjusters, and that they aren't dialed up in "stiffness"? Compression adjusters on the higher end of the setting spectrum would definitely cause a harsher ride with fast impact obstacles (potholes, speed bumps, etc)
 
I have three sandbags in the back to try to help with weight too. But, every low-mid speed hole in the ground I hit is felt with almost a "bang" and then rattling. Which makes me wonder, is 2 inches too much left for the rear shock with the OEM Kings?

I really hate that your having this problem with your ride man, i am running almost identical to what you are with the OME 2" springs in the rear ( i do not know the #) but the shop said it was least tension he had, it did feel just a bit to much at first, and was gonna swap them out. After about 5000 mi. Now i think they are good, i never had the jarring hard hits or rattles that you have, and i bomb over some stuff, and it just sucks it up. I do think i hit the driver side front bump stop once though, but i have new ones coming from The Plastic Guy, so i will see how that goes. Is there someone close to you with a setup like yours you can compare with?
 
Hey Chris,
Can you get someone to check your rear shock nitrogen pressure?

They should be 80psi. If you’ve lost pressure, it would certainly be jarring, and leave a lot up to the spring for road hazards, etc.

Shock should be at full droop when the pressure is checked. A shock gauge with a lossless schrader valve is required
 
Just rebuild your rear shocks real quick and adjust your valving.

It sounds like your rear compression needs be increased. Call King, discuss with them your situation and they will recommend what level to adjust your valving to.

My buddy [MENTION=166797]Arcticelf[/MENTION] and I have adjusting the valving in his rear Kings twice already, it’s super easy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Man I just spent 3 grand on shocks + labor for install. These are marketed as OEM+...getting them revalved after 2 weeks on the car is a tough pill to swallow...that’s gonna cost me at least 2k out of pocket with labor, shipping, etc.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Bilstein also has rear springs now. I think they have 1”, 1.25”and 1.5” all at stock spring rate. I was going to get the 1” but the Eibachs were cheaper.
 

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