chrissurfr
New member
Great news. If they are oem spring rate I’ll def try one. If that doesn’t help, then I’ll revalve (ugh)
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Best rear spring for King shocks with close to factory weight 4runner
- Thread starter chrissurfr
- Start date
Great news. If they are oem spring rate I’ll def try one. If that doesn’t help, then I’ll revalve (ugh)
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MyanRagahis
Member
Sucks you're having these issues. I enjoy the very springs you have. You could try putting on your stock shocks to see if it's really the springs vs your Kings.
MTN4RNR
New member
Shocks should not need to be rebuilt or revalved after 1000 miles when they come from King valved for a stock 4Runner weight.
This is an aggressive route, and there are other things to eliminate before pulling shocks and sending them in for re-valving. If you eliminate everything else and they do need to be re-valved and you are at stock weight, King should take care of the issue under warranty.
Again, what are your compression adjusters set at on all 4 corners?
chrissurfr
New member
I’ve tried all the way soft... a few clicks from soft...halfway in the middle...and full stiff....the issue remains. Potholes below 30mph without additional weight on the truck are pretty embarrassing if someone is in the car
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mrblah
Senior Member
When you raise your vehicle, everything is about compromises, and everyone's idea of comfort is very subjective.
good luck on your quest for a more tolerable spring. I have the toytecs, and am not a fan of them either. I just don't think they are not matched correctly with the kings.
You may want to call kings and see what they recommend, and let us know how it works out for you. i may change springs soon too, but thats mainly due to my vehicle becoming obese.
chrissurfr
New member
I totally understand compromise.
But, I had hoped that by going with the best reviewed products on here that I would have avoided what I’m dealing with. I have a weekend car that is lowered on coilovers that rides better over potholes which just blows my mind.
Step one will be for me to get a 1.5 spring and dump the toytec....maybe 2 inches is too much for the rear. I’m going to call king again tomorrow
I sincerely appreciate all the replies so far.
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MTN4RNR
New member
Thanks for the information. I would suggest that you give things some time to settle in. 2" springs in the rear are more than ok for the 4Runner.
Teamoatmealpie
New member
Curious to know if you tried what I suggested in your other thread, about putting a small dab of grease on the bump stop then drive over a speed bump at 25 or so.
If your bottoming out into the bump stop the grease will smoosh and some will transfer over to the plate too. If your bottoming on the stock/standard Toytec spring with no extra weight and you can't eliminate bottoming out thru increasing compression with the clickers, then you have a shock issue. And as someone mentioned before perhaps the nitro leaked and the shock is collapsing thru the stroke ala bottoming out. If it's doing that then do a pressure check and confirm or eliminate this.
You ought to be able to bomb thru a speed bump let alone a pot hole with out upsetting the chassis.
I've run both the stock Toytec and HD rear springs mated with Toytec Boss shocks. With the stock/standard Toytec springs and no extra weight the ride was plush but firm in the sense the horrible nose dive was gone. Hammer thru a speed bump no problem, and great off road. The HD springs with added weight have also treated me well.
You might hook up with another inmate from here who lives nearby or a local shop and have some one drive your rig who has a lifted 4runner. Plus you could drive there's for comparison.
Don't give up on the truck, it can be fixed and when it's dialed in you'll be back to having fun driving it. Good luck.
If your bottoming out into the bump stop the grease will smoosh and some will transfer over to the plate too. If your bottoming on the stock/standard Toytec spring with no extra weight and you can't eliminate bottoming out thru increasing compression with the clickers, then you have a shock issue. And as someone mentioned before perhaps the nitro leaked and the shock is collapsing thru the stroke ala bottoming out. If it's doing that then do a pressure check and confirm or eliminate this.
You ought to be able to bomb thru a speed bump let alone a pot hole with out upsetting the chassis.
I've run both the stock Toytec and HD rear springs mated with Toytec Boss shocks. With the stock/standard Toytec springs and no extra weight the ride was plush but firm in the sense the horrible nose dive was gone. Hammer thru a speed bump no problem, and great off road. The HD springs with added weight have also treated me well.
You might hook up with another inmate from here who lives nearby or a local shop and have some one drive your rig who has a lifted 4runner. Plus you could drive there's for comparison.
Don't give up on the truck, it can be fixed and when it's dialed in you'll be back to having fun driving it. Good luck.
Shim stacks are $40, and the labor shouldn't be more than $100 per shock. Although shipping and install removal are probably similar. Still shouldn't be 2 grand. However, as several people have said, if this is your problem King screwed up big time building your shocks and you have the wrong part.
That said, check your part number with King and make sure they send you the right thing, should be on the tag that came wired to the shock. Also make sure they charged the shock before shipping.
You can do an easy test of shock pressure by jacking up the back end of the truck, and un-bolting the bottom of the shock from the axle. If you can easily push the shaft back into the shock, there is no pressure and that's your problem. If you have to really work at it, or cant compress the shock by hand, then its properly pressurized.
Assuming you have shock pressure, I'd check the other issues mentioned up thread before jumping to re-valving shocks. For a close to stock weight truck, and close to stock height King has their shit together. The only other thing I'd check is to make sure your problem isn't down travel, that is that your "bang" isn't the suspension bottoming out before it can hit the bottom of the hole you went over.
Once you're sure it's not suspension travel related, then I'd look at shock valving. Down South Motor Sports or Filthy motor sports are the go-to guys for this. King can do it, but they take forever...
06HAOLE
New member
I ran Icon 2” springs in the rear of my last 5th Gen 4-Runner with great results both lift wise and ride quality. Once I added the Icon rear hydro bump kit my rear suspension was like a cloud both on and Offroad.
I initially ran 2.5” King rear shocks but ended up switching to Icon 2.5” rear shocks so that everything matched. However, both rear shocks were paired with the Icon 2” coils with no noticeable difference in ride quality. I was close to stock weight in the rear.
Swapping rear coils to Icon might be something for you to consider.
I initially ran 2.5” King rear shocks but ended up switching to Icon 2.5” rear shocks so that everything matched. However, both rear shocks were paired with the Icon 2” coils with no noticeable difference in ride quality. I was close to stock weight in the rear.
Swapping rear coils to Icon might be something for you to consider.
chrissurfr
New member
update - ordered
-Wheelers t13 springs
-Cornfed .5 inch spacer for the rear
-600 pound king springs for the front
-front shims to reduce lean and need for preload
Thanks again for all the comments and posts!
-Wheelers t13 springs
-Cornfed .5 inch spacer for the rear
-600 pound king springs for the front
-front shims to reduce lean and need for preload
Thanks again for all the comments and posts!
Keep us posted...and pics would be great after the new stance if you're happy with the results. What was the reasoning for heavier springs up front?
chrissurfr
New member
I have 10 threads of preload on the left....too much....need to get rid of some of it
Interested to hear if the heavier king springs make a difference. I’m in a similar boat as you(kings/550# with dobinson 725 springs). I have about 3k miles on them and the ride is still way too firm.
Searching the forums, I’ve read most folks that aren’t happy with the ride of their kings are running the standard 550 springs with 8-10 treads of preload and no auxiliary weight. I’ve been considering going with a 600 or 650lb spring to reduce preload too.
Looking forward to your feedback.
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Searching the forums, I’ve read most folks that aren’t happy with the ride of their kings are running the standard 550 springs with 8-10 treads of preload and no auxiliary weight. I’ve been considering going with a 600 or 650lb spring to reduce preload too.
Looking forward to your feedback.
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mrblah
Senior Member
Do kings even make rear springs??
I always wondered why everyone is running different branded springs in the rear of their kings setup (I myself included).
When I bought my setup, I went with what toytec suggested, and of course, they recommended their own rear springs......... Can't fault them for me not asking the right questions.
I always wondered why everyone is running different branded springs in the rear of their kings setup (I myself included).
When I bought my setup, I went with what toytec suggested, and of course, they recommended their own rear springs......... Can't fault them for me not asking the right questions.
chrissurfr
New member
King does not make rear springs.
I'm just disappointed in the toytec spring because I spent MONTHS researching before buying the lift. Almost everyone on here said it was good and they were happy with it. Why I do not understand. It seems to me like many users (not all) of the forum just give positive reviews of everything to justify their purchase.
codyHTX
Member
I've ran a few different setups in the rear, and there are definitely trade offs with each setup, but a variable rate spring has met my needs:
Bilstein 5100 w/ stock springs & 1" spacers: comfortable/smooth but could not control even 100-200 lbs add'l cargo weight
Bilstein 5100 w/ ToyTec 2" superflex: noticeably stiffer without weight, super comfortable/smooth with 100-200 lbs add'l cargo weight
King w/ Dobinsons 3"+ C677 dual rate springs (157-230lb): seems to provide the pro's of both previous setups. the lower rate provides a comfortable response to bumps/dips/holes and the higher rate provides control and minimal sag with add'l weight and/or towing. I really like this setup, but may be more lift that you desire - the C675 are the same coils just physically shorter and they have a ton of other options for all kinds of scenarios
Bilstein 5100 w/ stock springs & 1" spacers: comfortable/smooth but could not control even 100-200 lbs add'l cargo weight
Bilstein 5100 w/ ToyTec 2" superflex: noticeably stiffer without weight, super comfortable/smooth with 100-200 lbs add'l cargo weight
King w/ Dobinsons 3"+ C677 dual rate springs (157-230lb): seems to provide the pro's of both previous setups. the lower rate provides a comfortable response to bumps/dips/holes and the higher rate provides control and minimal sag with add'l weight and/or towing. I really like this setup, but may be more lift that you desire - the C675 are the same coils just physically shorter and they have a ton of other options for all kinds of scenarios
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It seems like a progressive/variable spring would solve a lot of issues in getting the right performance out of rear suspension. I notice Dobinson has a few, but with a 3" lift, and not for KDSS. Does anyone have a low lift (1-2") rear spring that's progressive for stock or near-stock weight?
