If you buy parts through a shop who does the install they'll typically charge $300-400 for install. If you buy parts online or from somewhere else you're looking at $600-800. They're not going to bend over backwards for you on the install if you just drop off a bunch of parts.
I installed it on my own without ever doing any type of suspension work previously and it turned out fine. Took longer than I wanted but all I'm out is time and money on tools which I get to keep forever.
There are a bunch of good videos on youtube, I followed the Lowrangeoffroad ones very closely and watched as I went along if I ran into a trouble spot
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-7ysiGblyc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxV-CAAfrgg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbsTJgb6S_c
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmr_qz5k2-E&
Beyond the typical tools you need here is what I would suggest
1. Have the top mounts pre-assembled. Don't mess with spring compressors. Watch a few youtube videos of people who **** up with a spring compressor and you'll know enough not to even bother with it. A shop should do this for about $50-$80
2. You don't need impact tools. Your regular sockets and wrenches will work. Ratcheting wrenches makes life easier. Have a 1/2" breaker bar on hand. The lower ball joint bolts were tough and I needed to use the breaker bar in a few situations. Some penetrating oil may help too
3. A few videos said the lower CAM bolt was a 21mm. Mine was a 22 or 23mm (can't remember which exactly) for some reason so have those on hand.
4. 3/8" and 1/2" torque wrenches. You can rent these I believe from Auto-Zone from their rent a tool program. I ended up buying some because I wanted some anyways. There are some areas where the 1/2" one is too big to get to and certain bolts where the 1/2" can't get down to spec enough so have a 3/8" too
5. Always torque back to factory specs so get those number first and re-torque after 100 miles. There are a few diagrams of torque specs on this forum.
6. The rear was harder than I thought. Just make sure you give the brake line extra slack. Loosen up the nut on the axle
7. Have a large set of channel locks or groove joint pliers on hand. When I was taking out the rear shock, while loosening the top nut the shock just kept spinning and spinning. My other pliers were too small to grip around the shock and I couldn't get enough grip by just holding it. Ended up having to walk to Wal-mart at 2AM in the morning to get a set of 2 1/2" channel locks which wasn't very fun. Thankfully they had a large set there and my Wal-mart is only 0.5 miles from me. Still not fun.
8. If able have a buddy help but definitely doable by yourself too
I watched those videos multiple times, read various tips on this forum, and then wrote down instructions on pen and paper each step by step (plus you don't want to look things up on a laptop with greasy hands). That way I did not mess a thing up and yet there were still steps that I needed to adjust/change. This goes along with my nature to be obsessive with researching (which you didn't appreciate my suggestion of doing research prior asking questions), watching instructional videos, and reading what others have done previously. Much better to go in prepared. Hope that helps.
