Best suspension/lift kit for around $1k? (Yes I've researched)

Supa LA

New member
Thanks for input, if given. I do appreciate it. I've been researching and reading up for the last 3 days and my brain has started to scramble. I'm hoping you guys can help me narrow this down.

The details:

-2017 TRD ORP (no KDSS)
-I plan to run a 285/70/17 tire with OEM wheels (for right now)
-Mainly looking for a 2-3" lift
-Need good street mannerisms (its a daily)
-Solid off-road capabilities when needed (a couple times a month, at most)
-basic mud/trail use with some incline, little to no rock crawling
-minimal maintenance, if possible
-looking to keep it at or around a thousand bucks total cost (tires and installation not included)

So, I've been eyeing the OME and Toytec Boss kits, but I'm open to others. This is my first off-road type vehicle and I want to get my feet wet immediately. I've owned the rig for 4 days now, loving it thus far!

Again, thanks for any and all help!




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At $1000 you won't be able to include any shocks that really require maintenance anyways.

Your post just has a bunch of questions, not indicating what you learned from any of your research..

Why don't you list the options in your price range as well as the pro's and con's you found throughout your research? There's a million threads on the topic and I can't really see you learning anything through a new thread that you wouldn't find covered extensively through research already..
 
I'm starting with front coilovers for a thousand. Later in some months probably will go with rear shocks and springs.

Edit:
Reason being I don't want to use spacers and can't really dole out 2k for a full setup just now.
 
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$1000 all in wont get you much really. Make sure you add installation and alignment and you will quickly exceed that mark. You may end up spending $4-600 just for installation and alignment alone. Also, if you plan to go much over 2" it is commonly recommended to replace the UCA.

Honestly, you're driving a $35-40,000 vehicle. I would think twice before going cheap on the suspension. You should probably do a bit more research before making any decision.

You may want to head out in your stock truck and see what you can get into. It may surprise you just how capable it is in the stock form. Then buy components that better match your needs after actually seeing what you will actually face.
 
So, I've been eyeing the OME and Toytec Boss kits, but I'm open to others. This is my first off-road type vehicle and I want to get my feet wet immediately. I've owned the rig for 4 days now, loving it thus far!
k

My advice would be to not do anything yet. Your vehicle is quite capable right from the factory. You don't need to do anything to get started. It'll handle most trails the way it is. Drive it for awhile, do some easy trails, do some harder ones. Figure out what you like about it, what you dont. Its common for a beginner to think "what i need is a lift to go off road" but a lot of times you dont. The lift only gives a moderate increase in clearance. 2 more inches when you already have 10 inches of clearance is nice but not "night and day". Bigger tires are nice but will only add up to about 1 inch of extra clearance but with worse road manners and gas mileage. After doing a little more wheeling you might discover you don't need a lift but rather just want stiffer shocks. Or you may find it more beneficial to spend your money on armour or more aggressive tires.
 
Anything but spacers. They will hurt you in the long run. Its a $40,000 rig, don't go cheap on your suspension. At least go 5100s/6112/5160s or OMEs. A few people on here will tell you that if you are not going to wheel it, you are fine with spacers. DO NOT listen to them.
 
[MENTION=164485]Trixx[/MENTION] It was late at night and i was tired. I could've given a little more info on my research guys, sorry.

So, i know i am not going to use spacers as a lift. I did learn that much. Also, i am torn on the 5100s, because some say theyre great for a beginner's lift, but if you plan on getting into any advanced type of terrain, they're not ideal. However, i'm not quite sure if or when i'll even encounter an "advanced" terrain.

Another thing i found in my research, the rear sits about an inch higher than the front, so staggering your lift/spring rates is ideal to get a level look.

I also found out that i do indeed UCA's if going to a 3" or larger. So, thanks for that, but i had already seen that in my research. Knowing that installation and alignment will run extra is not a big deal, i was merely wanting a kit for around a thousand, not including the install and alignment.

I like the OME kit. At this present moment i'm leaning that way and keeping it at around 2.5" so i don't have to pick up a set of UCA's immediately. I will eventually, just not on the initial lift.

Again, thanks to all who have contributed to my thread!
 
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I run OME and have no issues, its my third 4runner with OME, and i have two tacomas running OME setups. For the cost it does a great job!
 
I would NOT suggest getting an OME kit. They are amazing setups and will take a beating and keep on ticking. They are also designed for a fully loaded 4Runner going off-road. This means when you are empty (I assume is more of the time) you'll have a VERY stiff ride.

I was looking at OME, but Slee Off-Road here (here in Denver) said they wouldn't even suggest it unless I was also installing a full drawer, frig and expedition package. They said the ride is so harsh empty its not even worth doing. Keep in mind some people like that kind of thing. I don't. I had a lift Wrangler JK for 9 years. It road like a tank and I don't want to go back to that.

There is nothing wrong with looking to spend around 1k for a setup. You are not going to get rebuildable custom valved shocks, in reality 99% of the people that buy those don't need them and then get pissed off when they leak and need to be rebuilt.

For example: Dobinsons has some very nice twin-tube nitrogen coilovers that at are non-rebuildable. From what Mike told me on the phone, the rep in the US, their twin-tube long travel kit with medium-ish springs give a great ride quality without being overall stiff. I think he said the entire kit would 8 or 900-ish. There was also an option to have the front coilovers per assembled by them.

The issue will become how high you want to go. What I have learned is at 2.5in or more you want to change the UCAs. 2.5in is where the handling starts to suffer with OEM UCAs. If you are going to replace the UCAs, you are looking at $500 right there.

I also gave myself a headache looking at all the options and came to this .... I don't want rebuildable shocks. I don't want something crazy custom. I don't want 3in of lift. I don't want a harsh ride. I really don't care what the brand is.

What I want is something reliable, easily replaceable, comfortable riding and something that keeps most of the stock parts on my 4Runner.

I was going to get 6112/5160 with OME rear springs, but I'm not so sure any more. I really only want about 2inches of lift, keep the rake and use OEM UCAs.

For me its more important to as much of the truck stock as possible. That means I keep the OEM reliability. When something breaks, and it will, I don't have to try to get custom parts. OEM or OEM-ish parts are way easier to find in the middle of nowhere.

Right now I'm leaning to Dobinsons long travel twin-tube coil overs and rear shocks. Then using +2in springs (standard or moderate load). The long travel shocks have the softest valving.
 
I would NOT suggest getting an OME kit. They are amazing setups and will take a beating and keep on ticking. They are also designed for a fully loaded 4Runner going off-road. This means when you are empty (I assume is more of the time) you'll have a VERY stiff ride.

I was looking at OME, but Slee Off-Road here (here in Denver) said they wouldn't even suggest it unless I was also installing a full drawer, frig and expedition package. They said the ride is so harsh empty its not even worth doing. Keep in mind some people like that kind of thing. I don't. I had a lift Wrangler JK for 9 years. It road like a tank and I don't want to go back to that.

There is nothing wrong with looking to spend around 1k for a setup. You are not going to get rebuildable custom valved shocks, in reality 99% of the people that buy those don't need them and then get pissed off when they leak and need to be rebuilt.

For example: Dobinsons has some very nice twin-tube nitrogen coilovers that at are non-rebuildable. From what Mike told me on the phone, the rep in the US, their twin-tube long travel kit with medium-ish springs give a great ride quality without being overall stiff. I think he said the entire kit would 8 or 900-ish. There was also an option to have the front coilovers per assembled by them.

The issue will become how high you want to go. What I have learned is at 2.5in or more you want to change the UCAs. 2.5in is where the handling starts to suffer with OEM UCAs. If you are going to replace the UCAs, you are looking at $500 right there.

I also gave myself a headache looking at all the options and came to this .... I don't want rebuildable shocks. I don't want something crazy custom. I don't want 3in of lift. I don't want a harsh ride. I really don't care what the brand is.

What I want is something reliable, easily replaceable, comfortable riding and something that keeps most of the stock parts on my 4Runner.

I was going to get 6112/5160 with OME rear springs, but I'm not so sure any more. I really only want about 2inches of lift, keep the rake and use OEM UCAs.

For me its more important to as much of the truck stock as possible. That means I keep the OEM reliability. When something breaks, and it will, I don't have to try to get custom parts. OEM or OEM-ish parts are way easier to find in the middle of nowhere.

Right now I'm leaning to Dobinsons long travel twin-tube coil overs and rear shocks. Then using +2in springs (standard or moderate load). The long travel shocks have the softest valving.


Fantastic post, thank you. I feel like we are in the same boat, here. I will not be doing a custom bumper or winch anytime soon, if ever. I do not really need a medium spring in the front. Keeping the OEM UCA at this point is looking like a must, for the price range i want to stay in. I spoke with Mike via PM here, and he mentioned his kit, and i think it's similar to what you just said. He quoted me somewhere around $800 for the setup. It sounds more and more like the direction im looking to go, since our convo.

At a later time, i can grab aftermarket UCA's and potentially upping the spring rates etc.
 
Fantastic post, thank you. I feel like we are in the same boat, here. I will not be doing a custom bumper or winch anytime soon, if ever. I do not really need a medium spring in the front. Keeping the OEM UCA at this point is looking like a must, for the price range i want to stay in. I spoke with Mike via PM here, and he mentioned his kit, and i think it's similar to what you just said. He quoted me somewhere around $800 for the setup. It sounds more and more like the direction im looking to go, since our convo.

At a later time, i can grab aftermarket UCA's and potentially upping the spring rates etc.

Keep in mind that any shock you get will only last 50-80k miles. People can and do use them for longer, but the performance isn't there any more. Many manufactures will even consider 40k to no longer maintain 'like new' performance.

If you are leaning towards Dobinsons, I would suggest speaking with Mike on the phone to ensure it meets your needs and no assumptions are being made. Mike is great a laying out info online, but nothing beats talking something over with someone :)
 
$1000 all in wont get you much really. Make sure you add installation and alignment and you will quickly exceed that mark. You may end up spending $4-600 just for installation and alignment alone. Also, if you plan to go much over 2" it is commonly recommended to replace the UCA.

Honestly, you're driving a $35-40,000 vehicle. I would think twice before going cheap on the suspension. You should probably do a bit more research before making any decision.

You may want to head out in your stock truck and see what you can get into. It may surprise you just how capable it is in the stock form. Then buy components that better match your needs after actually seeing what you will actually face.


Good advice. I will also add that I am not "sure", but I don't think 285/70/17 is designed to safely go on a stock wheel. Even if you could do it, you may need some body mount chop, which is more $$. Maybe save the money you would spend on a decent set of 285/70/17 (probably $1250 with a spare), and put that into the suspension for now and do tires later.
 
Another thing i found in my research, the rear sits about an inch higher than the front, so staggering your lift/spring rates is ideal to get a level look.

I also found out that i do indeed UCA's if going to a 3" or larger. So, thanks for that, but i had already seen that in my research. Knowing that installation and alignment will run extra is not a big deal, i was merely wanting a kit for around a thousand, not including the install and alignment.

I would not try to figure out too much on your own. Maybe call a reputable integrator like Toytec and tell them your goals and budget, pick their brain. Nice part about an outfit like that is they sell a lot of brands, and they work with local installers, so you still have lots of flexibility in your options.
 
$1000 all in wont get you much really. Make sure you add installation and alignment and you will quickly exceed that mark. You may end up spending $4-600 just for installation and alignment alone. Also, if you plan to go much over 2" it is commonly recommended to replace the UCA.

Honestly, you're driving a $35-40,000 vehicle. I would think twice before going cheap on the suspension. You should probably do a bit more research before making any decision.

You may want to head out in your stock truck and see what you can get into. It may surprise you just how capable it is in the stock form. Then buy components that better match your needs after actually seeing what you will actually face.

I'm far from mechanically inclined and managed to install my full suspension on my patio in the RV Park I live in. I'd think many people can do it themselves. It's good to learn and understand how it works in the event anything breaks/needs replacing.
 
I'm far from mechanically inclined and managed to install my full suspension on my patio in the RV Park I live in. I'd think many people can do it themselves. It's good to learn and understand how it works in the event anything breaks/needs replacing.

youtube :cool:

it's not too hard really. just need time and patience. and a jack. and the right tools. lol.

i have kdss so this install i'm doing is going to be interesting but good thing for youtube i'm learning a lot about it. just some extra bolts and stuff right?!?! lol
 

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