Best Valve Cover Gaskets 3.4L?

[Speedy]

I'd find a way to extract the broken bolt and replace it without removing the valve cover.

 

[Sarki]

I'm about to tackle this on my 02. Book time is 3 hours. What is it about this job that seems to take people days to complete it? I'm OCD and will be cleaning the valve covers thoroughly and probably painting them, but how does 3 hours become 8 or 12?

When I did this job on my 02 a few years back I took my time and became a proud member of the weekend club.
Replaced all related parts as noted by Timmy in his earlier post and also went with OEM parts.
Turn on some good tunes, get your tools ready, take a bunch of before pictures as well as some along the way and take the opportunity to clean up engine bay, inspect all hoses wire connections/plugs belts and everything else under the hood.
I took notes documenting my steps so it’s easier next time around. I enjoy the work so no reason to rush through it.

 

[brillo_76]

When I did the 1997 limited. We resealed the entire engine minus the head gaskets. I can tell you it's alot easier to do that with the engine out..

I do have reseal my 1998 engine yet. As it's bad enough that if you drive around with the windows down you smell the oil burning.

I probably should check the valve clearance as it's at 290k. I did the timing belt a while ago to fix a coolant link.

The entire front of the engine is all resealed now too.


I use toyota oem gaskets and seals for the valve cover project.

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

 

[T4R2014]

For anyone wondering, the Beck Arnley kit I got was identical to the Ishino kit. Ishino isn't OEM, but it is made in Japan if that does the job for you. You can also get Japanese made NOK cam plugs (they make OEM) for much less in a FelPro package. Still haven't found anything better than OEM intake gaskets or PCV parts.

 

[Bad Luck]

Kind of off topic, but I figured I might as well ask here since it's the only current thread related to valve covers. When I last did my valve cover gaskets (about 3 months ago, but have only put maybe 20 miles on it since), I was torqueing down my valve cover bolts using ft-lbs instead of inch-lbs. I guess my torque wrench isn't very accurate at such low numbers, and I managed to snap one of the bolts. As far as I'm aware it's not leaking or anything, but just knowing I have a broken bolt down there is bugging me so I plan on going back in to replace it. My question is that is there anything in there that's single use? I was planning on replacing all of the bolts just to be safe, but is there anything else I should replace just because I took it apart? Mainly looking to avoid doing it a third time, but I already replaced all the additional parts Tim recommends doing. My idea was that I should be ok if I just scrape off the old RTV and replace it, then replace the rubber washers. Am I missing anything else?

As long as your valve cover gasket is still flexible (which it should be at only a few months old) I would feel fine reusing it.

 

[3bears]

there is also a gasket in the oil filler. i replaced mine on one I did years ago.
I used the Ishino gasket set at the time and never had a problem.

I will be doing my current 4runner vc gaskets etc this spring/

 

[mtbtim]

I'm about to tackle this on my 02. Book time is 3 hours. What is it about this job that seems to take people days to complete it? I'm OCD and will be cleaning the valve covers thoroughly and probably painting them, but how does 3 hours become 8 or 12?

I'd say to do a careful job cleaning everything throughly and also painting them, it will be at least a 5 hour job.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

I'd say to do a careful job cleaning everything throughly and also painting them, it will be at least a 5 hour job.

I'm thinking of painting mine - any recommendations on which paint to use?

 

[Speedy]

I'm thinking of painting mine - any recommendations on which paint to use?

I've been looking at engine enamel. Ideally we'd have them powder coated but I don't really wanna wait a week with the truck torn down for that.

Lots have used VHT engine enamel with good results. I'm just trying to decide on a gloss silver for OEM look or wrinkle red for hot rod.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

I've been looking at engine enamel. Ideally we'd have them powder coated but I don't really wanna wait a week with the truck torn down for that.

Lots have used VHT engine enamel with good results. I'm just trying to decide on a gloss silver for OEM look or wrinkle red for hot rod.

Good suggestions, thanks. What do you think about a DTM paint like the POR15? https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45918...951499&sprefix=dtm+paint,aps,173&sr=8-22&th=1

I wonder which would give the best protection against chemicals like throttle body cleaner etc (powder coat is probably the best approach).

 

[Speedy]

Good suggestions, thanks. What do you think about a DTM paint like the POR15? Amazon.com

I wonder which would give the best protection against chemicals like throttle body cleaner etc (powder coat is probably the best approach).

Wonder why Amazon links tend to not work on this forum....I had to copy/paste it in a new tab to see it. Anyway....

I tend to stick with very well known paint vendors when I do rattle can work. I've found it does make a big difference in the finished product. I've had very good results with Dupli-Color brand and have used it for years. VHT is a division of Dupli-Color aka Sherwin Williams. I can't speak to POR.

One thing I'm checking in to now is primer. Typically, raw aluminum like our valve covers require a self etching primer but I'm not finding one that's "high heat". Not sure how hot the valve covers get. I'll have to check next drive with my thermometer gun.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

One thing I'm checking in to now is primer. Typically, raw aluminum like our valve covers require a self etching primer but I'm not finding one that's "high heat". Not sure how hot the valve covers get. I'll have to check next drive with my thermometer gun.

Yup, that's exactly why I'm thinking about Direct To Metal paints, to skip the primer....

 

[3bears]

found out I have a garage to use for 2 days the first of april so I just ordered everything to do mine....oem

in an earlier post I mentioned the oil fill cap gasket...if you need # it is 90430-37140

also ordered lots of other parts like ICV gasket, throttle body gasket, pcv grommet , hose and pcv, heater control valve, fuel filter and oem cold weather rear tailgate struts

 

[Speedy]

Yup, that's exactly why I'm thinking about Direct To Metal paints, to skip the primer....

FYI I've found two places that seem to indicate the VHT wrinkle doesn't need a primer:
Write up - Intake assembly removal/valve cover removal/painted valve covers | X-Runner Underground

and

How to use VHT wrinkle paint | Cafe Racer Webshop - CafeRacerWebshop.com

I'm going to try to give Duplicolor a call tomorrow to confirm this applies to aluminum but those articles seem to indicate it does.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

FYI I've found two places that seem to indicate the VHT wrinkle doesn't need a primer:
Write up - Intake assembly removal/valve cover removal/painted valve covers | X-Runner Underground

and

How to use VHT wrinkle paint | Cafe Racer Webshop - CafeRacerWebshop.com

I'm going to try to give Duplicolor a call tomorrow to confirm this applies to aluminum but those articles seem to indicate it does.

Interesting find! I'm probably going to go with their standard engine enamel paint, with some etching primer first.

 

[brillo_76]

Interesting find! I'm probably going to go with their standard engine enamel paint, with some etching primer first.

Paint needs scratches or a rough surface to stick too. I used etching primer before seems to work. You can always hand sand with wet sand 180 then primer wed sand 300 then primer again. After that's cured go for the enamel top coat. Depends on how smooth a surface you want it to be when completed.

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[Speedy]

Ok VHT got back to me. They stated you can use the VHT SP148 primer if we'd like, or scuffing up the surface really well and putting the VHT Wrinkle Plus straight on the aluminum is also fine. Since others have done the latter, that's the way I'll go and skip the primer.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

I ended up taking the easy way out and getting mine powder coated. The guy gave me a killer deal that I could not pass up. Looks great IMO (ignore my smudge near the top):

 

[Speedy]

Looks real good!

 

[Speedy]

Starting on the valve cover gaskets this week. I'm planning to paint mine and was curious how hot they get. This was after about a 30 minute drive, stopped to run some errands, and a 30 minute drive back. This was the hottest spot I could find.

I'll put more details in my build thread.