Nervous about Valve Cover Gasket Bolts

Berty_K

Berty_K

Member
Anyone else here nervous about replacing valve cover gaskets? Got a 2008 V6 with 250k miles and a leaking passenger side valve cover. Not a major leak, so nothing highly urgent.

It is something I'd like to get to at some point. My only hesitation is breaking the bolts due to their age (17 year old truck with 13 years in the rust belt).

Thinking penetrating oil soak a few days in advance. What else can I do to reduce chances of bolts breaking?
 
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I would tap on the bolts each time I put penetrating oil on them using a punch on the head of the bolt tapping with a hammer, the shock should help break up some of the corrosion if present helping to loosen them and allow more penetrating oil to get to the threads.
 
AuSeeker said:
I would tap on the bolts each time I put penetrating oil on them using a punch on the head of the bolt tapping with a hammer, the shock should help break up some of the corrosion if present helping to loosen them and allow more penetrating oil to get to the threads.
Click to expand...

great tip, thanks
 
When I did my '03 couple years ago I soaked the bolts for a week in advance, hit each one with a hammer, still broke the lower rear on each side. Hope you don't have any breaks, but very possible.
 
rdruss said:
When I did my '03 couple years ago I soaked the bolts for a week in advance, hit each one with a hammer, still broke the lower rear on each side. Hope you don't have any breaks, but very possible.
Click to expand...

Did you end up having to drill the bolt out?

I’ve drilled out plenty of bolts, but drilling out a broken bolt on the engine block does give me pause.

Might buy an induction bolt heater.
 
Berty_K said:
Did you end up having to drill the bolt out?

I’ve drilled out plenty of bolts, but drilling out a broken bolt on the engine block does give me pause.

Might buy an induction bolt heater.
Click to expand...

rdruss said:
When I did my '03 couple years ago I soaked the bolts for a week in advance, hit each one with a hammer, still broke the lower rear on each side. Hope you don't have any breaks, but very possible.
Click to expand...

I would think that since [MENTION=141814]Berty_K[/MENTION] is in California he may not have as much corrosion as [MENTION=101325]rdruss[/MENTION] does in Illinois, so it maybe easier on him hopefully.
 
AuSeeker said:
I would think that since [MENTION=141814]Berty_K[/MENTION] is in California he may not have as much corrosion as [MENTION=101325]rdruss[/MENTION] does in Illinois, so it maybe easier on him hopefully.
Click to expand...

Being in Cal now certainly helps, but 13 years in Chicago took its toll.
 
I don't recall having any issues replacing my valve cover gaskets a few years ago. I always use a small ratchet when doing small fasteners that I care about. Sometimes turn a bit in one direction, then turn a bit in the other to get it to release. Now the exhaust manifold bolts I remember have issues with.
 
Indiana owner here. I did the cam seals (and valve stem seals because of "while I'm in there" itis) this past winter, so had to deal with the valve cover, which ended up being a several day project.

Broke 9 of those bastards. Tried welding nuts on to extract, that didn't work at all. What it did do was help break the bolt flush to the valve cover. So then I just drilled and tapped all 9. Trickiest part was centering the holes when drilling. But its been almost 1 year and no leaks.
 
Not at all. The steel bolts are way stronger than the aluminum cylinder head..mine came out with no issues..
 
EDIT: Below applies to the V8, where the end of the valve cover bolts are exposed from the underside, where corrosion happens. Not sure if the V6 is the same design (I hope not)

Hate to say that I just went through this 2 months back and it was not a smooth job, with a truck that's spent the last 8 years in the Northeast.

I personally started the job on the driver side, all upper bolts came out fine. Then I snapped the forwardmost lower bolt, upon which I took it to a trusted mechanic, because I'm not well-equipped to deal with a snapped bolt with little access.

All four lower bolts on both driver and passenger side required drilling out. Induction heater was no help, and I personally saw the remnants of a dozen or so attempts to weld to the nuts/bolts to get them out, no go. When my mechanic says drilling was the only option, I believe him.

Believe the engine mounts had to be unhooked, and the engine lifted up in order to be able to get a straight angle on them to drill, with a right angle low profile drill. I had the timing belt/water pump/pulleys/etc done during the same job, and the bill came to $2624 (I provided the valve cover gaskets, new valve cover bolts, and spark plug tube seals.)

Could be a 2 hour job if the bolts come out, could be a nightmare like above. Good luck
 
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Yes, it would be an easy job IF all the bolts came out, but if in rust belt, don't count on it. One broken bolt can ruin your day. I was able to drill out the rear lower on passenger side, screwed up the original bolt hole, but enough of it left for a new capscrew to grab, but the driver side, forget it. Only the head of the capscrew broke of so there was a "stud" still there and I used a threaded one piece bushing/washer type nut (don't know what you call them) that I re-tapped to correct thread, drilled out the VC hole just slightly so it would fit through and it is still holding.
 
rdruss said:
Yes, it would be an easy job IF all the bolts came out, but if in rust belt, don't count on it. One broken bolt can ruin your day. I was able to drill out the rear lower on passenger side, screwed up the original bolt hole, but enough of it left for a new capscrew to grab, but the driver side, forget it. Only the head of the capscrew broke of so there was a "stud" still there and I used a threaded one piece bushing/washer type nut (don't know what you call them) that I re-tapped to correct thread, drilled out the VC hole just slightly so it would fit through and it is still holding.
Click to expand...

The one piece threaded bushing nut you're referring too is called either a "Shoulder Nut" or a "Barrel Nut.

This search link is for shoulder nut.

Google Search
 
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To those of you who have drilled out those bolts on the lower side of the V8 or just in general. If you would be able to recommend what tools, drill bits, extractors you used in the process that would be very helpful.

I’ve had my lower valve cover bolts sheared in half still in the vehicle for the better part of 4 years and with some questionable problem solving I’ve only had a minor oil leak consistent for that time (not my proudest). This comes after
my local mechanic also tried the welding nut and told me engine was going to have to come out but I was not in the works for that.

Attached is a few photos of what I had and still looking to get fixed. 05 V8 260K
 

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If you still have some of the broken bolt sticking up above the gasket surface you can try using "shoulder nuts" as I did. They are shaped like a "top hat' with a tapped through hole. See the post above yours.
 
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