best way to hit 300k plus

[turkeyman]

i have a well maintained 2000 3.4 runner. just changed valve cover gaskets and the inside of head were surprisingly clean (240k). i swapped to mobil one synthetic oil with toyota oil filters and oil stays clean until 4k into cycle then slowly gets blacker but nothing like dino.

i developed no leaks upon switching to synthetic oil. i live in the south and we do not have rust issues so i really want to keep my t4r on the road as long as possible. any tips? it has never had a timing belt replacement that i know of.

thanks

 

[trey99ek]

Best way to hit 300k is drive more.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk

 

[Devbot]

:iagree: This. Just keep driving and being attentive to the maintenance, as you should. if you have nothing wrong now, then just keep note of any feel/sounds/CELs that arise.
People tend to forget about the trannies and diffs, so a fluid change would probably be appreciated. Rad flush could probably help - and an external tranny cooler would eliminate any chance of pink milkshakes. Some people flush their power steering but I never have.
New fuel filters never hurt and are usually forgotten about.
You could replace your ball joints with some fresh ones, as they're probably gonna be the original set, that is if you have the money (lower is more crucial and cheaper/easier to replace than upper)

 

[thennen]

Do the timing belt. They’re very durable, but More than 125k on one starts getting you into the danger zone.

 

[Dieselchessy]

I have no issues getting these rigs up beyond 300k.

Change the fluids, all of them, brake, tranny, front and rear diff, power steering, coolant, and fuel filter at least every 50k.
I change engine oil every 3000 to 3500.
Air filter every other oil change or as needed.
Clean the MAF and IAC when you replace the air filter.
Every other full fluid change replace the timing belt, water pump, idlers, fan belts, front O2 sensor, and if needed valve cover gaskets.
Replace the radiator if it’s original.
Replace the lower ball joints if they are original.

Everything else pretty well replace on fail.

 

[Endlessblockades]

As has already been mentioned - replace fuel every time it gets low.

I have a 300,000 mile sticker I'm trying to earn, too - keep driving!

kinda corny but......

 

[Thebeastlives]

Your 4 runner is 20+ years old and isn't bullet proof so you will and should start to replace some of the above mention parts. Failure to do so could cause a serious failure of the motor or even a crash. Definitely change the timing belt and while at it change the water pump, radiator, add a trans cooler and definitely replace the lbs. These are base mark maintenance items since you don't have any records on any of them being performed. Also as mentioned change all your fluids and don't miss your diffs or transfer case fluids. I would next check all your suspension parts and pay attn the bearing front and rear they wear out with age and miles along with bushing every where. Check your entire brake system front and rear which is free at most places. I've put over 30k miles on my 3rd gen during the pandemic and these were considerably more miles than any other car in my garage. Because of that I had to do maintenance recently replacing the rear axles seals front torn cv axles front axles bearing rear shock failure (warranty) and brakes. Hey but at 330k miles and 26 years old it is still running well.

 

[turkeyman]

thanks for the input fellow
members! i have done the tundra front brake upgrade (best money i’ve spent on the truck), a new oem radiator and all hoses, new shift solenoids in tranny (wasnt my oroblem but went ahead with the work). also have changed all fluids at appropriate intervals. just did complete struts assembly on both sides and rear shocks with ole
man emu heavier duty rear springs as i often tow a small boat. lower ball joints were (or seemed) ok but i replaced with oem. most of these jobs i learned about here on our forum

 

[dachickenfarmer]

Agree, it's the one biggie that can knock you out...

 

[WeakSauz]

Everything folks have already said..

Plus-- Get an Ultra Gauge or Scan Gauge to monitor Coolant temps. It is a good way to keep an eye on something if you start creeping to 220 plus (hose burst etc-- anything technically could happen).

Monitoring a sudden coolant temp increase could save a head gasket.

A blown HG will put you down