Bi.polar door locks

Dmart_808

New member
whats up fellas ,

i couldnt find a thread with a similar problem as myself,but if you could point me in the right direction ill appreciate it!

Okay i gotta 99 , my door locks will work fine along with the remote, but like once a month when i try to lock the 4runner with the door or remote switch,
the locks (on all 4 doors) will go down about half way then pop back up, it does it while locking or unlocking. as if its rejecting the signal.most of the time if i manually lock unlock each lock it would somtimes "line up as if somthing was off track" and return to normal use.

just wanted to see if anyone had the same problimo.

Thankx!!
 
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I have that same problem as well. I usually just leave it for a while and they work. Kind of annoying though because my drivers side door is the only one that doesn't close and I don't catch it all the time.
 
Thankx for the reply, nice nowing im not the only one. do you have a aftermarket alarm or the factory alarm installed?
 
I have a factory alarm. It's happened to me about 4 times for the 8 months or so I've had my 4runner. I just get worried because people have broken into my cars twice already.
 
sounds like we both are in need of help with this,,,

any one familiar with testing the alarm/ door lock componants, brain modual thinggy ma bob? im sorry i dont know what there called lol
 
c'mon there is no such thing as a stupid questions. i changed the batteries, going to try that link out,, thanks
 
This may be a stupid question but have you guys tried replacing the batter(y) ies, and the reprogramming the fobs? http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...tructions-keyless-entry-remote.html#post60884

Also, could it be that the module itself got wet and it short circuiting?? Just a thought...



unfortunetly i couldnt get it to respond to this step:

""5. Within 3 seconds, the power door locks should cycle (automatically)
indicating successful entry into programming mode. Return to step 1
if the locks do not cycle at this point.""
 
unfortunetly i couldnt get it to respond to this step:

""5. Within 3 seconds, the power door locks should cycle (automatically)
indicating successful entry into programming mode. Return to step 1
if the locks do not cycle at this point.""

Keep trying, I understand there's a cadence to the steps for it to work.

And do you have any better pics of your wheels (I checked your photo album but didn't see any wheel/tire porn)?
 
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is a negative :(..

i think whatever brain unit that im trying to activate isnt working properly, sometimes ill hit the lock on either of the 2 front doors and it seems to act weak, like its not enough power. its also affecting the process of accessing the reprogram mode.

anyone know where this part is located and how to tell if its not good?
its strange how the door locks goes into "limp mode" when this happens :/


*UPDATE - for some reason the locks work fine with key in ON position.....? but still not fixed.
 
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basically the more i use the door lock switch the weaker the door locks get to the point they dont lock, wheres the brain ecu for the factory locks/alarm system located?

or posibly a relay that sends the power is malfuntioning?
 
basically the more i use the door lock switch the weaker the door locks get to the point they dont lock, wheres the brain ecu for the factory locks/alarm system located?

or posibly a relay that sends the power is malfuntioning?

Relays for the locks are built into the body ECU. Thats the big box with some fuses in it, behind the knee bolster panel. Cycle the door locks by the door switch and follow the clicking sound.
 
Anybody solve this?

basically the more i use the door lock switch the weaker the door locks get to the point they dont lock, wheres the brain ecu for the factory locks/alarm system located?

or posibly a relay that sends the power is malfuntioning?


I just got a 99 and am having the same problem. When the car is on, the door locks are strong. But when I turn the car off, they seem to get weak, to the point that sometimes the door stays unlocked even. It makes the clicking sound but the locks don't always move. It seems to be happening to all doors equally. This is of course causing a problem trying to program key fobs because the I can't get through the whole lock/unlock process without the locks getting tired and stopping.

Any ideas?
 
That is a common problem while trying to program the fob ( locks not moving completly up or down).

In order to program the fob, when you get to that point of lock/unlock multiple times just manually assist the locks with one hand while pressing the buttons with the other.

When I purchased my runner that was the first thing I did was get a fob, and I found this awesome site while looking for the answer to my problems.

Good luck!!
 
I just got a 99 and am having the same problem. When the car is on, the door locks are strong. But when I turn the car off, they seem to get weak, to the point that sometimes the door stays unlocked even. It makes the clicking sound but the locks don't always move. It seems to be happening to all doors equally. This is of course causing a problem trying to program key fobs because the I can't get through the whole lock/unlock process without the locks getting tired and stopping.

Any ideas?


i still run into this problem sometimes,
still have not solved problem thou
 
Did you try replacing the actuators or the motors in the actuators? I have the same issue. Was trying to program new key fobs but I can't lock/unlock 5 times in a row, by the 3rd time, the locks are barely moving and the mechanism sounds weak.
 
If there is a bad actuator, which sounds like your problem, then you won't be able to do the program sequence and also will have weird alarm issues. Need to find which door lock is failing and replace the actuator.
 
It's been a while, but it seems to me that on the '99 Limited I used to have the locks would act the way the OP is reporting (halfway down then pop back up) if I had left the key in the ignition. I thought is was a cool feature, and I think my wife's Lexus does that too. The 2000 I have now doesn't have remote locking so I can't test it.

Is it possible that the key-in-the ignition sensor is shorting?

Or am I remembering the wrong car?
 
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This happened to me one time after dropping my remote. They would go halfway down and pop back up. Whether I used the remote or the switch inside. Disconnected and reconnected battery and it's better. For now... That was maybe 3 weeks ago. Fingers crossed!
 

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