Bilstein 5100 install guide

Sorry guys. I didn't really want to ask. I been googling and searched through 10+ pages to find an install guide but failed miserably. I'm sure it's somewhere super obvious but I can't find it. Would someone send me a link of an install guide for the 5100s and a rear spacer please. -mike
 
Register to hide this ad
No install guides that I've seen here, not many DIY for all that matters. Really straight forward install. Any green shade garage mechanic can do it.

Front:

-Lift, put on jack stands, remove wheels.
-disconnect ABS lines so you dont break them during install.
-remove endlinks and sway bar.
-remove LCA bolt, remove UCA bolt, pull shock assembly out. Helps to have an extra person.
-put on spring compressors, remove springs and transfer over to 5100s at set height. Reinstall spring, hats, bolt, etc. make sure all lines up correctly.
-Install the shock assembly. Takes some wiggling. Connect ABS sensor.
-Torque to factory specs.

Rear:

-Wheels removed and SUV on stands.
-Place jack on one side of rear axle and jack up so its easier to remove endlink bolt, remove shock. Coil will fall out.
-Install new 5100 shock, put spacer on top of coil and reinstall endlink.
-Repeat on other side.

Shouldn't take more than 90mins-2hours. Then take it in for an alignment.
 
Last edited:
+1 for the no spring compressor route. I have done both ways and the no spring compressor instructions posted here was way easier.
 
On the struts. Is there 3 settings for the height? .85, 1.75, and 2.5?

4. The bottom one is for 0 lift. And remember the spring cups face DOWN (narrow side up) when reinstalling the springs. A couple have managed to put them in upside down. This will automatically gain you a couple inches of lift you don't want.
 
Last edited:
Take a look at the 4th gen threads for cornfed install. Some super helpful walkthroughs that I used to install a lift on my 4th gen years ago, and again for the 5100s a few months ago.

I used spring compressors that I rented from autozone. Never had an issue and I must have used them a dozen times over the years working on different setups for my 2004.
 
No install guides that I've seen here, not many DIY for all that matters. Really straight forward install. Any green shade garage mechanic can do it.

Front:

-Lift, put on jack stands, remove wheels.
-disconnect ABS lines so you dont break them during install.
-remove endlinks and sway bar.
-remove LCA bolt, remove UCA bolt, pull shock assembly out. Helps to have an extra person.
-put on spring compressors, remove springs and transfer over to 5100s at set height. Reinstall spring, hats, bolt, etc. make sure all lines up correctly.
-Install the shock assembly. Takes some wiggling. Connect ABS sensor.
-Torque to factory specs.

Rear:

-Wheels removed and SUV on stands.
-Place jack on one side of rear axle and jack up so its easier to remove endlink bolt, remove shock. Coil will fall out.
-Install new 5100 shock, put spacer on top of coil and reinstall endlink.
-Repeat on other side.

Shouldn't take more than 90mins-2hours. Then take it in for an alignment.

Thanks for the info.
Where can I get all the torque specs required for this job? Also some tuts. mention using "tie rod puller", is that necessary?
 
You can find the torque values on google if you search the specs for the 5th gen.

You also don't need to remove the tie-rod. You get more wiggle room if you do but not necessary at all.
 
Shock rotates even after being tightened

After installing my shock and tightening it down as much as it would go I noticed that I could still hand rotate the entire shock. When I tightened it I had a vice grip on the shock and was using a standard wrench on the nut End it will not tighten anymore. But the entire shock body will rotate. Is this normal?
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,053
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top