Hey, just got back into the T4R game a few weeks ago with an ‘11 SR5 after having 2 different 3rd gens in my younger years. Tried installing a Bilstein 5100 lift with Wheeler’s coils today but ran into difficulty with getting the shock to fit into the mount on the lower control arm. It was too wide. Called Wheeler’s and they said “just bend the mount open.” Well I had already tried that. Does anyone have any tips or tricks for spreading open the walls to the mount? Sorry if this has been covered somewhere, I didn’t really know what to search for besides “lift install gone wrong” ha. Appreciate the help.
Bilstein 5100 install question
- Thread starter GrahamNC
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Soulsurvives
New member
Use a crescent wrench and open it just wide enough to get over one side of the mount. Slowly bend it out a little. The bigger the wrench the easier it is.
DougR
Member
It appears the shock bushing sleeve is about 1/16-th inch too long on each side. If it's that much or slightly more, then this is how I would spread the shock mount:
Get the largest bolt that passes through the mount holes and has threads at least the width of the shock absorber bushing sleeve plus 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Insert bolt through one side of the shock mount, install a washer to bear on the inside of the mount, install a nut to bear against the first washer, install a second nut followed by a second washer to bear against the inside of the mount on the opposite side. Adjust both nuts so that bolt thread is centered in the mount and hand tighten nuts to bear against both sides of the mount. Use open end wrenches to turn the nuts and expand the shock mount until it is a little wider than the shock bushing. Loosen the nuts to relieve expansive pressure on the mount and measure the width of the opening. Expect the mount to spring back a little bit. Expand the mount again if needed. Remove bolt, washers, nuts and install shock absorber.
The method suggested by SoulSurvives will work if the width you need to expand the mount is very small. Test to see if the shock bushing sleeve slides in easily so that you can install the shock mount bolt without having to hammer it in which may damage the threads. Try using a punch to align the bushing sleeve with the mount holes to make it easy to insert the shock mount bolt.
Tighten the shock mount bolt to the proper torque and verify that the mount bears tightly against the bushing sleeve. If the bushing sleeve is allowed to move around, the mount holes are likely to elongate and wear thereby making it necessary to replace the lower control arms. I recommend you recheck torque on lower shock mount bolts after a month of driving.
Get the largest bolt that passes through the mount holes and has threads at least the width of the shock absorber bushing sleeve plus 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Insert bolt through one side of the shock mount, install a washer to bear on the inside of the mount, install a nut to bear against the first washer, install a second nut followed by a second washer to bear against the inside of the mount on the opposite side. Adjust both nuts so that bolt thread is centered in the mount and hand tighten nuts to bear against both sides of the mount. Use open end wrenches to turn the nuts and expand the shock mount until it is a little wider than the shock bushing. Loosen the nuts to relieve expansive pressure on the mount and measure the width of the opening. Expect the mount to spring back a little bit. Expand the mount again if needed. Remove bolt, washers, nuts and install shock absorber.
The method suggested by SoulSurvives will work if the width you need to expand the mount is very small. Test to see if the shock bushing sleeve slides in easily so that you can install the shock mount bolt without having to hammer it in which may damage the threads. Try using a punch to align the bushing sleeve with the mount holes to make it easy to insert the shock mount bolt.
Tighten the shock mount bolt to the proper torque and verify that the mount bears tightly against the bushing sleeve. If the bushing sleeve is allowed to move around, the mount holes are likely to elongate and wear thereby making it necessary to replace the lower control arms. I recommend you recheck torque on lower shock mount bolts after a month of driving.
Last edited:
DougR
Member
I just realized that it may be difficult to find a bolt with threads long enough. If so, a short length of all thread rod will work. If that is not available, two bolts would also work, where the threaded ends meet in the middle of the mount and press against each other as the nuts are tightened, which expands the shock mount opening.
So I got a 1/2” x 5in fully threaded carriage bolt (3 or 4 inch probably would’ve worked fine), two 2” washers, and two nuts from Lowes for under $3. Worked beautifully. Thanks for the help!
Also, tried a pry bar, but couldn’t get the leverage with the one I had. With the right one it probably would’ve worked too.
Also, tried a pry bar, but couldn’t get the leverage with the one I had. With the right one it probably would’ve worked too.
That's how its done
arty:
Great job asking the question, trouble shooting and replying with the answer, problem solved for anyone that comes along, everyone should do it that way makes a great place here.
arty: