Bilstein 6112 Install on 2017 Limited
- Thread starter wags1980
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I just installed 5100's and new springs all around on my 17 TRDORP. It was probably the most easy suspension install I have ever done. The fronts were really easy as I recommend loosening the LCA bolts and letting the arm swing down instead of prying and pushing on the arm. The rears will take a bit of force to get the 5100's in place but having a friend and a jack under the rear diff helps. Also, jack up one side of the rear axle to allow the other side to go down far enough to let the new spring slide in. Removing XREAS, I cannot help you with, but there are some youtube videos out there. Good luck!
MyanRagahis
Member
This is what helped me. I don't have a spring compressor, I always used the weight of the vehicle to decompress the spring. Unless yours are already put together and just swapping shock for shock, taking out the whole strut assembly, then you may not have to go through what I go through.
It'd probably help to have ramps or some way to have the the vehicle higher in the air under its own weight once you're done so you can torque things down properly and a little quicker while the tire is on. I always just put a jack underneath the hub with the tire off then torque things down, then throw the tire back on.
Torque numbers in lb-ft:
70 for shock to lower control arm ( for the top, I just tightened it for what I felt was appropriate)
118 for both lower ball joint bolts to spindle
129 for lower control arm bolts if you're gonna loosen them and use the vehicle's weight to decompress the spring. Just mark where your cam tabs are now.
Unsure what clip settings you're going with but I always had a small lean on the driver side regardless of what the Bilstein manual said. Even with my current 700 lb springs. I didn't want offset preload anymore so I ended up using a 1/2" top plate spacer on the driver to get it leveled. For mine, both are on #5 clips with the 1/2" top plate spacer (gave me 3/4" of lift) and even on both sides.
It'd probably help to have ramps or some way to have the the vehicle higher in the air under its own weight once you're done so you can torque things down properly and a little quicker while the tire is on. I always just put a jack underneath the hub with the tire off then torque things down, then throw the tire back on.
Torque numbers in lb-ft:
70 for shock to lower control arm ( for the top, I just tightened it for what I felt was appropriate)
118 for both lower ball joint bolts to spindle
129 for lower control arm bolts if you're gonna loosen them and use the vehicle's weight to decompress the spring. Just mark where your cam tabs are now.
Unsure what clip settings you're going with but I always had a small lean on the driver side regardless of what the Bilstein manual said. Even with my current 700 lb springs. I didn't want offset preload anymore so I ended up using a 1/2" top plate spacer on the driver to get it leveled. For mine, both are on #5 clips with the 1/2" top plate spacer (gave me 3/4" of lift) and even on both sides.
Good Info thanks, i have assembled struts so springs for me. this is why I am leaning towards just popping the single ball joint at the top. Did you have to do anything with the sway bar asides from detaching it from the spindle .
MyanRagahis
Member
I actually didn't have to do anything with the upper control arm or the sway bar at all for my shock. The only time I really messed with all that was when I replaced my upper control arms for the JBAs. I'm not sure how xreas will be so I'm of no help there.
I always just brought in the shock/spring from the bottom going up between the cv axle and the tie rod. The whole hub/brake assembly can be shifted towards the front and rear of vehicle respectively, so that's how I get my room to bring everything in place.
You can probably do it the way you're wanting to since your top plate is already put together. I think everything may line up good and you shouldn't have trouble mounting the bottom bolt or anything. But don't hold me to that lol.
Have something to hold the hub assembly/spindle so the CV doesn't pop out. Maybe wire and/or keep a jack under the lower control arm.
Just curious, where did you get your 6112 setup from? Myself and many others have been waiting for the national back order to fill for months and many promised dates that came and went.
Just Loaf It
New member
There are two different part numbers for the 6112's. The older part number (BIL#46-XXXX) only has 4 or 5 perch settings for the springs where the newer, and seriously backordered 6112's (BIL#47-XXXX) are the same construction with the only difference being 8 perch settings for your springs.
Correct I got the older model from a local shop since I am running them at 2.5 lift.
Tip for removing XREAS shocks
Be sure to remove the xreas lines at each union fitting and not at the shock itself. The union fittings are self sealing and you shouldn't have anything more than a drop to clean up after.
Also if you want to reuse or sell the xreas shocks, the correct procedure is to remove them with all wheels raised off the ground at the same time. I also left my lines in place in case I want to revert back to original condition.
Be sure to remove the xreas lines at each union fitting and not at the shock itself. The union fittings are self sealing and you shouldn't have anything more than a drop to clean up after.
Also if you want to reuse or sell the xreas shocks, the correct procedure is to remove them with all wheels raised off the ground at the same time. I also left my lines in place in case I want to revert back to original condition.
honda250xtitan
New member
I've always just loosened/removed the ball joint bolt as well on the uppers when doing suspensions. But for some reason everyone on 4runners goes at it via loosening the LCA
CF_Machete
Senior Member
FYI, the older ones were tuned for the FJ Cruiser. The newer ones are tuned specifically for the 4Runner. Most guys probably wouldn't notice the difference, just saying that there is actually a difference other than the perches. Both will max out around 2.5 or 2.6
I am interested to know how this turns out as I am getting tired of the run around for the 4Runner specific kit. It seems the FJ kit is available at many locations on the web so I may be headed this route as well.
oljedi11950
New member
Don't ya mean kdss ? Why would you have bought with ? Isn't that like more expensive guys ? Not sure I understand this , know on older 4th gen yes xreas wears out & pretty easy change out . Hmmmm if you got it $$$$
Saker
Senior Member
I have found out that if your 6112's fail and need to be warrantied by Bilstein, you may run into warranty issue because the 6112 part # for the FJ was used on a NON-FJ after all part #'s for 4Runners have been changed/updated/revised (superseded).
YMMV
No it is a limited no KDSS. I did not buy it for the XREAS and the shocks and springs were not that much.
oljedi11950
New member
You keep referring to xreas ? 2 different systems
I know they are two different systems. I never mentioned KDSS the whole point of this thread was relating to removal of the XREAS shocks on a Limited.
