Bizarre 4Runner Failures - What's your Story?

[ghs215]

Starting a thread on bizarre 4Runner failures. Curious what others have encountered.

I'll start:

My wife was complaining of a loud squealing noise coming from the back of the runner when driving. I confirmed, indeed there was a horrid noise. But from where? Checked the rear brake and bearing play, seemed ok. I learned (google) that there was a e-brake drum in the rear (didn't know that). So I popped off the rear disc and the e-brake was hanging free and destroyed the drum! One of the two pins that hold everything together for the e-brake was missing!

After a few hours of trying to get it all back together with a new e-brake set, all was well again. Boy, we are spoiled with disc brakes!

 

[T4R2014]

The exhaust where it wraps over the axle got a small hole. It aimed right at the floorboard in the trunk, heating up the floor to the point of burning the carpet.

Two times already where the oxygen sensor came out the exhaust because the nuts securing it rusted off. Get this, the same bump but 10 years apart.

 

[trd_v8_sport]

merging onto the expressway heard a terrifying grinding noise out of nowhere. pulled over to find one of the heat shields corroded through and dropped partially on the driveshaft. a few tugs later i was on my way. :lmao:

 

[cassssias]

I was headed into the mountains back behind Great Sand Dunes National Park to camp on the "primitive trail" and had to rev my 2nd gen up a little high (only up to about 4,000 rpms) to get through a heavy sand pit when my cooling fan combusted into about 1,000 tiny pieces, denting the hood from the inside, piercing the radiator, destroying some electrical stuff, and making a nice loud noise. Luckily got out of the pit to a less sandy spot and got out to see steam pouring out of the engine bay, coolant gushing out, and plastic pieces everywhere. My friend (who is not a car gal) and I had to walk all the way back to the ranger station where I finally got service to try calling a tow truck but no one in the area was willing to get me out for under $1500, which is more than I bought the truck for. Finally some nice rangers helped tow me out, although their chevy and jeep both got stuck in (and got me stuck) the same sand pit where my 4runner exploded while trying to tow me through it. I had to get myself out with minimal coolant left and trying not to overheat while the two ranger vehicles helped each other out.

 

[Montego Murph]

merging onto the expressway heard a terrifying grinding noise out of nowhere. pulled over to find one of the heat shields corroded through and dropped partially on the driveshaft. a few tugs later i was on my way. :lmao:

I had something similar happen not too long after I bought mine. The front nut holding one of the heat shields had rusted through and anything over 30mph or so would cause it to "flap," beating back and forth between the driveshaft and the body. Was very happy to learn it needed 30 cents worth of fender washers and not a $3,000 drivetrain part.

 

[Uncle_Jim]

Front caliper locked.

Last spring while driving to work, violent shaking as I got off the ramp. I pulled over for a minute and took a peek at things. Didn't notice anything out of place so I started to drive again. Started shaking again as I pulled into work. I sniffed each wheel and got that 'cooking brakes' smell. Passenger side caliper locked up. New caliper, 4 pads and 2 rotors later, I was back on the road.
In August, coming home from a Friday dinner out with the Mrs...... I said "do you feel that shaking?". She confirmed that it was my imagination. I kept swearing that I felt it and she kept swearing I was nuts. Within a mile, wobble was worse and I pulled over. Drivers side front caliper had locked and was smoking. SO.... 1 more rotors, a new caliper and 4 pads.....for the second set of brakes in less than 6 months.

 

[Uncle_Jim]

4runner junk? Mine is.

I'm posting an update regarding my 4runner fail. My last 2 cars were Honda's. Got 278k and 305k on them.

I got a low mileage 04 4runner for a great price. Virtually zero frame rust. Pretty unbelievable for the age. Drove it for 2.5 years and no issues other than me putting on new rotors/ calipers / pads on the rear. All was good until May 2018 when things started to unravel.
10 months ago - rear tires

9 months ago - right front caliper locked up. Installed new rotors, pads and rt front caliper.

7 months ago - installed new front tires.

6 months ago - left front caliper seized. Once again...new rotors, pads and a left front caliper.

5 months ago - new tire sensor.

4 months ago - second tire sensor replaced.

4 months ago - and / vsc and engine light came on. Two trips to the garage for them to figure out the code and what was going on. Yes, charged for each visit.

4 months ago - Replaced the spark plugs in hopes of solving the cylinder 4 misfire.

4 months ago - After 4 days of running smoothly, started to misfire again. Off to the garage. Cylinder 4 misfire again.... ignition coil replaced.

Less than a week later.... battery light comes on and the car died on my way into the office. Alternator takes a dump. So that then gets replaced. Finally, fixed.

2 months ago - Routine oil change and the mechanic called me to look at the car. The left front strut was leaking bad enough to warrant replacing. Well, isn't the xreas sport suspension an expensive thing to fix. Decided to cut the hydraulic lines and go with standard kyb strut / spring assembly. Rear also got new shocks.

This week - checking fluids and noticed coolant had dropped. Hmmm. Took to dealership fearing a leaking head gasket. They performed a leak down test and compression test on each cylinder. Thank God I didn't need a new head gasket. I NEEDED DOUBLE HEAD GASKET JOB!!! WTF.

Looking at records, I've put just over $3470 into the vehicle over the last 10 months. No way can I justify $3350 more knowing that something else will break in a month. The best part is I still owe on it.

I'm trading it in tomorrow for a 2013 4Runner SR5, 2014 4Runner SR5 or a 2017 Frontier Pro-4x. I surely hope that what I choose won't financially kill me like the 04 did. I'm hoping that I just had a dud. Not a very good first time experience with Toyota. LOL

 

[KwonRunner]

2008 v6 sport @180k with mods. Had her since 35k. Last Feb I switch into h4 because of snow and get vsc off light on and trac lights flashing. Pulled a c1340 code for center diff. Long story short, dealer finds a prob with the hydroboost accumulator unit. After replacing, they call and let me know that they also found a problem with the transfer case and that I need to replace that too. They've had the rig since late Feb and keep updating me they are having issues. Told me director and foreman are on it...got a bad feeling about this.

 

[metramm]

KwonRunner,

Doing some digging regarding the C1340 code.

Not sure how a C1340 code was related to the hydroboost accumulator unit for the brakes.

Did you have any issues braking before? Pedal going to the floor? Not hearing the accumulator priming up?

According to this post Class Participation Time!

The C1340 code in the FSM relates to these systems:
DTC CODE: C1340
DTC DETECTION CONDITION: An open circuit is detected in the EXI circuit of the skid control ECU.
TROUBLE AREA: Harness or connector, Transfer system, Master cylinder solenoid (Skid control ECU)

It sounds like the dealer just jumped to the most expensive repair (and GUESSED it would be correct) instead of checking the physical connections and the master cylinder solenoid and doing additional troubleshooting.

Regarding the issue with the transfer case, did the did the dealer give you a print out of what exactly they say is wrong with the transfer case? To me it sounds like they are trying to take you for a ride.

If they did give you a print out of it, please post so we can review.

Please let us know how this turns out but I think a second opinion would be a good idea.

 

[djpope09]

I'm posting an update regarding my 4runner fail. My last 2 cars were Honda's. Got 278k and 305k on them.

I got a low mileage 04 4runner for a great price. Virtually zero frame rust. Pretty unbelievable for the age. Drove it for 2.5 years and no issues other than me putting on new rotors/ calipers / pads on the rear. All was good until May 2018 when things started to unravel.
10 months ago - rear tires

9 months ago - right front caliper locked up. Installed new rotors, pads and rt front caliper.

7 months ago - installed new front tires.

6 months ago - left front caliper seized. Once again...new rotors, pads and a left front caliper.

5 months ago - new tire sensor.

4 months ago - second tire sensor replaced.

4 months ago - and / vsc and engine light came on. Two trips to the garage for them to figure out the code and what was going on. Yes, charged for each visit.

4 months ago - Replaced the spark plugs in hopes of solving the cylinder 4 misfire.

4 months ago - After 4 days of running smoothly, started to misfire again. Off to the garage. Cylinder 4 misfire again.... ignition coil replaced.

Less than a week later.... battery light comes on and the car died on my way into the office. Alternator takes a dump. So that then gets replaced. Finally, fixed.

2 months ago - Routine oil change and the mechanic called me to look at the car. The left front strut was leaking bad enough to warrant replacing. Well, isn't the xreas sport suspension an expensive thing to fix. Decided to cut the hydraulic lines and go with standard kyb strut / spring assembly. Rear also got new shocks.

This week - checking fluids and noticed coolant had dropped. Hmmm. Took to dealership fearing a leaking head gasket. They performed a leak down test and compression test on each cylinder. Thank God I didn't need a new head gasket. I NEEDED DOUBLE HEAD GASKET JOB!!! WTF.

Looking at records, I've put just over $3470 into the vehicle over the last 10 months. No way can I justify $3350 more knowing that something else will break in a month. The best part is I still owe on it.

I'm trading it in tomorrow for a 2013 4Runner SR5, 2014 4Runner SR5 or a 2017 Frontier Pro-4x. I surely hope that what I choose won't financially kill me like the 04 did. I'm hoping that I just had a dud. Not a very good first time experience with Toyota. LOL

How many miles are on the 04? I ask because as old as it is now if it's nearing 200k miles it's not really unreasonable that the head gaskets failed. It's unfortunate, but you're not going to get a recall for an engine that old. They failed on my 04 last year at 189k miles. I'm just thankful they didn't fail under 100k miles like some others had.

And what is a double head gasket job? Do you mean replacing both head gaskets? Because that's what you should do even if only one head gasket is leaking. Otherwise you'll end up like with your calipers and have to do the job twice when the other side fails.

Tires are a wear item, you can't really count those as being a "dud" unless you bought bad tires or your alignment is off which would cause them to wear faster. And the xreas is a hydraulic system, it's going to leak eventually.

I'm not trying to be rude or anything, just giving my perspective. I think the lesson I have learned with my 04 is that I need to work on my own vehicles. Taking a 15 year old vehicle to the shop for every little thing will bankrupt you. For example, you could have diagnosed the cylinder 4 ignition coil by just taking an hour or two to swap plugs and coils around to different cylinders. It's also possible that the cylinder 4 misfire was an early indicator of the leaking headgasket.

It sounds to me like you got the two main problems that a lot of the early 4th gens had, which are the head gaskets and brake calipers. The rest of those items are expected to break eventually. Luckily this forum has a massive amount of knowledge and the people here are extremely helpful.

 

[Ed_C]

On a GX470. Parents called me saying they heard a large clunk on their way home from shopping. I check it out and noticed the driver front ride height was noticeably lower than the passenger side.

Bottom one is the strut from that corner and top is a OEM 4Runner. The lower spring perch rusted off. Gotta love the brine NJDOT spreads on the roads during the wintertime. I replaced both front corners with pre-assembled units and gave them a thorough coating of Fluid Film.

 

[lightfreak]

2008 v6 sport @180k with mods. Had her since 35k. Last Feb I switch into h4 because of snow and get vsc off light on and trac lights flashing. Pulled a c1340 code for center diff. Long story short, dealer finds a prob with the hydroboost accumulator unit. After replacing, they call and let me know that they also found a problem with the transfer case and that I need to replace that too. They've had the rig since late Feb and keep updating me they are having issues. Told me director and foreman are on it...got a bad feeling about this.

I've attached the diagnostics steps for the C1340 code.
I would probably take it to an independent shop that specializes in Toyota at this point.

 

[KwonRunner]

KwonRunner,

Doing some digging regarding the C1340 code.

Not sure how a C1340 code was related to the hydroboost accumulator unit for the brakes.

Did you have any issues braking before? Pedal going to the floor? Not hearing the accumulator priming up?

According to this post Class Participation Time!

The C1340 code in the FSM relates to these systems:
DTC CODE: C1340
DTC DETECTION CONDITION: An open circuit is detected in the EXI circuit of the skid control ECU.
TROUBLE AREA: Harness or connector, Transfer system, Master cylinder solenoid (Skid control ECU)

It sounds like the dealer just jumped to the most expensive repair (and GUESSED it would be correct) instead of checking the physical connections and the master cylinder solenoid and doing additional troubleshooting.

Regarding the issue with the transfer case, did the did the dealer give you a print out of what exactly they say is wrong with the transfer case? To me it sounds like they are trying to take you for a ride.

If they did give you a print out of it, please post so we can review.

Please let us know how this turns out but I think a second opinion would be a good idea.

Thanks man. Lots of good memories with that rig.

Did you have any issues braking before? Just a subtle shudder/vibration when braking at slow speed when in h4 in the snow that weekend. That was something new.

Pedal going to the floor? Nope, nothing like that. If so, I didnt notice.

Not hearing the accumulator priming up? No, never noticed not hearing that brake swoosh. A sound I'm very used to.

Long story is, I had my trusty local mechanic run through the diagnostics before taking her to the dealer. My mechanic was able to rule out any connection issues and concluded it was either the 4wd actuator or ecu. Mentioned maybe having to open the transmission up so they recommended I go to the dealer or transmission shop. Decided with dealer hoping they would know more. Dealer service tech also ran through all the diagnostics and ended up on the master cylinder. If you follow the diagnostics for that code, the last thing you end up on is that it's a problem with the brake master cylinder. That is my guess as to how they decided it was the hydroboost. The initial "action plan" report I got states that they "found an internal fault in the hydroboost unit." Just copied and pasted below:

1. CUSTOMER STATES THAT WHEN IN 4 HI, VSC OFF
LIGHTS FLASH AND TRAC LIGHT TURNS ON. WHEN
SWITCHING BACK TO 2WD, THE LIGHTS WILL STAY ON
TILL IGNITION IS CYCLED. CUSTOMER HAD
INDEPENDENT SHOP CHECK AND PULLED A CODE C1340.
CHECK AND REPORT

REPLACE THE HYDROBOOST UNIT ASSY. (FOUND AN
INTERNAL FAULT IN THE HYDROBOOST UNIT.)

From there, it's been downhill. It seems that they were not able to clear the lights or error after replacing the hydroboost. After a few days of trying to figure it out, the advisor called me and let me know that the tech found that it is a bad transfer case. I never got a printout or "action plan" for the transfer case issue as I did with the initial inspection and results. Thinking back, that is something I should have done. Advisor promised a call by Friday, today, for an update. It sounds like they have a lot of notes as they are trying to figure things out.

Update** Supposedly truck is back together but not ready. Reason given is they want to get a "Toyota rep" to come look at it. What in the world is a toyota rep and why or what he needs to look at, no clue? Sounds like the service director and foreman aren't giving the advisor too much details or the advisor has no clue. They will now update me Monday...

 

[rdruss]

Have an '03 V8 Ltd, bought used 5 years ago. Was noticing rust colored spots on garage floor after driving in rain and/or snow. First found front factory skid plate rusted very badly, partially eaten up with rust, removed and tossed.
Found gas tank skid in similar condition, removed, tossed and replaced with RCI.
Then noticed frame was rusted under passenger side door and that water was dripping out of a small rust hole. Poked around with screw driver and had a bigger rust hole. Discovered water was coming from the A/C hose in engine compartment coming out of firewall, it had a molded in angle downward that discharged water right on top of the frame and the water would run down the frame to a point under the passenger side front door, collect and drip on floor.
I bought a plastic hose connector inserted in factory hose, connected a 5/16" length of rubber hose to it and relocated the end to pass side front wheel well where the water now just drips on the floor/ground.
Am convinced this was source of frame rust as driver side is fine.
see my garage for pictures.

 

[lightfreak]

If you ever get all these symptoms all at once:

Remote fobs don’t work
Homelink buttons don’t work
Gauge Cluster lights out
Erratic needle movements on the gauge cluster

Don’t waste a weekend with your multimeter combing every inch of your car like I did. Look at your dome light.
Then go replace the 10A Dome fuse in the engine bay. It’s blown.

 

[Kiwisan]

No mechanical issues with my ‘00 SR5 so far

But it has been an electrical shitshow. Won’t bore anyone with a full list, but my latest disaster was when my inst. panel bulbs quit working (just the bulbs for the tac/speedo/gas gauge) along with my dimmer switch.. looking on here, the VERY first thing I found said I should check my tail lights, and then my fuses. Had my lights switched to “on” and checked, and all lights in he rear seemed fine, so what did I do? Checked all relevant fuses EXCEPT my tail fuse, because Hey.. they work. Well, after buying new LEDs for the three dash bulbs and yanking everything apart, while considering buying a new dimmer switch in case that had something to do with it, I thought to myself maaaaybe I should check that one fuse, just to cover all my bases.. son of a *****!! Well, swapped out the sure-as-hell blown tail 10 amp mini with my LAST spare.. started her up, and as soon as I touched the dimmer I literally heard the new fuse pop. Went and bought more fuses. Pop.. POP! Then, randomly, I remembered “hey, you had he tailgate torn open the other day to disconnect the electrical to the liftgate lock because of that stupid issue of it not wanting to stay locked when you hit the FOB.. There’s no way that could have anything to do with it tho, right?” Well, pulled the tailgate apart again to reluctantly plug my liftgate lock actuator back in (those things are a ****ing nightmare to unplug, at least in third gens,) threw in a new fuse, and LET THERE BE LIGHT!!!! I welcome any and all “you dumb dumb” retorts.