Brake Job Didn’t Go As Expected

[luke87gt]

Hi guys,

I’ll start off by saying that I’ve been working on cars for over 20yrs and completed in the ballpark of 12-15 complete pad/rotor changes in the past on everything from classic muscle cars to modern domestic/foreign cars. I’ve never had any major issues.

The brakes on my 2006 4Runner (which I bought in 2015) started growling recently. I ordered the Centric pad/rotor kit on Rockauto which came out to $270 or so with coupon.

Today, I get into the garage and start working. I start with the passenger rear. Everything goes smooth, rotors/pads replaced, slide pins greased... took about 45min. I never had to touch the e-brake assembly.

I then transition to the drive side rear. I get the calipers and caliper brackets off only to find that the rear rotor won’t budge. There’s zero movement, rotor seems fused to the hub.

I pound it with a heavy rubber mallet, no progress. I can rotate the rotor freely so I conclude that the e-brake can’t be that tight against the inside of the rotor. I decide to loosen the e-brake anyway with a plan to rotate the star wheel under the rotor.

Guess what? The hole in the rotor is misaligned with the hole in the hub that allows you to access the star wheel with a screwdriver. I’m scratching my head wondering how the rotor that’s on the car doesn’t have a hole aligned with the hub?

I spent 2.5hrs trying to figure this out before giving up and putting it back together again with new pads on the old rotor.

Taking the car into our local Japanese auto mechanic this week and going to let them deal with it.

I have no idea what brand rotors were installed by the previous owner but was pretty surprised to find that this rotor did not have holes for the star-wheel to release the inner shoes.

Has anyone heard of anything like this before??

 

[Arnezie]

First of all did you try any PB blaster or anything similar?


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[luke87gt]

Where would you spray PB Blaster?

 

[vipergrhd]

Bfh

Rubber mallet,really? Get a real hammer and like someone mentioned soak it with PB blaster or something similar who cares if you dented the old rotor it's going to trash anyway so go back in there and start over get a heavy ballpeen hammer or something similar. About the missing slot for the adjustment it's possible that it wasn't machined properly.

 

[02SE]

Where would you spray PB Blaster?

Where the rotor sits on the hub.

Yeah, a rubber mallet won't cut it in this situation.

 

[85GT-79FJ40]

Rubber mallet.... A real hammer will do the trick 95 percent of the time. I did rotors/pads on the back of my 11 today. Rotors were a bit stubborn but a few whacks with my trusty composite ball peen hammer and off they came. I will also say that I have now gone to install 2 different sets of aftermarket pads on the rear of this truck and both times the clips provided with the pads (first set brembo, this set was advance auto ceramic) have not fit worth crap. Glad I kept the originals.

 

[luke87gt]

Thank you for the reply guys...

I think I may have really underestimated how much force may be needed here.

YouTube

When you strike, do you strike the hat between the studs or do you strike the pad surface?

Also, how heavy of a hammer do you think will be sufficient for the job? 2lb ball peen?

 

[Gclark949]

What about the jacker outer threaded holes. Usually rotors have two threaded holes (like M8 or something) to jack it off. I normally use those and don’t bother with a hammer.

 

[luke87gt]

I looked but don’t recall seeing any threaded holes in the rotor.

What size are these bolts when threads exist?

 

[5Sport]

PB Blaster around the hub. That is where it is prob fused. Use a 5lb mallot. Rubber won't do it. You need to break free the rust. When you reassemble clean off all the rust with a wite brush and apply anti seize around the hub. I just did my brakes and it is always an issue. I usually pull the tire off when I buy them new and apply anti seize.

 

[Space King]

...
Guess what? The hole in the rotor is misaligned with the hole in the hub that allows you to access the star wheel with a screwdriver. I’m scratching my head wondering how the rotor that’s on the car doesn’t have a hole aligned with the hub?
...

How's that again?
There's no hole through the rotor, on any road-going vehicle that I've seen, that allows access to the emergency/parking brake adjuster.

The only access hole that comes to mind, is the one through the splash plate. Is that what you're talking about?

 

[Jivewalker]

I replaced all 4 rotors at 140k. I used the threaded holes to push the rotors off, no hammering. The rear assembly comes off a little harder because of the e brake, but it came off with a little force. Then, tighten up the ebrake before reinstall.

 

[KWSRStorm]

YouTube

2 min mark. Goes over where the 2 bolt holes are that you can use spare m8 bolts to push the rotor off. Definately use pb blaster though.

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[Auntie Soshul]

The OP is replacing brakes on a 2006 4Runner. Shouldn’t this thread be in the 4th Gen section?

 

[Sp00ner]

Yea, if those rotors aren't going back on, start with small taps of a solid hammer as you turn the rotor slightly and increase the force till it comes off, especially if they're that old or have been that hot before.

My 6th gen Camaro would always have at least one rotor nearly fused on after a season of track duty that would need some 'suggestions' to break free. They'd get changed once a year and even then you'd need the trusty old hammer.

 

[Toffees]

What about the jacker outer threaded holes. Usually rotors have two threaded holes (like M8 or something) to jack it off. I normally use those and don’t bother with a hammer.

 

[P_nlsn]

Guess what? The hole in the rotor is misaligned with the hole in the hub that allows you to access the star wheel with a screwdriver. I’m scratching my head wondering how the rotor that’s on the car doesn’t have a hole aligned with the hub?

If the PO did a 5th gen brake swap, that might explain the misalignment of the holes. When I was researching about doing my 5th gen brake swap, I remember reading how the rear 5th gen rotors have the access hole in a slightly different position than 4th gen rotors, and that it's recommended to keep using 4th gen rotors in the back to ensure the holes line up