Tell me if I have it right, keep res at max mark, right rear first, left rear, then right front and left front, do with engine off ignition key on, pump a few times hold pedal down, open bleeder with hose attached to small jar, end under level of extra fluid placed in jar. Only leave key on when bleeding and turn off as soon as possible. At end with key off, pump pedal min of 40 times. Finally top off fluid and make sure not has spilled on paint work. Whew.
bleeding brakes
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greasefingers
New member
I replaced my front pads but did not bleed the brakes. I never do unless the brake line is open to the atmosphere. I do siphon the master cylinder down and replace that reservoir twice a year.
Light_Mania
New member
That sounds like you have the general principles down. Better than pumping the brakes is to use a pressure bleeder like the Motiv product, but for just the occasional bleed job pushing the pedal is fine. If the car is fairly old, there is the possibility of a wear lip havin formed in the master cylinder which can tear the seals when the pedal is pushed past its normal travel, but this is not a common problem.
Its a good idea to flush the brake fluid every couple of years because it will absorb moisture, lowering its boiling point and increasing the likelihood of brake failure under repeated sustained braking (i.e. extremely hot brake calipers). Moisture in the brake fluid will also allow corrosion to master and slave cylinders over time.
Its a good idea to flush the brake fluid every couple of years because it will absorb moisture, lowering its boiling point and increasing the likelihood of brake failure under repeated sustained braking (i.e. extremely hot brake calipers). Moisture in the brake fluid will also allow corrosion to master and slave cylinders over time.
I'm bleeding the brakes this weekend and if I find anything unusual I'll post it. I do know that mositure in brake fluid leads to expensive maintenance down the road.
As I understand it, when you have the key on you don't have to pump the pedal to do the rear brakes, that the system will try to maintain pressure with a pump build into the system. And while you're doing it you will hear a beep when the fluid drops too low.
As I understand it, when you have the key on you don't have to pump the pedal to do the rear brakes, that the system will try to maintain pressure with a pump build into the system. And while you're doing it you will hear a beep when the fluid drops too low.
Lonnie said:
Your info is not quite right. This applies to the 2001 and 2002 4Runner with the hydraulic brake boosters. To use the brake pedal method to bleed the brakes, you must have the key to ON to get any flow out of the rears, but you still have to push the pedal to get any fluid to come out. With the key in the OFF position, if the pressure from your brake fluid accumulator is already bled off, you will not get flow from your rear bleeders no matter how hard you press the pedal down. Again, this only applies to 2001 and 2002 4Runners (maybe 4th gen also... I'm not sure - basically any 4Runner that doesn't have a vacuum actuated brake booster)
That being said, a more efficient way to bleed your brakes is to build this cheap bleeder tool from my writeup here.
On my LC, when you turn the ignition on, you hear the brake booster pump go for maybe 30 sec or less. From what the tech at the dealer told me, you just hold the brake pedal down w/ ignition on to bleed the rears while the fronts are done using the traditional pumping method. Shouldn't the pump keep on pumping fluid out the rear calipers (trying to maintain line pressure) as long as there is fluid in the resevoir?I haven't tried it w/ this newer type of booster/master (have only bled brakes w/ the old vacuum booster).
The manual says if you pump rapidly on the brake about 40 times, you'll notice the the strokes become longer and slower as the pressure is released in the system (this is with ignition off, all bleeders shut). It seems if you do this, you can theoretically bleed all wheels using the traditional pumping method?
The manual says if you pump rapidly on the brake about 40 times, you'll notice the the strokes become longer and slower as the pressure is released in the system (this is with ignition off, all bleeders shut). It seems if you do this, you can theoretically bleed all wheels using the traditional pumping method?
Getting closer. In our hydraulic brake system, with the ignition "OFF", you will still have power assist braking for 20 or 40 pumps of the brakes, unitl the accumulator pressure goes down to zero, so until that point, you will get fluid coming out of the rear brakes when you open the bleeder and pump the pedal, however, by opening the bleeder, you are displacing much more fluid than when you pump the brakes with the bleeder closed, therefore instead of 20 or 40 pumps, you may only get 1 or 2 pumps.Jim_Chow said:
After the pressure in the accumulator is down to zero, there is zero pressure going to the rear brakes when you push the pedal down, but you still have full front brakes. At this point, the pedal will be solid very near the top of the stroke (you won't be able to push the pedal down very far).
With the ignition key to "ON", you will always get pressure to the rears when the pedal is pushed down, so that is the only way to fully bleed the rear brakes (with the key to ON), unless you use a vacuum bleeder, or a pressure bleeder that pressurizes the master cylinder reservoir itself.
yotarunner
New member
Help
Will someone just tell me what I need to do to bleed my brakes on my 4runner 2004 sport 4x4.
Do I just put the ignition to ON and star bleding my brakes ...
I just want to make sure i do it right ...
Thank you in advance ...:awais:
Will someone just tell me what I need to do to bleed my brakes on my 4runner 2004 sport 4x4.
Do I just put the ignition to ON and star bleding my brakes ...
I just want to make sure i do it right ...
Thank you in advance ...:awais:
greasefingers
New member
1- with the ignition off, pump the brake pedal more than 40 times.
2- Turn the ignition on, wait for the electronic pump to turn off (30 to 40sec)
3- With the ignition still on, pump the brakes more than 20 times.
4- Connect tubing to bleed valve
5- With ignition on, pump the brake several times, with the pedal down, loosen the bleed until the fluid starts to slow down. Tighten bleed screw and release brake pedal. Repeat as needed. Constantly check fluid level in master cyl reservoir.
Now two things from the above are strange to me. 1- that you have the sh_t out of the brakes. 2- that the manual states to bleed the right front, left front, right rear, and finally left rear.
I was always told to start with the longest line first the right rear and then the left rear, then the right front, and finally the left front.
2- Turn the ignition on, wait for the electronic pump to turn off (30 to 40sec)
3- With the ignition still on, pump the brakes more than 20 times.
4- Connect tubing to bleed valve
5- With ignition on, pump the brake several times, with the pedal down, loosen the bleed until the fluid starts to slow down. Tighten bleed screw and release brake pedal. Repeat as needed. Constantly check fluid level in master cyl reservoir.
Now two things from the above are strange to me. 1- that you have the sh_t out of the brakes. 2- that the manual states to bleed the right front, left front, right rear, and finally left rear.
I was always told to start with the longest line first the right rear and then the left rear, then the right front, and finally the left front.
greasefingers
New member
This is from a 2003 Factory Repair Manual Vol 2, page 32-5 to 32-7. I have a Sport v8, but I do not think that matters?
yotarunner
New member
Thank you all, I'm going to bleed my brakes this weekend, if weather permits ......
I was just a little confused about bleeding the brakes with ABS systems ..... but I'm good to go and I'll let you all know my results ...
:bigok:
I was just a little confused about bleeding the brakes with ABS systems ..... but I'm good to go and I'll let you all know my results ...
:bigok:
Pressure Blake Bleeder Procedures
2001 4-Runner
Good thread -- I made a similar pressure bleeder using a 1.5"x1.25" Fernco flexible fitting, 1.25" x 3/4" PVC bushing with thread, 3/4" blk iron thd'd nipple, 3/4" x 1/4" blk iron reducing thd'd elbow, and 1/4" x 3/8" reducing bushing for the air fitting. This is just what was available at Ace Hardware to make it happen. Just had to cut off the thick end portion of the Fernco flexible fitting to make it clamp down to the brake fluid reservoir.
(1) With key off, pressed on the brakes for 40+ times until de-pressurized.
(2) Poured new brake fluid in reservoir to top off (just over Max).
(3) Installed pressure bleeder on the reservoir. Made sure it had snug fit.
(4) Applied about 5-10 psi max. Only enough to do the job.
(5) Starting on passenger rear, began bleeding.
(6) Checking pressure between wheels to keep around 5 psi, worked from Driver Rear, Pass. Frt, Driver Frt.
(7) Removed pressure gear, and screwed on reservoir cap.
(8) With key on, let the pump build up pressure again (about 30 sec) and shut off.
(9) With key on, press brake pedal 20+ times until pump comes back on (beeping sound).
(10) Re-filled brake reservoir.
(11) Repeated steps 9 & 10 once more.
All done. The brakes have been fine ever since. Not the same easy program with other cars, so thought it would be good to post this procedure.
2001 4-Runner
Good thread -- I made a similar pressure bleeder using a 1.5"x1.25" Fernco flexible fitting, 1.25" x 3/4" PVC bushing with thread, 3/4" blk iron thd'd nipple, 3/4" x 1/4" blk iron reducing thd'd elbow, and 1/4" x 3/8" reducing bushing for the air fitting. This is just what was available at Ace Hardware to make it happen. Just had to cut off the thick end portion of the Fernco flexible fitting to make it clamp down to the brake fluid reservoir.
(1) With key off, pressed on the brakes for 40+ times until de-pressurized.
(2) Poured new brake fluid in reservoir to top off (just over Max).
(3) Installed pressure bleeder on the reservoir. Made sure it had snug fit.
(4) Applied about 5-10 psi max. Only enough to do the job.
(5) Starting on passenger rear, began bleeding.
(6) Checking pressure between wheels to keep around 5 psi, worked from Driver Rear, Pass. Frt, Driver Frt.
(7) Removed pressure gear, and screwed on reservoir cap.
(8) With key on, let the pump build up pressure again (about 30 sec) and shut off.
(9) With key on, press brake pedal 20+ times until pump comes back on (beeping sound).
(10) Re-filled brake reservoir.
(11) Repeated steps 9 & 10 once more.
All done. The brakes have been fine ever since. Not the same easy program with other cars, so thought it would be good to post this procedure.
Krazynative
Member
Wow this is an old thread!!!
For just bleding brakes there is an esier way... Just install Speed Bleeders. They are spring loaded and alow you to do it yourself. I have these on my RX7 and save a lot of time. I even used these to change my fluid from DOT3 to DOT4 low moisture.
I followed "greasefingers" method. I did the same on each wheel. the first took the longest (tip: use a gallon container as a receiver for the old oil). The front wheels were empty of oil and full of air, no wonder I had no front braking power. (tip: have plenty of oil on hand. I had to drop everything and run around town to get 3 more bottles. I used 3.5 bottles total). Tip: make sure to clean all brake fluid oil spills, they will rust and ruin anything they spill on.
Next job: change front shocks
Btw, I had to turn the front rotors, they were definitely warped. I'm considering the Tundra upgrade. My '04 Tundra has 151,000mi original brakes; Rotors and pads.
Good luck to ya all!:drummer:
Did My Bleed Job, but!!??
:wtf::wtf::wtf: I just fund out the front rotors are getting rusted. That can only mean that the pistons are not doing what they are supposed to :rant: So I'm going to go back in there and bleed just the front ones and hope that the problem is as simple as air in them. Otherwise I don't know what else would be causing the loss of pressure. :dammit:
:wtf::wtf::wtf: I just fund out the front rotors are getting rusted. That can only mean that the pistons are not doing what they are supposed to :rant: So I'm going to go back in there and bleed just the front ones and hope that the problem is as simple as air in them. Otherwise I don't know what else would be causing the loss of pressure. :dammit:
concordcarlos
New member
I can barely get anything to come out of the front brakes. I started with the passenger rear, then drivers side rear. Both front brakes are bleeding a tiny amount of fluid and then nothing at all...
bob3dsf
New member
@ concordcarlos
Was/is your bleeder plug stopped up with grime?
I just put OEM plugs back on my 2008 since my speedbleeders were leaking (!).
As per the FSM (for later 4th gen models) I bled the fronts first and the rears second. The order of which caliper doesn't matter just that fronts go 1st. (for late model 4th gens) I had the ignition ON and I pumped the pedal first. For the fronts you pump to bleed, for the rears, you can hold the pedal down and the system will pump the fluid (of course watch the master cylinder levels).
Someone mentioned the system giving a beep if the fluid gets low. Mine beeped at me, and I thought that might be the reason, but I immediately stopped and looked at my MC but I was only maybe half way to the minimum line, so evidently it gives you decent warning.
I made a 1-person bleeder like you can find all over youtube. Worked like a champ. I was disappointed by the speedbleeders....
Was/is your bleeder plug stopped up with grime?
I just put OEM plugs back on my 2008 since my speedbleeders were leaking (!).
As per the FSM (for later 4th gen models) I bled the fronts first and the rears second. The order of which caliper doesn't matter just that fronts go 1st. (for late model 4th gens) I had the ignition ON and I pumped the pedal first. For the fronts you pump to bleed, for the rears, you can hold the pedal down and the system will pump the fluid (of course watch the master cylinder levels).
Someone mentioned the system giving a beep if the fluid gets low. Mine beeped at me, and I thought that might be the reason, but I immediately stopped and looked at my MC but I was only maybe half way to the minimum line, so evidently it gives you decent warning.
I made a 1-person bleeder like you can find all over youtube. Worked like a champ. I was disappointed by the speedbleeders....