Blizzard Pearl Paint
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NoDak
Senior Member
lol when I was younger (before my wandering eye phase stopped) I would wax every decent sunday.
now that I don't give a shite, I haven't waxed a vehicle in like 10-20 years (but then again I don't keep them longer than 7-8 yrs)
and when I did wax I used eagle one carnuba in the tin can, but that was ages ago.
now that I don't give a shite, I haven't waxed a vehicle in like 10-20 years (but then again I don't keep them longer than 7-8 yrs)
and when I did wax I used eagle one carnuba in the tin can, but that was ages ago.
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Whatever kind the auto car wash uses. It's been 15 years since I hand waxed anything.
I've always heard a month before waxing new paint. Since T4R is built in Japan, they are surely over a month old. Think you'll find the polymers easier to use than the waxes - but from above statement you can tell I have no recent experience.
I've always heard a month before waxing new paint. Since T4R is built in Japan, they are surely over a month old. Think you'll find the polymers easier to use than the waxes - but from above statement you can tell I have no recent experience.
Whiplash Willy
New member
This is probley the worst place on the internet to ask for detailing advice, the majority here don't really care about automotive paint care, which is completely understandable considering what most users here use their 4Runners for.
Like others have said, there is no waiting period, and you can wax anytime, however there is a process you should go through before you throw wax over dirty/contaminated and marred paint. If you don't, you will just be sealing that stuff in.
There should be 4 steps when you wax on your vehicle:
1. Wash
2. Clay Bar (To remove paint contaminants)
3. Polish (To remove scratches/marring)
4. Wax or Seal (To seal and protect)
Even new cars paint isn't in great condition and ready to wax. Just think about what the vehicle has been through to get from the factory to the dealership, and you are in for real trouble if the dealer's "detailers" do the new car prep on your vehicle (Which basically consists them of dumping the vehicle in a vat of silicone spray or super glossy armor all...)
If you are interested in learning more about proper automotive paint care, the following link is a good resource:
Auto Detailing Facts, auto detailing Tips, How to detailing Guides, how to polish, how to wax, DIY detailing, do it yourself guides
Auto Geek Online Auto Detailing Forum
I have a new blizzard pearl limited. I washed it twice with dawn dishwashing liquid as mine did not need the clay bar. I then used the recommended zaino process. ZAIO for a base and then Z2 show car polish. Looks a lot better than new, very deep shine.
FWIW, you can wax every surface but soft rubber with the zaino. Keeps all black trim looking new.
FWIW, you can wax every surface but soft rubber with the zaino. Keeps all black trim looking new.
Cheers!
Member
You are suppose to wax no sooner than 6 weeks after the paint was applied. Seeing how 4runners take a boat across the pacific to get here, you are good to go when you get your new 4runner.
Personally I never polish unless you absolutely have to. I also do not use power tools, everything is done by hand.
I like to give it a good wash. 2 bucket method with dawn/palmolive dish soap.
The first layer I like to use:
Meguiar's M21 Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0
(since it's a sealant it's alcohol based, meaning you need to make sure the surface is wax free before starting)
I then let it dry and buff.
Next layer is a carnauba wax (a high quality one). The higher quality the longer it lasts. Yes the shine will be nicer with a higher end wax, but I choose a higher quality wax, so I only need to wax it every 4-5 months.
Depending on how much time/paitence you have, you can have 1 layer of carnuba wax, all the way to 10+ layers.
I usually do 2 layers of P21 wax.
Here is one of the best if not best guide on how to detail your car:
http://home.comcast.net/~michael.cohen1/Detailing_Hand_Book.pdf
good luck!
Also: for the guys who don't bother waxing your car, a nice thick wax will help with the trail pin striping. It won't stop a 1" diameter branch from scratching your car, but little branches won't scratch your clear coat.
lastly avoid automatic car washes that are not touch free like the plague. The worse are the ones that have spinning brushes. The best ones if you have to use automatic are the ones where you park your car, and the apparatus moves around you and cleans using high pressure.
One final thing, if you use the coin op booths, do not ever use the soap brush. That thing is littered with rocks and sand. All the car guys I know use it to clean their wheel wells and wheels.
Personally I never polish unless you absolutely have to. I also do not use power tools, everything is done by hand.
I like to give it a good wash. 2 bucket method with dawn/palmolive dish soap.
The first layer I like to use:
Meguiar's M21 Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0
(since it's a sealant it's alcohol based, meaning you need to make sure the surface is wax free before starting)
I then let it dry and buff.
Next layer is a carnauba wax (a high quality one). The higher quality the longer it lasts. Yes the shine will be nicer with a higher end wax, but I choose a higher quality wax, so I only need to wax it every 4-5 months.
Depending on how much time/paitence you have, you can have 1 layer of carnuba wax, all the way to 10+ layers.
I usually do 2 layers of P21 wax.
Here is one of the best if not best guide on how to detail your car:
http://home.comcast.net/~michael.cohen1/Detailing_Hand_Book.pdf
good luck!
Also: for the guys who don't bother waxing your car, a nice thick wax will help with the trail pin striping. It won't stop a 1" diameter branch from scratching your car, but little branches won't scratch your clear coat.
lastly avoid automatic car washes that are not touch free like the plague. The worse are the ones that have spinning brushes. The best ones if you have to use automatic are the ones where you park your car, and the apparatus moves around you and cleans using high pressure.
One final thing, if you use the coin op booths, do not ever use the soap brush. That thing is littered with rocks and sand. All the car guys I know use it to clean their wheel wells and wheels.
intense1776
New member
New car paint is cured in an oven. A 6 week waiting period is not needed. Body repair or new paint after the factory, wait as long as the painter recommends. Each paint (and climate) is different.
Polish is what gives the paint depth and shine. If you never polish, you will never see the paint at its best. Hand polishing is VERY difficult to get right. A high speed, dual action polisher, with a "Machine Polish" is the way to go.
Dish soap should be avoided at all costs. It can soften the clear coat at worst, and is not designed to have enough lubricity to safely remove contaminants from a delicate surface. Automotive specific washes from Mothers or Meguiars are a cost effective option. The best wash I've used is Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo.
Applying a sealant without polishing (at least) or clay+polish (optimal) is very risky. If there are contaminants left in the paint (there will be), you can do serious damage to the clear coat when the polisher or application pad picks up the contaminants and holds it in the pad while you rub it all over the car.
OP: Here is my advice-
Wash the car with Mother's car soap and a microfiber wash mitt with the little fingers. This will prevent dirt from being held against the paint while you clean (like a sponge will).
Clay bar the car using Mothers Clay Bar kit, available at Autozone/Pep Boys/ Kragen, etc.
If you are comfortable, and have a dual action polisher, polish the vehicle. If not, use something like "Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing lotion" to deep clean the paint. It is a non-abrasive cleaner that will be much safer to use by hand, and get very good results.
If you prefer a lower maintenance option, and are ok with losing some of the "depth" of your paint (for you, you may lose some of the pearl color and sparkle, and the paint will appear more white), use Klasse All In One Polish. If you apply the Klasse, and a coat of high quality carnuba wax, you will regain some of the depth lost with the sealant. This option will last over 3 months if cared for properly.
If you can wax once every couple of months, stay with the wax. Personally, my favorite is "DP Max Wax" (DP= Detailers Pro). VERY easy to apply. Second favorite is Meguiars number 26 Yellow wax. Sold at most auto stores, comes in a tan bottle. Apply as many coats as you like, but 1 is sufficient. This will last 1-2 months in most climates.
This link: Auto Detailing Facts, auto detailing Tips, How to detailing Guides, how to polish, how to wax, DIY detailing, do it yourself guides will provide detailed (no pun intended) instructions on how to accomplish each step of the process properly.
My experience- 4 years as a professional detailer, specializing in fire apparatus and emergency vehicles, and 13 years as a hobbyist detailer.
BrianSD_42
New member
Never use dish soap.
Boardmember
New member
Since others are dropping brand names, I will mention Griot's Garage. Go to their web site. Lots of quality car care products that I've used for years. Advice too.
Lexusbstrdchild
New member
The reason [MENTION=125590]Rmack[/MENTION] said to use dish soap is because Zaino recommends when you start using their product, to use Dawn for the first time, not a regular thing, to help remove contaminants, then clay bar, then their polish, then sealer. In between no absolutely do not use dish soap ever. I am sure that is what he meant.
Exactly. Only use dawn to clean prior to base coat of sealer / wax etc. on a brand new vehicle. I too have detailed cars for years. Should have made my post more clear, but was trying to answer the OP's direct question.
I always check / inspect the surface of a brand new vehicle before deciding on using clay. Clay is a wonderful product, but overused in my opinion.
intense1776
New member
Out of curiosity, why do you feel it is overused?
May be just a regional thing, but I know people / shops who recommend clay bar without even inspecting the paint job. Probably does no harm, but is labor intensive if unnecessary. If doing an upscale detail it is a no brainer, but on a brand new car I do not see the need unless an inspection shows otherwise. There are awesome products that will also lay a base coat of polish down and easily clean light grime etc.
Just my personal opinion. In no way knocking the product as I use it and like it. Just seems to be a "must" for some folks, I am just of a different opinion.
Cheers!
Member
Agreed on the dawn soap for initial outlay before adding in fresh sealer and wax. This is what I had originally posted.
Also to the comment about dish soap harming clearcoat, this is the first I have ever heard of this. Is there a reference somewhere about this?
I used to be a Zaino user too, but found that a nice sealant and P21 wax to be my favorite combo.
I have previously owned small sedans and sports cars before. I can't imagine how long it would take to clay bar a 4runner. It too me forever just to wash, seal, and 2 coats of wax the 1st time. It was 4x times longer than my s2000!
Also I could barely reach the middle of the roof, and I'm 5'9" tall.
Also to the comment about dish soap harming clearcoat, this is the first I have ever heard of this. Is there a reference somewhere about this?
I used to be a Zaino user too, but found that a nice sealant and P21 wax to be my favorite combo.
I have previously owned small sedans and sports cars before. I can't imagine how long it would take to clay bar a 4runner. It too me forever just to wash, seal, and 2 coats of wax the 1st time. It was 4x times longer than my s2000!
Also I could barely reach the middle of the roof, and I'm 5'9" tall.
Not to derail the op (too much), but I just had the truck taken in for 10k checkup and asked about undercarriage treatment. They said they don't offer a service like that and then proceeded to tell me to go to the bed liner shop down the road...I'm thinking that's not what I'm looking for, but please correct me if I'm wrong. Should I be asking for something else, in specific?
