Blown Engine, Worth putting in a new one?
- Thread starter twcarroll
- Start date
One HUGE issue is that the market is currently flooded with "tsunami" engines (pun intended) and the other is that they all lie about mileage.
There are some good importers but lots are crooks - my experiences are that they will give you every excuse under the sun to get out of giving you warranty.
If you have a buddy who imports motors then sure, he's gonna take care of you - but for the average joe - you'll get the shaft.
walkman1911
New member
How much do you like you runner? I love mine to the point that when the motor goes im going to take about 6 months and about ten grand and drop an lbz duramax and an allison auto. That is after the SAS. Kind of a dream right.
charlie2640
New member
good info
got a 96, death by teenager, need a new engine...
son gave me good advice, don't let sentimental value cloud your judgement.
(I know its a late post. dealing with this 15 post before I can start a thread stupid dumbshit)
got a 96, death by teenager, need a new engine...
son gave me good advice, don't let sentimental value cloud your judgement.
(I know its a late post. dealing with this 15 post before I can start a thread stupid dumbshit)
TorqueOfTheDevil
Member
always worth fixing.
I removed a perfectly good reliable engine from mine to swap it.
Obvious time for a V8.
I removed a perfectly good reliable engine from mine to swap it.
Obvious time for a V8.
poleclimber63
Member
my situation... 2yrs ago
I had a rod failure back in 2014 and I went JDM for $1500 shipped. My experience was really positive. If you're able do do the work yourself, it's not hard but having the right tools will make your experience way more pleasant! I'm done Making due so I invested maybe $300 in tools- cherry picker, engine stand and wobble sockets and gear wrenches. When I was a kid, making due was the challenge, not now! As far as the engine is concerned, I had a good experience using JDM, but some haven't. Some have had luck with regular junkyard engines, others haven't. You'll have to decide how much risk you are interested in taking---- from zero having one installed with a warranty for $$$$, or junkyard stuff for a few hundred. I would have done this when I was 20, as my labour is cheap, but now I didn't relish the idea for having to do the job twice...
I had a rod failure back in 2014 and I went JDM for $1500 shipped. My experience was really positive. If you're able do do the work yourself, it's not hard but having the right tools will make your experience way more pleasant! I'm done Making due so I invested maybe $300 in tools- cherry picker, engine stand and wobble sockets and gear wrenches. When I was a kid, making due was the challenge, not now! As far as the engine is concerned, I had a good experience using JDM, but some haven't. Some have had luck with regular junkyard engines, others haven't. You'll have to decide how much risk you are interested in taking---- from zero having one installed with a warranty for $$$$, or junkyard stuff for a few hundred. I would have done this when I was 20, as my labour is cheap, but now I didn't relish the idea for having to do the job twice...
frodiesel
New member
Yup, every toyota dealer gets an avalon every now and then that the customer never changed the oil. They can go anywhere from 30-60k until they explode if you dont change the oil.
T4R2014
Elite Member
JDM engine time. Get it from JDM Engine Zone, not JDM Engine Depot. The depot is shady as hell.
Scramble
New member
We get lots of bots & spam here.
We also encourage searching old threads. What ever your question is, it's already been discussed here. No need to start a new thread for every question. Plus we like reading through old threads! :becky:
I had my 3RZ rebuilt by my neighbor & old mechanic (he closed his shop & works for someone else now which blows) & it's still running fine after 3 years & 17,000 miles.
charlie2640
New member
. Please excuse my whining.
Kram1976
New member
JDM vs. Junk Yard engine
I have done two now one in my 1996 Limited that overheated on the previous owner from a bad aftermarket T-stat. I could not disprove his theory but just suspect shoddy repair work because it happened right after he put in a new stat and radiator. I boiled the T-stat and it opened right when it was supposed to. Anyways he let it sit in his driveway for 2 years and thats when I got it and how I got it.
I installed a JDM engine and it is absolutely the best way to go. I do have some advice on the JDM engines though. They are not all the same. I was fortunate and had 5 JDM shops to choose from when I bought mine so they were wiling to go the extra mile for my business.
I chose first on looks of the engine. I wanted one that all rubber and plastic parts looked new. I found three like this and then started with internals. I brought my leak down tester and went to work. Fortunately the first one I looked at had near perfect test results 3-5% leakage only. This is by far the best test you can do to determine how the engine was treated and how many miles are on the truck. I had to ask the owner of the shop nicely to borrow his air source to do this but any GOOD shop will let you do this test before you leave.
Once you get the JDM Motor home you have to strip it down because you must use all of the US spec engine components. Your are going to be tempted to just drop it in because it looks so much better than your old tired 5vz but don't do it here is why.
Whats different from JDM to US spec:
EGR Valve stuff
Accessories drive pulleys so all Accessories are different but can be made to work if you swap the pulleys from your USS.
Oil Pan JDM= dual sump USS= front sump
exhaust manifolds
engine mounts
A/C mounting bracket
Harmonic Balancer
What is the same:
Block, heads, crank, rotating assy., flywheel, Lower intake manifold (some minor differences but just basic hose routing will work with UUS Upper and connections, Injectors, most of the sensors.
After swapping in my JDM I have had 0 issues and 0 check engine lights. Basically use the block like a LONG BLOCK and you can't go wrong.
Another option is the Junk yard route. I have done this also on a Tacoma and had good results. I bought what by all accounts checked out to be a 82,000K motor out of a 2004 rolled Tacoma Via vin checks and Odometer on the truck. I still did a leak down on it but the junk yard was a little weird about me doing it at there facility and I found out later why. The leak down results were not quite as good as the JDM at between 8-11%. compression still built up to near new numbers at 215-223psi. Engine ran great and I didn't have to do as much swapping of parts. The whole process can be documented and mileages can be verified which could be more marketable down the road if you go go sell it. For some reason People get all freaked out if a car is for sale with a JDM engine in it and feel it is not any good. Keep in mind this is a Genuine OEM engine built on the same line as your USspec motor just on a different day.
I have done two now one in my 1996 Limited that overheated on the previous owner from a bad aftermarket T-stat. I could not disprove his theory but just suspect shoddy repair work because it happened right after he put in a new stat and radiator. I boiled the T-stat and it opened right when it was supposed to. Anyways he let it sit in his driveway for 2 years and thats when I got it and how I got it.
I installed a JDM engine and it is absolutely the best way to go. I do have some advice on the JDM engines though. They are not all the same. I was fortunate and had 5 JDM shops to choose from when I bought mine so they were wiling to go the extra mile for my business.
I chose first on looks of the engine. I wanted one that all rubber and plastic parts looked new. I found three like this and then started with internals. I brought my leak down tester and went to work. Fortunately the first one I looked at had near perfect test results 3-5% leakage only. This is by far the best test you can do to determine how the engine was treated and how many miles are on the truck. I had to ask the owner of the shop nicely to borrow his air source to do this but any GOOD shop will let you do this test before you leave.
Once you get the JDM Motor home you have to strip it down because you must use all of the US spec engine components. Your are going to be tempted to just drop it in because it looks so much better than your old tired 5vz but don't do it here is why.
Whats different from JDM to US spec:
EGR Valve stuff
Accessories drive pulleys so all Accessories are different but can be made to work if you swap the pulleys from your USS.
Oil Pan JDM= dual sump USS= front sump
exhaust manifolds
engine mounts
A/C mounting bracket
Harmonic Balancer
What is the same:
Block, heads, crank, rotating assy., flywheel, Lower intake manifold (some minor differences but just basic hose routing will work with UUS Upper and connections, Injectors, most of the sensors.
After swapping in my JDM I have had 0 issues and 0 check engine lights. Basically use the block like a LONG BLOCK and you can't go wrong.
Another option is the Junk yard route. I have done this also on a Tacoma and had good results. I bought what by all accounts checked out to be a 82,000K motor out of a 2004 rolled Tacoma Via vin checks and Odometer on the truck. I still did a leak down on it but the junk yard was a little weird about me doing it at there facility and I found out later why. The leak down results were not quite as good as the JDM at between 8-11%. compression still built up to near new numbers at 215-223psi. Engine ran great and I didn't have to do as much swapping of parts. The whole process can be documented and mileages can be verified which could be more marketable down the road if you go go sell it. For some reason People get all freaked out if a car is for sale with a JDM engine in it and feel it is not any good. Keep in mind this is a Genuine OEM engine built on the same line as your USspec motor just on a different day.
Last edited:
scott_morris70
New member
Im in the same boat. Bought a 97 limited 4runner for cheap with 240k miles on it. low and behold it starts leaking antifreeze from the water pump. change water pump, timing belt tensioners thermostat ect and notice a thick build up on everything (head gasket sealer) put her all back together and now no more leaks but is burning about a quart of antifreeze a week. tested with a combustion tester and sure enough bad head gasket. big question is, run till it blows and swap out with one of the import 50k mile motors or rebuild.. i see them on ebay for around 900 to 1000 bucks. it still runs fine just dont know at 240k miles how much life is really left in her.
poleclimber63
Member
If you go JDM, keep that WP, timing belt and tensioners etc for your JDM, as you'll probably need them. Considering the mileage, consider bypassing the tranny cooler with a B+M cooler or change out the rad. Still a good truck as long as there's no rust. Good Luck, find my Replacement: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/167172-my-engine-swap-progress.html
JDM vs Junkyard engine
In the same boat here as well. I am in South Carolina. My buddy suggests I go with a crate engine, but most people on here prefer a junkyard engine or a JDM. I have a 2000 4runner 4x4 with 183,000 miles on it. It is California emissions-I know this because I replaced a cat last year. I assume I need to get a Cali emissions motor if I purchase a used one???
I don't really have the time or mechanical experience to replace my engine, but for what I have been quoted for labor, I believe I am about to learn how. Every shop wants $85-$100 per hour for labor. Besides that, I have a 24x24 building I can pull it into while I work on it.
In the same boat here as well. I am in South Carolina. My buddy suggests I go with a crate engine, but most people on here prefer a junkyard engine or a JDM. I have a 2000 4runner 4x4 with 183,000 miles on it. It is California emissions-I know this because I replaced a cat last year. I assume I need to get a Cali emissions motor if I purchase a used one???
I don't really have the time or mechanical experience to replace my engine, but for what I have been quoted for labor, I believe I am about to learn how. Every shop wants $85-$100 per hour for labor. Besides that, I have a 24x24 building I can pull it into while I work on it.
Tanis911
New member
Hate reviving old thread but need some serious advice. I have a 01 3rd Gen with 350K on the clock all original miles. Was cruising at about 60 mph. Went to pass another driver, stepped on the gas and got it to 70 mph when all of the sudden complete engine loss. No weird noises at the time or hard shakes, engine just died. All electrical was still good. Pulled off to the side of the road. Sat for a few minutes and started back up only now it had a P0340 code, Camshaft senor. When it started, is was the roughest idle I've seen. Whole block was shaking. Limped it all the way home, 40 miles away. No power but smooth shifting. Took it to a shop and they told me that the engine was no good, and probably not worth trying to isolate the issue and figure out what exactly happened, zero compression. recommendation was to replace the engine at $7k. Here's the question of the day, is it worth it to put in a used engine, or just go out an find something else? at $5k i would have been ok, but 7 seems to steep for this now.
phattyduck
Elite Member
Jumped timing belt? Especially if that "zero compression" is the same on all cylinders. The 5VZ is non interference - just replace the belt and keep motoring.
-Charlie
Tanis911
New member
That thought did cross my mind, but I have limited time and resources. Don't want to spend to much moving from shop to shop and pay diagnostics fees. since this was my daily, its even harder since i need to get some wheels quickly, and even the hoopties I'm finding are around 2-3k, "mechanic specials". i have a timing kit and head gasket kit that i was planning on putting in before all this happened, as regular maintenance. but that plan is shot. no garage and cold weather sucks sometimes.
Sparky 97Runner
New member
^This^ is exactly what I was thinking. I would at least spend a little time and check the timing before committing to new motor. Sudden zero compression and cam sensor code.
