Blown rear diff

muddertrucker99

New member
Just blew my first diff! The said part is i didn't do it wheeling. I believe im gonna get rid of the arb and go with someting different. What would you guys suggest An aussie or Detriot or elocker?
 
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I'm Seriously thinking about selling the arb now for the Detriot locker now. I'm gonna pull the diff tomorrow and see whats went wrong. I have a funny feeling that the chipped tooth has gotten bigger.
 
Got the diff pulled and found 10 teeth missing on the ring gear!

Called up Chase and ordered a new diff with 5.29 and detriot locker

What happened to your spider gears? Are you trying to turn like 37's or something, 5.29's are mad low for a road truck.
 
The 5.29's arent that bad on the 5spd! It didnt have have spiders in it. It just had the arb locker in it's place.

I seem to remember people saying that 5.29's are worse on a 5 speed (because you don't have overdrive for cruising on the highway).

What size tires do you have? They will need to be big (like at least 35's) to get decent driveability on the highway.

Here's some good info about highway driving...

I saw this on the front page again and figured I would chime in.

Okay, so here you go:

A/T, 5.29s, 33s. @ 80mph you will be pulling 3016rpms

A/T, 4.88s, 33s @ 80mph you will be pulling 2782 rpms

M/T, 5.29s, 33s @ 80mph you will be pulling 3663 rpms

M/T, 4.88s, 33s @ 80mph you will be pulling 3379 rpms

So, compare it to stock:

A/T 4.30 gears, 265s @ 80mph 2610rpms

A/T 4.10 gears, 265s @ 80mph 2489rpms

M/T 4.30 gears, 265s @ 80mph 3169 rpms

M/T 4.10 gears, 265s @ 80mph 3022 rpms

And, if you want to calculate it yourself, here you go:
Engine RPM Calculator

FWIW, I now run 37s with the new rig. Solid axles with Land Cruiser 3rds in each axle. 5.29s and I still have the auto. I installed the Supercharger when it was down for the build up.

So, my new current setup is running 2690 rpms & 80mph. The supercharger makes a major difference. And, the lack of having the front end turning 24/7 helps too. Without it I would be pretty unhappy with the setup though.

If you're running 265's on a manual with 5.29's, you will need to redline to get to 80mph. Even with 33's you will be revving way high at highway speeds. your mpg's will tank.

Sorry to sound negative, but better to find this stuff out before you install, when you can still return them.
 
hi,

what is the background of this post?

* what diff was blown - was it factory?
* how did you break it
* full truck specs

I am under the impression that the toyota diffs hold up to A LOT of wear.
 
My rear was had i small chip in the ring gear. It was an aftermarket setup and 4.88 with arb. When i trade the tacoma for it we swapped diff. cause he has 5.29 for the rear built. Its a long story.

The background on the diff Is setup by some local shop with 4.88 and arb. I got ticked off waiting on traffic tomove on and when i got an opening i floored then shifted to 2nd at 5k dumped itgrabbed hard then it was all down hill after that! Dont know what else you want to know!

But i had the best do my new diff! Chase from ECGS
 
My rear was had i small chip in the ring gear. It was an aftermarket setup and 4.88 with arb. When i trade the tacoma for it we swapped diff. cause he has 5.29 for the rear built. Its a long story.

The background on the diff Is setup by some local shop with 4.88 and arb. I got ticked off waiting on traffic tomove on and when i got an opening i floored then shifted to 2nd at 5k dumped itgrabbed hard then it was all down hill after that! Dont know what else you want to know!

But i had the best do my new diff! Chase from ECGS

I am not sure i understand. You are down-grading from an ARB air locker to a Detroit locker? Why would you do that?
 

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