Blue Sea ACR - Automatic Charging Relays

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I wanted to do a write up on two different Blue Sea ACRs I have been playing with recently and talk about experiences with them for my applications.

The two ACR units I have been using are the Blue Sea #7610 and #7611

These two units are excellent for smaller applications where one might not need the manual control or higher amp limits of their ML series.

You can find specifications for both these units here:

7610
https://www.bluesea.com/products/7610/SI-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12_24V_DC_120A

7611
https://www.bluesea.com/products/7611/BatteryLink_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12V_24V_DC_120A

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Both of these ACRs are pretty much identical except for their primary feature. The SI-ACR (7610) is their start isolation version. It offers the ability to wire a 12v+ trigger, like the starter, so you can instantly disconnect the aux battery during cranking.

The BatteryLink version (7611) has a feature called Auxiliary Battery Priority which essentially changes the open voltage threshold from 12.75 to 12.25v. You can have this wired into ignition so its always enabled when the car is running, but I have mine on a switch so I can control it manually... more on that later. I also understand if you wire this feature permanently on and don't have a dual battery setup, you can essentially use this as an LVD, but I have not tested that yet. More on that later, when I actually do another write up on LVDs as I am currently running a different one.

Each of those feature connections are located in the center of the ACR between the Ground (required) and the optional LED indicator.

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SI is a good feature if you want to protect sensitive electronics that might power-cycle during cranking. This also protects the ACR or circuit from having starting currents go though it. If the ACR is closed and SI isn't used it will participate in starting the truck.

The SI unit has one additional feature which is NOT included in the 7611 which is low battery voltage lockout. If either one of those cells are below 9.5 volts, it won't combine. Some may look at this as a Con, but I think its a Pro. If you ran down your aux battery or had an internal short, it would potentially bring down the starter battery leaving you stranded. This ACRs goal is to protect the healthy cell. I found this very appealing for an adventure/overland type truck. At least this way it gets you out of the truck to actually check the system before hitting a manual switch and forcing it like you can do with the ML series or busting out the jumper cables to self jump...

The 7611 was a solution to a problem that I was experiencing in my own setup.

The problem I was experiencing was under high load conditions with all my lighting on... the voltage drop was right at the 12.75 open voltage threshold and there were times the ACR would go open on me. The Aux Batt Priority feature was nice because I was able to lower that open voltage threshold by 0.5 volts, solving the issue I was having.

Because I wired the feature manually to a switch, it ended up proving to be very useful for my needs in other ways. Even with the engine off I could control the open voltage and choose if I want to keep more voltage in the starter, or force the starer to participate in feeding accessory loads down to 12.25v before the Aux takes over the show.

This turned out to be an awesome little way to get a bit of extra run-time for my ARB 50. I can leave it unattended for a lot longer than I would even realistically need, and the headroom was welcome on hot days or when actually running it as a freezer.

Even with a 12.25v open on the starer, I have plenty of juice to start the truck. I do miss the Low Voltage Lockout feature, but I think the trade off is great. I generally keep good tabs on my system and maintain it's health.

All of my packs are about 1 year old, healthy, and when testing I never had my electronics power cycle / reboot when cranking... but that doesn't mean it wont ever happen. With higher loads or fatigued packs, it might start happening which makes the SI feature very valuable depending on what your applications are. Having GPS or communications equipment go down would really irritate me.

One thing I like about my time with Blue Sea is the quality of the product, simplicity of design, and the documentation / spec sheets are fantastic...

I get happy when I see stuff like that. I even got excited when I saw a torque specification for the studs and screws on various products like fuse panels too. Attention to detail...I appreciate it, so I actually take the time to do it. Makes me feel I am building a quality system.

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I am excited to try an ML series when I have some higher amp requirements, and if anyone else knows of some other great ACRs for smaller systems that have special features please let me know... I am always curious to try other things, and I would be more than happy to buy/test/review for my own curiosity as well.
 
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So I will be running a CFX-35 which has LVD. I'm not concerned too much about pairing the batteries or using the aux battery to start vehicle as I want to mount a battery in the back. I would need pretty thick wire to the aux if I did correct?

What ACR should I be considering if I'm mainly concerned about charging the battery in back?

Also do you have to use the same or silicate batteries? Read that somewhere not sure if it's true.

I'm a NOOB to wiring in vehicles, any tips are much appreciated.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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You can do it however you like... worlds your oyster.

If you don't want large cable you have to rate limit the current that can flow back there... I've built a system for 5th Gen that basically used the stock wiring with a battery in the back to power a fridge. 100% unmodified oem electrical... we used a DC to DC charger instead of an ACR.

Your other thread you mentioned a lot more than just a fridge... why not LVD protect the entire thing? Only takes one mistake to ruin a battery. At least that way you have control and literally don't have to think about it.

Not sure what you mean by " I'm not concerned too much about pairing the batteries"... that's kind of the point of these ACRs. They "pair" the batteries together in parallel... they are not chargers.

The highest current situation in that system is probably going to happen during pairing. This is where you would have equalization current flowing between the full and depleted pack in addition to charge current from the alternator. It will peak but taper off. It really helps to have test equipment like a DC clamp meter so you can actually see what is going on. Pretty much mandatory if you want to do it right and check your work... regular DMM won't cut it for these types of projects.

Pro Tip: You can use an LVD to control equalization voltage by disconnecting higher.

Size the wire for the design and application... fuse to protect the wire... it's as simple as that.

Regarding not wanting to use the rear battery for starting the truck... I thought that would have been somewhat obvious based on my write up... You would want the start isolation version with the featured wired so it actually works. If you can't open the circuit during cranking, you WILL have starter current flowing through that cable unless you are already open from the disconnect threshold.

I recommend you review the spec sheets... all the information is there.
 
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Here is the dual battery system I use. The initial cost may seem high but you get dual battery isolation, DC-DC voltage conversion, multi stage charging , battery temperature sensor and a MPPT solar charge controller in one compact integrated unit

CTEK-250S Dual

CTEK%20D250S%20DUAL1450315018_1.JPG


d250s_dual_solar_charge_controller_4.jpg


Factory Blurb: The D250S DUAL is a fully automatic charger that supplies 20A to 12V batteries of 40–300Ah. It obtains its energy from DC sources (alternator, solar panels) and optimizes this power to meet the charging requirements of different battery banks. The D250S DUAL automatically selects the best connected DC energy source (of 2) for the purpose and switches between them to achieve high efficiency multi-stage charging. It is suitable for all types of lead-acid batteries (Wet, MF, Gel, AGM). Acts as a battery separator that eliminates diodes and VSR relays. Solar panel regulator with Maximum Power Point Tracking.
 
Thanks for the write up! Based on this I've chosen the 7610 for my setup. No need to the $200 ML-ACR!

I think I've got everything put together for my setup: battery, wiring, lugs, terminals, fuses, fuse block, circuit breaker, 7610, EXCEPT now I need a battery tray. I'd like to mount on passenger side wheel well, group 34. What have you used? What are my options that aren't $200 for a tray?
 
The battery tray search was also frustrating for me... I ended up using the Dirty Parts tray for my build. It was unnecessarily expensive, but it did work, and it appeared to be only solution I was able to find at the time.

I run the 7610 now in my Silverado, but the 7611 in my 4Runner.

My Silverado has some higher charge voltages off the alternator (high 13’s – 14v) and I never have issues, but with my 4Runner, I routinely see voltages in the mid 13s especially in hot weather, but under heavy load, I have actually been able to have the ACR open due to voltage drop which is why I went with the 7611 to be able to lower the open/disconnect point by 0.5 volts which I wired to a switch.

That said, I do NOT have an upgraded alternator, and is only an issue during heavy loads.

Already mentioned, 7611 allows you to stay combined to a lower voltage allowing via a switch, so for extended stay camping, the starter can feed the fridge up to a certain point as well and it has worked out really well for me because I don’t use AGM batteries and it reduces the punishment on the house battery.
 
[MENTION=6100]teotwaki[/MENTION]

The DC-DC systems are also awesome, if I ever go that route on another build with an AGM and regular starter in the same system, the CTEK is an awesome choice.

I just wish they opened support for different battery chemistry like lithium, or allowed for custom voltage set points.

I am working on a new project right now and I need a DC-DC that can go from 12 to 24v, but unfortunately the CTEK won't work out. Still search around for a solution...

Here are the batteries... they came out of a Fiat 500e electric car. Two should be able to run the fridge for a week...

RCv3HFd.jpg


4rYDDUR.jpg
 
I am working on a new project right now and I need a DC-DC that can go from 12 to 24v, but unfortunately the CTEK won't work out. Still search around for a solution...

How many Amps does the DC-DC need to source for your design? Just search ebay with "12 - 24 DC-DC boost converter"

example of a 10 Amp unit

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Boos...837652?hash=item3aaca8a914:g:UT0AAOSwT5xZPj9q


What are the specs on those Fiat batteries and can you share what you paid?
 
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How many Amps does the DC-DC need to source for your design? Just search ebay with "12 - 24 DC-DC boost converter"

example of a 10 Amp unit

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Boos...837652?hash=item3aaca8a914:g:UT0AAOSwT5xZPj9q


What are the specs on those Fiat batteries and can you share what you paid?

I am very familiar with those eBay / Amazon units but at times the quality can be a bit suspect. I was in search of a reputable brand like CTEK, Victron, or another company with a track for these types of things.

That said, I already have the solar part of the system figured out… Victron SmartSolar stuff looks pretty amazing. Custom voltage set points, low voltage disconnect, and consumption/charge monitors all via Bluetooth with a nice interface. I just wanted to be able to capture some of the alternator power for charging for obvious reasons.

The Bluetooth connection from the App looks like this…
https://www.victronenergy.com/blog/...tes/10/2015/03/VictronConnect-app-730x387.png

Those cells were given to me by a friend who builds DIY electric cars for a living, but at the time, was selling for around $100/kWh. These packs are ~1.5kWh, so they would have cost me $150 per battery. I should have stocked up when I had the chance, as that was a great price. I have seen them sell for around $300-400 each on eBay.

Voltages are right in line with your typical 18650 battery… 2.7v min / 3.8 nominal / 4.2 max per cell. It’s a 6 cell battery, so it has a max voltage of 25.5VDC per module. I still have to do load testing, but the 12 volt equivalent should be about 120-150 amp hours per module. I sure you already know you can take these packs down to 80% depth of discharge vs the 50% of a typical lead AGM. They also only weight about 28/lb each. https://i.imgur.com/LsCM3NS.jpg?1

They really pair perfectly with an ARB fridge without any additional electronics because the ARB had a built in low voltage disconnect, which also happens to be the main thing I am wanting to use these cells with.

The average load of the fridge is about 30-50 watts when running, and with about 3kWh of capacity for BOTH modules, that would run the fridge for 60-100 hours continuous. Figure in with the duty cycle of the fridge, it may just last about a week or so. I probably wouldn’t even need to charge it over a simple weekend trip even if I just used one module but I would like the ability to top it off when driving without solar.

I am more or less just playing around at this point... I already have a functional dual battery setup using one of these Blue Sea ACRs.
 
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Here is the dual battery system I use. The initial cost may seem high but you get dual battery isolation, DC-DC voltage conversion, multi stage charging , battery temperature sensor and a MPPT solar charge controller in one compact integrated unit

CTEK-250S Dual

CTEK%20D250S%20DUAL1450315018_1.JPG


d250s_dual_solar_charge_controller_4.jpg


Factory Blurb: The D250S DUAL is a fully automatic charger that supplies 20A to 12V batteries of 40–300Ah. It obtains its energy from DC sources (alternator, solar panels) and optimizes this power to meet the charging requirements of different battery banks. The D250S DUAL automatically selects the best connected DC energy source (of 2) for the purpose and switches between them to achieve high efficiency multi-stage charging. It is suitable for all types of lead-acid batteries (Wet, MF, Gel, AGM). Acts as a battery separator that eliminates diodes and VSR relays. Solar panel regulator with Maximum Power Point Tracking.
I am just starting my setup and plan to go with a portable battery pak to the back of the 4Runner and would like to go with the Ctek d250s for the dc-dc on top of the battery pak.
I just purchased a Renogy 100ah AGM and was wondering if you think this battery would work for what I plan. Would the Ctek DC-DC be able to charge this type of deep cycle?
A note that I already looked into the discharge rate @ 20hr was 104ah as the web site only shows it in at 10hrs 100ah.
Thanks for your imput.
 
I am just starting my setup and plan to go with a portable battery pak to the back of the 4Runner and would like to go with the Ctek d250s for the dc-dc on top of the battery pak.
I just purchased a Renogy 100ah AGM and was wondering if you think this battery would work for what I plan. Would the Ctek DC-DC be able to charge this type of deep cycle?
A note that I already looked into the discharge rate @ 20hr was 104ah as the web site only shows it in at 10hrs 100ah.
Thanks for your imput.

Sure, It don't see why it wouldn't work. Most 12v battries would be compatible. And based on the spec sheets it's within the voltage range so I don't think you would have any problems.

Here is the spec sheet
https://www.renogy.com/template/files/Specifications/RNG-BATT-AGM12-100.pdf

The 20hr rate is 5.2 amps which is about in line with a fridge/freezer. 10 hour rate is 10 amp discharge.

Keep in mind that any lead chemistry battery... SLA, AGM, Gel, deep cycle, you should NOT discharge more than 50% DOD (depth of discharge). Using the full 100Ah capacity is only going to degrade killing/shortening the service life of your expensive battery much faster. Consider it a 100Ah battery with 50Ah usable. This pretty much goes for everything until you get into various lithium chemistry.

50% DOD ensures you a long healthy working life of the battery. This is why sizing calcs are important in deep cycle and solar applications.

Plenty of read on the subject but this should get you started.
https://www.sustainablepreparedness.com/index.php/blog/batteries-101-depth-of-discharge

That said, looks like a nice battery. How much did you end up paying for it?
 
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