Body Monut chop kit, any benifit?

jjdbike

New member
Hey folks,
So here’s my quick story, after initial install (lift, dif drop, UCAs) wider wheels, 285s, non traditional-custom alignment & wheel well liner mod was done so very little rub under road driving other than at full lock & under suspension compression. While aired down and driving on sand there was noticable rub when turning. Got realignment recently and they did a standard alignment. Could be my imagination (as I really don’t understand alignments) but it rides / tracks better on the highway. BUT, now it rubs a good bit, like truning and every time I park, not to mention any suspension compression.
I could get the alignment re-adjusted but it would still rub when aired down. That being said I’m having a local body shop do a body mount chop. I trust the guy as much as I can in my relative ignorance when it comes to mechanics etc. & he’s a off road mod guy. He owns the shop & it’s a local family business.
My question is, I found a “body mount chop kit” made by insane fabrication on the Toytec site. Do you folks see any benifit to this kit? My body shop guy thinks it purly cosmetic & says he can do it from the metal he stocks eaiser. What do you folks think, do you agree w/ him?
Just confirming and looking for a second opinion from someone w/ more knowledge & expereince than I.
Thanks.
JD
Here’s ths pic of the “kit"
 

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The kit is simply an end cap to close the end of the body mount after chop. Your local guy is correct. He can do it with metal from his shop.
 
the factory mount is probably high strength steel since you need that body mount to help keep things from deforming in oblique impacts, so keep in mind you're probably reducing that ability if you are booger welding stock scrap (although some people just cut and paint and never close or box it, so it's at least much better than that)
 
It is cosmetic to cap it, once you lose the purpose which was to reduce wheel intrusion in an off-set crash. For holding the body mount it is not needed from a strength point of view.
 
I just recently got my BMC done. The guy that did it for me refused to use the pre cut plate I purchased from Metal Tech because he preferred to cut out his own custom plate for precise fitment.
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I just recently got my BMC done. The guy that did it for me refused to use the pre cut plate I purchased from Metal Tech because he preferred to cut out his own custom plate for precise figment.

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Nice work,
thanks.
I’m guessing that’s what my guy is thinking too.
Thanks again everyone.
JD
 
Anybody know who can do the BMC in Boise ID? Pretty sure I wanna get it done

And a follow up question ... was it ever answered on how big it lets you go in tire size vs not having it done?
 
I just chopped mine till it stopped rubbing and threw some paint on it. Kinda uggo but, why you looking at my wheel well you noisey little bastard?

If I lived in snow country I would be in a rush to cap it. That's not a place you want to rust out.
 
Anybody know who can do the BMC in Boise ID? Pretty sure I wanna get it done

And a follow up question ... was it ever answered on how big it lets you go in tire size vs not having it done?

I run 285s and spacers and, while it rolled along just fine, at full lock it rubbed loudly. Any tire wider would more certain present more issues. The fact that these vehicles turn like a boat, full lock occurs more often than I thought. Just do it and never worry again.
 
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I run 285s and spacers and, while it rolled along just fine, at full lock it rubbed loudly. Any tire wider would more certain present more issues. The fact that these vehicles turn like a boat, full lock occurs more often than I thought. Just do it and never worry again.



So are you stock? I’m unclear of your setup. I’ve seen way to many runners with 285’s ... I’m not to worried about them. Question is ... how big will the BMC allow me to go with no other mods.

I personally have the vehicle 3” higher in the front running on the stock 265’s, but approaching 30k on them ... so it’s about go time on bigger tires ... I don’t think 285’s would pose any problem for me with current setup. What I want to get to is a larger 34 ... 35 is probably asking too much for the work I’m willing to put in.

I’ve just heard of you go much larger than a smaller 33 you just have to do the BMC (with a lift I mean)


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So are you stock? I’m unclear of your setup. I’ve seen way to many runners with 285’s ... I’m not to worried about them. Question is ... how big will the BMC allow me to go with no other mods.

I personally have the vehicle 3” higher in the front running on the stock 265’s, but approaching 30k on them ... so it’s about go time on bigger tires ... I don’t think 285’s would pose any problem for me with current setup. What I want to get to is a larger 34 ... 35 is probably asking too much for the work I’m willing to put in.

I’ve just heard of you go much larger than a smaller 33 you just have to do the BMC (with a lift I mean)

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Forgive the vagueness. To my knowledge, which is admittedly novice, you will need to upgrade the UCAs to accommodate the angle changes involved with tires and lift and a BMC as well as fender liner cut will be mandatory. I am not familiar with anyone on here that is running 35s and from some images Ive seen of rear tire tucking while rock crawling, body impact seems likely too in those situations.

I have attached a guide I saved that was posted by another member (whom I forget) to give you some guidance perhaps. I did all my suspension work and tires simultaneously so not sure how the individual components impacted the need for BMC, just what I learned on here.
 

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