Body Mount Chop - Spidertrax / 285 / New Wheels

scottblink23

New member
I have a Day Star 2.5 / 1.5 lift and I currently have stock 17 wheels (7.5 wide) and LT 255/75/17 tires (32.1 x 10 wide). I also have Spidertrax 1.25 spacers.

I am considering Method NV wheels and 285/70/17 tires. The wheels are 8.5 wide (0 offset) and, as you all know, the 285's are 11.5 wide.

I know that I'll have to chop the body mount if I install the new wheels and 285s (sans Spidertrax). My question is, if I keep the spacers on, pushing the wheels and tires out even further, will choping the body mount even be a solution? Or would this help my situation? From the pics below, I don't have too much room in general... Any advice would be great.

And yes, I used the search bar.. Thanks!
 

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Yes, Yes and Yes.

I run 285-75 MT's and I did everything you mentioned, because you will rub lock-to-lock on the frame mounts. I actually did away with the spacers when I installed the my new rims - I opted for a 0 deg offset and 4.5" of backspacing and no longer needed the spacers.

You'll also find the 285's rubbing on the front fenders, too. I cut roughly 3" off the front fender, 45'ed the bottom and moved the liner forward about 4". I re-used all the factory hardware and you would never know the fender was chopped and moved, unless you're really looking for the modification.

This is the finished product... I have almost 3" of space between the tire and the fender-lining. I have zero rubbing up front now!

mkgn.jpg
 
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also another thing to think about it that if you off road or have to go through an uneven road there is i possible chance that you'll rub now because when you front passenger is down and the driver is up the suspension geometry will cause you to rub a bit nothing to bad to worry about. i have 285 70 on 8.5 wide rims with an offset of -10mm but i only rub under flex with out the body mount chop.
 
Yes, Yes and Yes.

I run 285-75 MT's and I did everything you mentioned, because you will rub lock-to-lock on the frame mounts. I actually did away with the spacers when I installed the my new rims - I opted for a 0 deg offset and 4.5" of backspacing and no longer needed the spacers.

You'll also find the 285's rubbing on the front fenders, too. I cut roughly 3" off the front fender, 45'ed the bottom and moved the liner forward about 4". I re-used all the factory hardware and you would never know the fender was chopped and moved, unless you're really looking for the modification.

This is the finished product... I have almost 3" of space between the tire and the fender-lining. I have zero rubbing up front now!

mkgn.jpg

The NV's have a 0 offset and 4.79 backspacing. Do you get the same aggressive stance with the bigger wheels but no spacers? I had to push the liner forward and trim the fender when I put on the 255's. What did you use to chop the mount, a dremel? Run into any problems? Thanks again!
 

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also another thing to think about it that if you off road or have to go through an uneven road there is i possible chance that you'll rub now because when you front passenger is down and the driver is up the suspension geometry will cause you to rub a bit nothing to bad to worry about. i have 285 70 on 8.5 wide rims with an offset of -10mm but i only rub under flex with out the body mount chop.

Thanks - I appreciate it. I love your build! Your 285's look awesome!
 
The NV's have a 0 offset and 4.79 backspacing. Do you get the same aggressive stance with the bigger wheels but no spacers? I had to push the liner forward and trim the fender when I put on the 255's. What did you use to chop the mount, a dremel? Run into any problems? Thanks again!

Then you already have a head start on getting those 285's to fit (with the fender/lining mod). As far as the chop, I used a pneumatic grinder with a sweet little pack of metal grinding disks - these things could probably cut the entire truck in 1/2! I got 5/pack at a local Tractor Supply for like 15 bucks. I cut back as far I could, while leaving a 1/4" in front of actual mount - so I would still have a little room to weld on an end plate. I don't have any pics uploaded on the web (to post on here), but you can search the forum and find a numbers of nice shots from other members who performed the same mod.

And I need to qualify my "no spacer" comment, too. I had the 1.5" All Pro spacers (pictured below), but I removed them when I installed my Pro Comp Series 52 Xtreme rims - the rims are 16" / 0 offset / 4.5" / 8" wide. A little of topic... but to accomodate the 16" rims I also had to install a 2009 FJ front brake kit (due to the Sport rotors and calipers being so large). And to get the rims to clear the shorter FJ calipers and rotors, I then installed some "generic" 1/4" wheel spacers to clear everything nicely. I also used some gorilla glue to securely adhere them to the hub assemblies and painted everything all black... :thumb:! The PA laws are really strict on spacers and you would never know I even had spacers at a glance! I can always pry them off, if needed. Sorry for rambling-on about the rim and brake information, but I always get hit-up with some questions when I mention a 16" rim on a 4th gen. And, yes, the offset and backspacing I chose still provides me with a nice aggressive stance - the 1/4" spacer only pushed out the sidewall a little past my fenders and my tread is perfectly flush with the fender. It looks proper now!

Here's a shot of the new FJ set-up... you can clearly see from from the dust shields the shorter caliper and rotor.

7ggg.jpg


You may be okay without any spacers - or a very small one like mine - since you're running a nearly identical offset/backspacing on the NV's and you don't have any clearance issues with brakes cause you're running a factory size rim. I'm not an expert on the subject by any means, but I went through 3 sets of various rims before I got it down to a science. I bought the first 2 sets used and finally learned a nice little lesson on doing my math homework first, and then I bought the Pro Comps new from Summit Racing. Luckily I sold the first 2 sets on Craigslist for the same monies, so it was just a bunch of wasted time learning that I was an idiot for not researching the entire project. That's my closing argument to you.. research the entire project before you pull the trigger, you know - like you're doing in this thread!


This is the best side shot I have access to showing the stance with the 1/4" spacers. I can live with it...

k7jd.jpg
 
[MENTION=7627]markaidan[/MENTION] I love the stance of your rig. Thanks for your detailed response!

I am going to try the NV's and 285's without spacers first. I'll chop the mount and hopefully I won't rub on the UCA's.

Once I do, I'll post pics and any issues I have for future reference.
 
also another thing to think about it that if you off road or have to go through an uneven road there is i possible chance that you'll rub now because when you front passenger is down and the driver is up the suspension geometry will cause you to rub a bit nothing to bad to worry about. i have 285 70 on 8.5 wide rims with an offset of -10mm but i only rub under flex with out the body mount chop.

Agreed, I don't run spacers either with my 285/70/17 DuraTracs on FJC wheels. I didn't need to do the body mount chop either. I do get some fender rubbing off-road but not enough to worry about.
 
[MENTION=7627]markaidan[/MENTION] I love the stance of your rig. Thanks for your detailed response!

I am going to try the NV's and 285's without spacers first. I'll chop the mount and hopefully I won't rub on the UCA's.

Once I do, I'll post pics and any issues I have for future reference.

Yeah, sorry for the long winded reply! I got on a roll there... LOL.

I'm looking forward to seeing how well your set-up works, too. There's a lot of variations we can run - depending on the rim, the back-spacing and various offsets. Keep us posted.
 
Then you already have a head start on getting those 285's to fit (with the fender/lining mod). As far as the chop, I used a pneumatic grinder with a sweet little pack of metal grinding disks - these things could probably cut the entire truck in 1/2! I got 5/pack at a local Tractor Supply for like 15 bucks. I cut back as far I could, while leaving a 1/4" in front of actual mount - so I would still have a little room to weld on an end plate. I don't have any pics uploaded on the web (to post on here), but you can search the forum and find a numbers of nice shots from other members who performed the same mod.

And I need to qualify my "no spacer" comment, too. I had the 1.5" All Pro spacers (pictured below), but I removed them when I installed my Pro Comp Series 52 Xtreme rims - the rims are 16" / 0 offset / 4.5" / 8" wide. A little of topic... but to accomodate the 16" rims I also had to install a 2009 FJ front brake kit (due to the Sport rotors and calipers being so large). And to get the rims to clear the shorter FJ calipers and rotors, I then installed some "generic" 1/4" wheel spacers to clear everything nicely. I also used some gorilla glue to securely adhere them to the hub assemblies and painted everything all black... :thumb:! The PA laws are really strict on spacers and you would never know I even had spacers at a glance! I can always pry them off, if needed. Sorry for rambling-on about the rim and brake information, but I always get hit-up with some questions when I mention a 16" rim on a 4th gen. And, yes, the offset and backspacing I chose still provides me with a nice aggressive stance - the 1/4" spacer only pushed out the sidewall a little past my fenders and my tread is perfectly flush with the fender. It looks proper now!

Here's a shot of the new FJ set-up... you can clearly see from from the dust shields the shorter caliper and rotor.

7ggg.jpg


You may be okay without any spacers - or a very small one like mine - since you're running a nearly identical offset/backspacing on the NV's and you don't have any clearance issues with brakes cause you're running a factory size rim. I'm not an expert on the subject by any means, but I went through 3 sets of various rims before I got it down to a science. I bought the first 2 sets used and finally learned a nice little lesson on doing my math homework first, and then I bought the Pro Comps new from Summit Racing. Luckily I sold the first 2 sets on Craigslist for the same monies, so it was just a bunch of wasted time learning that I was an idiot for not researching the entire project. That's my closing argument to you.. research the entire project before you pull the trigger, you know - like you're doing in this thread!


This is the best side shot I have access to showing the stance with the 1/4" spacers. I can live with it...

k7jd.jpg

How the hell do you get your wheel well so clean??
 
WOW! Reducing the overall size and surface area of your brake package???? Heavier truck, lifted, larger tires and a smaller than stock brake package. Im sure it works, but not as well as the larger package. Be safe!
:fear:
 
WOW! Reducing the overall size and surface area of your brake package???? Heavier truck, lifted, larger tires and a smaller than stock brake package. Im sure it works, but not as well as the larger package. Be safe!
:fear:

That's not so much the case with my set-up. The break pads inside my current package were taken out of my Sport Edition calipers. I did reduce the overall size of the rotor by 1/2", but the calipers are actually identical to the Sport Edition - they just sit 1/2" closer to the rotor.

When I decided to run a 16" rim, I went to Advance Auto and lined up some older Tundra calipers, the SR5 4Runner caliper, the Limited 4Runner caliper, the FJC calipers and the Sport Edition calipers - and I found out the 16" FJ Cruiser (rims) use the exact same caliper as the Sport Edition, but the mounting arms are a 1/2" shorter due to the slightly smaller stock rotor. The break pads are completely interchangeable between the 09 FJC and the 4th gen Sport Edition. I still have the same (breaking) surface area as I did with the Sport Edition calipers.

The way I see it... if they're solid enough for the FJ Cruiser, they should be okay on a 4Runner. And I've had no issue for almost a year now - no chatter or warping, whatsoever. I'm sold on the conversion.
 
How the hell do you get your wheel well so clean??

Truth be told, just before I installed the Ironman FJC lift kit I power-washed everything really good. And once it was clean and tore down, I broke out some Rust-Oleum bed liner and painted everything black.

You're seeing a day old paint job inside there... but I do power-wash the wheel wells when I got home from wheeling each time. Plus, my wife goes ballistic if I don't clean the truck before putting it in the garage. Ha!
 

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