Body shop and paint question

lewdog998

New member
So I dropped off my 4r at the Geico approved body shop for repairs. Basically the front bumper cover and driver fender. The bumper cover will be replaced.

So here is my question......
The estimator tried to throw out a preemptive excuse and mentioned while looking at the truck (and other cars)...." paint cures differently on the plastic covers than on the metal, so it may look a little more grey" something to that effect. I did not say anything nor did I sign anything to that effect.

Basically he was saying it may not match perfectly between the bumper cover and fender.

Sounds like BS to me.
Had it not been the special gieco shop (gieco, not the shop, gives a lifetime guarantee on the work)....I probably would have walked.
I figure its BS, because the paint is on primer, not the plastic.

I am going to insist it matches. Does anyone have any experience with this?
Its a super white 2020.
 
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Matching white is tough all by itself. Add plastic and its tougher. That said, its young enough not to be faded too much, so that should help. I would guess that they are just covering their A** in case you get picky. If it isn't right, have them do it again.
 
First, I would never go to a GEICO (or any other insurance company) recommended shop. Why? Because those shops generally get "approved" because they're in bed with the insurance company. Said another way, they're working for the insurance company, not you. Want to guess what kind of behaviors that leads to? Pick a shop that you can trust.

Second, I've had a relatively new Super White Toyota (a Tacoma) repaired and it is indeed tough - but not impossible to match. In my case, the bed side and back door needed to be painted. My insurance company agreed to paint the whole side of the vehicle to insure a proper match. (They nailed it perfectly.) The collision shop I selected went to bat for me and got everything approved. Your GEICO approved shop will not do that and the reason the adjuster is buttering you up is to set you expectations unreasonably low. (Did I mention that I despise GEICO?) Find another shop.
 
Matching white is tough all by itself. Add plastic and its tougher. That said, its young enough not to be faded too much, so that should help. I would guess that they are just covering their A** in case you get picky. If it isn't right, have them do it again.
It has been garage kept from new, so hopefully that helps.


First, I would never go to a GEICO (or any other insurance company) recommended shop. Why? Because those shops generally get "approved" because they're in bed with the insurance company. Said another way, they're working for the insurance company, not you. Want to guess what kind of behaviors that leads to? Pick a shop that you can trust.

Second, I've had a relatively new Super White Toyota (a Tacoma) repaired and it is indeed tough - but not impossible to match. In my case, the bed side and back door needed to be painted. My insurance company agreed to paint the whole side of the vehicle to insure a proper match. (They nailed it perfectly.) The collision shop I selected went to bat for me and got everything approved. Your GEICO approved shop will not do that and the reason the adjuster is buttering you up is to set you expectations unreasonably low. (Did I mention that I despise GEICO?) Find another shop.

Yeah, I get what your saying...they do always want out as cheap as possible. I have a bit of hope in that there are several "approved" geico shops here in Nashville, but this is the only one that is on their arx program (the shop estimator is authorized to make the call on what needs repaired, so it actually benefits shop to fix more stuff). Geico also approved redoing the full front ppf and oe parts
...the shop at the dealer (who i originally wanted to use) was booked till mid October. Hopefully it works out, as they have it now.

Thanks for input.
 
So I dropped off my 4r at the Geico approved body shop for repairs. Basically the front bumper cover and driver fender. The bumper cover will be replaced.

So here is my question......
The estimator tried to throw out a preemptive excuse and mentioned while looking at the truck (and other cars)...." paint cures differently on the plastic covers than on the metal, so it may look a little more grey" something to that effect. I did not say anything nor did I sign anything to that effect.

Basically he was saying it may not match perfectly between the bumper cover and fender.

Sounds like BS to me.
Had it not been the special gieco shop (gieco, not the shop, gives a lifetime guarantee on the work)....I probably would have walked.
I figure its BS, because the paint is on primer, not the plastic.

I am going to insist it matches. Does anyone have any experience with this?
Its a super white 2020.

20 year body shop veteran. Matching just a bumper to a fender is very difficult. This article by PPG helps you understand why. If you go look at a NEW one on the lot, you can probably notice a variaton if you look hard enough. It's most noticeable on the Reds due to the paint being so transparent.

040 White has no clear, but Toyota recommends clear coat on all repaired panels, so that can also account for a difference in final perceived color. I could paint a bumper and fender with the exact same gun, exact same paint, and 9/10 times, it will be a close match, but plastic to metal will never match 100 percent.
Facts on Bumper Color
 
040 White has no clear, but Toyota recommends clear coat on all repaired panels, so that can also account for a difference in final perceived color. I could paint a bumper and fender with the exact same gun, exact same paint, and 9/10 times, it will be a close match, but plastic to metal will never match 100 percent.
Facts on Bumper Color

Shadow,
you bring up the clear coat issue. Help me understand....
I had heard this and was looking into this as I was looking for a body shop that does single stage. Every shop including my toyota dealers body shop said the white is base / clear. I even took some 5000 grit and sanded on an inconspicuous spot and did not get a "white" residue on the pad. (i read that was a good way to test)

as you have many years in body repair, and not sure if you are still active, but could this be a newer process or what? cant seem to find a definite answer in writing.
thanks
 

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