Bought a 2000 last Sunday, was great, but now have check engine light/power loss

[lance317]

So, after a long search, I found my 4runner and bought it from a private party just this last Sunday morning. The chassis has 171,000, and cylinder work and a ton of new parts (radiator, timing, water pump, fuel pump, comprehensive tune-up, etc.)

Had a mechanic from work spot check it, and he also hooked up a scanner before buying it, and it showed no problems, errors, etc.

Wound up paying $4000 for it, and all seemed well mechanically over the last week, and I was absolutely pleased about the car, as it's just clean throughout.

So last night I was running low on fuel (gas light came on), got 1/4 tank of mid-grade fuel at a Chevron, drove 3 miles home, and all seemed fine.

This morning, I get in the car, and the check engine light stays solid, and it seems like a bit of a power loss. Merge onto the freeway, and I practically have to floor it to get up to 60 mph. Eventually the power seems to return, but it is clearly running a bit slower and the CEL is staying solid. Idle seems ok, and car isn't shaking or smoking, and is holding fluids OK. The oil seemed a little low, about 1/8 inch below full.

I'll be getting the error codes on my lunch hour in a bit, but can anybody here offer some insights? Is it a sign of impending doom here? Thanks for any help!

 

[80Grit]

Sounds like a possible p0171. At this point it could be a couple different things (plugs, wires, maf sensor, o2 sensors, vacuum leak) just wait until you get the code/s and trouble shoot from there.

 

[XJeepguy]

Are you sure you put the fuel cap back on , or on properly ?

 

[LittleCaesar]

Po420, plugged kitty. But get the code first.

 

[lance317]

Are you sure you put the fuel cap back on , or on properly ?

I checked it this morning, and it was on there tight. Pulled it off and put back on to be sure, started back up, and the CEL is still on.

 

[4yotaguy]

Second that, w/o checking the codes you are left to "spitball" it....If it is not possible to read the codes, I'd pull the MAF and clean it out, going from there

 

[XJeepguy]

I checked it this morning, and it was on there tight. Pulled it off and put back on to be sure, started back up, and the CEL is still on.

Ok . Dont you have to clear the code first though ?

I had the same thing happen and the cap actually needed replacing . But I needed to clear the CEL as well .

Funny as mine was right after purchase too

 

[4yotaguy]

I checked it this morning, and it was on there tight. Pulled it off and put back on to be sure, started back up, and the CEL is still on.

Fuel cap loose may cause the evap leak, but not the power loss....fouled plugs or wire problems usually cause intermittent issues, stumbling and so forth...The MAF would cause a consistent misreading of the Air intake leading to a consistent power loss. A fuel supply issue could also cause a consistent low of power....pulling the code would be very revealing...:fro:

 

[lance317]

thanks for the replies everyone...i'll post the codes as soon as I get them. the guy i bought the car from claims he'll scan it and fix what the problem is - "if it's a quick fix" (great) i see a catalytic converter replacement for this thing is like $600 just for the part....I know you should expect stuff to go wrong with an old used car, but I thought I'd get at least 1 week of driving out of it before having to throw down that kind of money, good god.

 

[alaskaflyer]

It happens! very cool of the seller to offer that. The one I bought developed a issue on the way home from Texas to Cape Cod.

Hope it all works out

 

[bikerjosh]

If it does need a cat, look online for one of the CARB approved cheap replacements. You can order them from Napa, Oreily, etc and have a local muffler place install. just my .02
Good luck

 

[lance317]

If it does need a cat, look online for one of the CARB approved cheap replacements. You can order them from Napa, Oreily, etc and have a local muffler place install. just my .02
Good luck

Thanks for the tip - think I jumped the gun on the Cat replacement - it looks like the one I saw online for $550 isn't even legal in California...but now I'm wondering if there are 2 Cats on this thing I have to worry about?

 

[bikerjosh]

Thanks for the tip - think I jumped the gun on the Cat replacement - it looks like the one I saw online for $550 isn't even legal in California...but now I'm wondering if there are 2 Cats on this thing I have to worry about?

If originally sold in Cali, based on the year yes I believe 2.

 

[paddlenbike]

I wouldn't order anything until you pull codes. It might just be a dirty MAF, a free 10 minute fix.

 

[lance317]

Error is P0402...seller claims not a big deal? says something with a valve

 

[EatonKyleH]

Error is P0402...seller claims not a big deal? says something with a valve

P0402 Excessive EGR Flow Detected


P0402 Excessive EGR Flow Detected Possible Causes Setting Conditions
•EGR gas temperature sensor circuit open or shorted to ground
•EGR gas temperature sensor has failed
•EGR Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) has failed
•EGR valve stuck partially or EGR valve stuck fully open
•EGR VSV control circuit is open or shorted to voltage
•PCM has failed
Engine started cold (ECT sensor signal less than 86ºF), engine running without load at less than 4,000 rpm, and the PCM detected the EGR sensor indicated a high value during the EGR Cutoff test; or it detected the EGR valve was open at any time.

This code sets in 2 Trip(s).
This code will turn on the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp)


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Malfunction Indicator Lamp
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) alerts the driver that the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) has detected an OBD II emission-related component or system fault. When this type of malfunction occurs, an OBD II Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) will be set by the PCM. The MIL is located on the instrument cluster and is labeled CHECK ENGINE, SERVICE ENGINE SOON, or is identified with an ISO standard engine symbol (i.e., a picture of an engine).
Bulb Test
Each time the ignition switch is turned to the "on" position, the MIL indicator is illuminated for about 3 seconds (which is a function of the PCM).
MIL Lamp-On Message
Each time the PCM detects an Emissions related fault, the MIL is illuminated to inform the driver that the vehicle needs to be taken in for service.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

EGR SYSTEM MONITOR DRIVE CYCLE INSTRUCTIONS
•Do not turn off the ignition switch during the test procedure.
•All Onboard Diagnostic Monitors are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is cleared with the Scan Tool.
•This drive cycle can be used to determine if the Readiness code for this Monitor will complete, and if the MIL will remain off after the vehicle is driven.
•Operating Ranges: When a range of values is provided, try to operate the vehicle in the middle of the range. For example, if the vehicle speed range calls for 45-55 mph, drive the vehicle as close as possible to 50 mph. If the engine speed should be 1,000-2,000 rpm, try to operate the engine at 1,500 rpm.
•Scan Tool Data: There are certain Parameter Identification (PID) values that must be within range before this Monitor will "run". It can be helpful to pull up those PID items on the Scan Tool so an assistant can view them during testing.

EGR SYSTEM MONITOR PRETEST CONDITIONS
•MIL is off.
•No Emission related DTC's are present.
•Accessories turned off (A/C, fan motor, headlights and rear window defroster)
•Altitude less than 7,800 feet.
•IAT signal more than 14ºF (see Note below).
•Throttle position less than 30% while at Cruise speed.

TEST PROCEDURE

1.Connect the Scan Tool to the data link connector (DLC). Use the Scan Tool to clear any stored DTC's and to reset the Onboard Diagnostic Monitors. Bring up the Readiness code for the EGR System Monitor.
2.Start the engine and allow it to run at idle speed for 1-2 minutes.
3.Drive the vehicle at 45-55 mph for 3.5 minutes and then decelerate back to idle speed. Accelerate back to 45-55 mph and maintain that speed for 3.5 minutes. Bring the vehicle to a stop in a safe place, but do not turn off the ignition key.
4.Check the status of the Readiness code for the EGR System Monitor. It should change to YES. If it does, perform any additional driving under the conditions required to run the remainder of the monitors. If the Readiness code does not change to YES, check for any Pending codes in the Generic OBD II section of the Scan Tool. If no Pending codes are set, and the status did not change to YES, return to step 3 and repeat the test procedure.

Notes

IAT Temperature:
If the intake air temperature (IAT sensor signal) is less than 50ºF at startup, allow the engine to run at idle speed for at least 10 minutes.

 

[EatonKyleH]

In short I'd start with replacing the EGR valve. It is likely stuck open allowing exhaust gasses to flow back into the cylinders which would explain the lack of power and other concerns.

 

[lance317]

In short I'd start with replacing the EGR valve. It is likely stuck open allowing exhaust gasses to flow back into the cylinders which would explain the lack of power and other concerns.

many thanks for the details - looks to be around $150 for the part.

Took the car back to the seller on my lunch hour, and am awaiting his call on what he found out. Sounds like he is going to charge me for parts, but take care of the labor "if it's nothing too big" in his words....cool, but the guy "guaranteed" the mechanics on this thing up and down before I bought it, so I dunno :crybaby:

 

[LittleCaesar]

So it must be a 4cyl then? No EGR on the V6.

Replace the EGR, clear the code, and you should be OK.

 

[lance317]

So it must be a 4cyl then? No EGR on the V6.

Replace the EGR, clear the code, and you should be OK.

4cyl / 2wd / auto trans base model, yes.

Just now got off phone with the seller/mechanic, and he says his tests are showing that the EGR is OK, but that there may be a problem with the solenoid or temp sensor (?). Says he is in process of checking those out, but claims even with these issues that "there is nothing wrong and the vehicle is ok to drive". Eh, yeah.........