bouncy ride after new LCA install?

tm965

New member
Recently had some DK lower control arms installed and as soon as i drove away from the shop (which had just closed) i realized something was probably wrong as the ride was very stiff and bouncy over small bumps in the road at lower speeds. at first i just chalked this up to have new delrin bushings as opposed to rubber, but i soon realized that there didnt seem to be much articulation over small bumps that wouldve been soaked up prior to the install.

As soon as i got home i inspected the lcas and everything looked fine so then i looked at my UCAs which i had also asked the shop to loosen the bolts on and grease them while the LCAs were being installed. Much to my surprise they did not loosen the bolts and greased the shit out of them, bulging the poly bushings out around the ucas... i called them the next morning to ask if they had loosened the bolts when greasing and the response was "oh no we never loosen the bolts when greasing" WTF. I was also told the owner woudl give me a call back about replacing the bushings and of course no call back as expected.

Later that day I removed the zerks on the UCAs to let the pressure of the excess grease out and thankfully the bushings moved back to where they were originally. Unfortunately, the bouncy ride persists. Now if i push down on the front bumper with all of my weight the suspension barely has any give. I then removed the LCA zerks to see if any excess grease would come out and none did.

At this point, i cant decide if my UCA bushings are still binding or my LCAs were installed and torqued down while the vehicle was still off the ground, causing the delrin LCA bushings to bind.

I dont have access to a flat spot to work on the vehicle and the only shop in the area that i trust at this point is only open during the week and an hour away, which i dont have time for.

Any recommendations on how to proceed here? Can i loosen the lca bolts while the vehicle is on the ground or will i not be able to get enough leverage? Also anyone know off of the top of their heads what bolt size is?

Any thoughts are appreciated.
 
Register to hide this ad
Suspension bolts should be tightened with it preloaded like its on the ground. This way the bushings (which do bind) will bind around the normal ride condition of the vehicle.
 
Do you have the XREAS shock system? The reason I ask is because on my 4th gen 4Runner the dealer disconnected one of the hydraulic lines in the wrong location and screwed up the entire system, which they replaced at their cost.
 
Do you have the XREAS shock system? The reason I ask is because on my 4th gen 4Runner the dealer disconnected one of the hydraulic lines in the wrong location and screwed up the entire system, which they replaced at their cost.

no have 6112s and icon UCAs
 
So the Delrin bushings shouldn't bind regardless of how they are tightened down but it won't hurt to jack it up, loosen the camber bolts, set it down on its weight and re tighten. same is true for the uppers. ALSO: loosen the bilstein lower bolt, and do the same thing. that has a bushing inside of it and i bet they torqued it down with it in the air.
 
Was it only the LCA's you replaced?

You didn't replace the coils or shocks?

correct, they were good to go prior to lca install

ETA: i replaced the LCAs as i was getting clunks/pops when turning lock to lock and under heavy articulation. i was also getting the steering wheel/cabin vibration often attributed to tire balance, but all of that is gone after the lca install, which is awesome. the bounciness over small bumps is not great, esp at low speeds/in traffic.
 
Last edited:
Problem solved--the UCA bushings were still binding from the overgreasing. I loosened them up completely, bounced the vehicle some, regreased, then backed in and out of my steep driveway a few times before re-torquing which has solved the issue. Thanks for your thoughts here guys
 
I have the same issue.. I haven't tried to loosen my upper bolt yet tho, here is my issue

I have SPC upper arms, no grease zerk on UCA bushing, that I kmow of just the balljoint.

I can't keep it from feeling bouncy, started soon as the lower arms went on, with my 2.0 vated coilovers, and now after I upgraded to Icons, same thing. When I called Dirt King they said "2.0" isn't enough, get some 2.5's"

If I adjust the valve to be tighter or more resistance added it bounces less, but still real stiff... If I run fully soft it bounces like a cut spring civic.

We ran the preload down from 2.13" we put it at to start. I didn't measure it after we dropped it but it did improve, still rides super stiff and bouncy.

Thanks in advance guys, if anyone has any ideas,

How much thread are you guys finding works best on setup?

I do have an aluminum front cbi bumper, synthetic winch cable, and lights but that's it,
 

Attachments

  • 27D2F605-6CD4-4C77-9895-1A8BBBB7BC10.jpeg
    27D2F605-6CD4-4C77-9895-1A8BBBB7BC10.jpeg
    33.7 KB · Views: 1,189
Last edited:
Problem solved--the UCA bushings were still binding from the overgreasing. I loosened them up completely, bounced the vehicle some, regreased, then backed in and out of my steep driveway a few times before re-torquing which has solved the issue. Thanks for your thoughts here guys

Do you torque the UCA bolts down with the truck on the ground? How do you manage to fit a torque wrench in there if so? Total chaos told me I can torque the thru bolt while the truck isn’t on the ground but wondering if my ride changed due to the bushings being overgreased. Just to be clear, I loosen the thru bolt when regressing.
 
Do you torque the UCA bolts down with the truck on the ground? How do you manage to fit a torque wrench in there if so? Total chaos told me I can torque the thru bolt while the truck isn’t on the ground but wondering if my ride changed due to the bushings being overgreased. Just to be clear, I loosen the thru bolt when regressing.

Just put a jack under the lower ball joint so the vehicle weight is on the suspension.
With poly bushings, it doesn't matter if it is sitting at ride height as they spin freely, unlike molded rubber bushings that are twisting the rubber at any angle other than what they are tightened at.
 
In case anyone comes across this, the upper control arm bolt was WAY too tight.


I have the same issue.. I haven't tried to loosen my upper bolt yet tho, here is my issue

I have SPC upper arms, no grease zerk on UCA bushing, that I kmow of just the balljoint.

I can't keep it from feeling bouncy, started soon as the lower arms went on, with my 2.0 vated coilovers, and now after I upgraded to Icons, same thing. When I called Dirt King they said "2.0" isn't enough, get some 2.5's"

If I adjust the valve to be tighter or more resistance added it bounces less, but still real stiff... If I run fully soft it bounces like a cut spring civic.

We ran the preload down from 2.13" we put it at to start. I didn't measure it after we dropped it but it did improve, still rides super stiff and bouncy.

Thanks in advance guys, if anyone has any ideas,

How much thread are you guys finding works best on setup?

I do have an aluminum front cbi bumper, synthetic winch cable, and lights but that's it,
 
I have the same arms and it took about a week for them to loosen up a bit.
Hey So I am curious what Shocks/Coilovers are you running with your Dirt King LCA's ? I have the Eibach Pro Truck Stage 1 and also have a Bouncy ride and have been driving it for a Week and 2 days. So far i notice it softened up a little but still bouncy .

Thank You !
2010 4runner Limited
 
In case anyone comes across this, the upper control arm bolt was WAY too tight.
Thanks for that info ! I have the same issue here.. So I loosened up my UCA Bolts which helped soften the ride a little But i am still experiencing a Bouncy/Stiff Ride So Far. But i am only a Week or so into driving after install and alignment of the Dirt King LCA's

Head Scratch :)
Any ideas would be Awesome .

Thank you !
2010 4runner Limited
 
I'm guessing most of you still have issues, or some may still with minor improvements...
Figured I'd write a bit on this as I too have struggled (still struggle) with this issue.
Installed my DK LCA on my 2015 summer of 2020. SUPER bouncy. I took a LOT of measurements, definitely seemed like the inner metal sleeve within the derlin bushing was recessed more than it should be...given how derlin bushings work.
Lets get something straight, derlin bushings are meant to pivot around inner metal sleeve, so those who make the "loosen it, then tighten it under load" comment...I'll say that this really should not matter given the way this bushing works. Stock bushings are rubber, and do not act in a hinge like manner as derlin bushings do. The rubber in stock bushings actually is fixed and flexes to create a bit of resistance, but also absorb the loads on the suspension...we'll come back to the load absorbing aspect in a sec...
So, I called DK...emailed them measurements (pulled my LCA's off more than a few times). I ended up ordering Fox 2.5's w dsc's thinking it would make them better. Nope.
Here's what we (DK and I) came up with at the time. The powder coat was applied beyond the 'target' thickness casing the black part of the bushings to essentially stick out more than the inner metal sleeve.
So the culprit (in theory) at the time was that the Bushing was not actually working as designed. The inner metal sleeve becomes fixed when tightening the LCA bolts, and the black outer busing is to rotate around the sleeve *freely* with moderate resistance.
Getting back to the stock LCA for a moment, as I said I would...the rubber bushing flexes under load and the LCA is allowed to 'shift' a little while the suspension hits bumps, etc. This makes for a softer ride, BUT these bushings wear out, and create alignment/suspension issues (noise) etc. DERLIN BUSHINGS WILL CREATE A MORE STIFF RIDE. The LCA is not longer pivoting on a rubber fixed bushing, and now is rotating on a more fixed axis, which in turn creates a bit more feedback from the road, trails, etc.

So what's the fix. Well, this is an ongoing mechanical-science project in my book. Hindsight tells me the fix is: I should have just gone long travel.

BUT, here's what I've done so far, and where I'm headed just to see if I can dial them in...somewhere in me believes that I can get a better ride out of these F'ing things than what I've got now.

First step I took: removed LCA's, pull busings out, and took a belt sander to the bushing ends that meet the brackets on the frame, which in turn (by feel) I exposed the inner metal sleeve literally by a playing card thickness on both sides of the busing when put back together. This helped...a lot, but honestly left me wanting for a bit more. I've continued to tinker for the past two, almost three years now on this.

I've drawn up theoretical bushing ideas to possibly try to solve then send over to DK just so they have something to maybe work from.

One idea is essentially shortening the entire bushing and inner sleeve on both sides, and adding a washer that marries up with the inner sleeve, and makes for a smooth surface to mate up to the inner LCA mounts (which are actually not smooth if you notice they are meant to lock the stock LCA bushings in place).

I've then added the idea of drilling at least one small grease relief holes in the black (outer) bushing either parallel to the inner sleeve, or creating an elongate notch where the inner metal sleeve meets the outer black sleeve, which allows grease to press through the bushing itself, towards the now mating surface of a new smooth washer, by which the bushing will be able to rotate more smoothly upon, AND the drilled hole or 'notch' will not push the outer bushing out (hold pressure) alleviating possible 'bushing bind' as I call it.

Now, the above idea has come after I've done a LOT of things to TRY and soften this puppy up. I studied shock valving...changes my shock valving on my FOX 2.5's w DSC's...seriously. I bought the nitrogen tank to re-pressurize, a variety of valve stacks (compression and rebound) spent countless hours trying to find a way to get that 'softer ride' I felt was somewhere within reach.

I found myself disappointed through the revalving process, so I was like, hmmm...KING Coilovers start with 550# springs, and FOX starts at 600#, I only have a hybrid bumper, pretty light skid,....synthetic rope on my winch, MAYBE I should try a 550# King coil on my now 'hybrid #65 flutter valved compression/#80 rebound' Fox shocks. With my 600# coils i was sitting at 35% spring rate...top end, but within a reasonable range... I think the low end is 25%. Not an expert in this, but basically un-sprung length vs. under load helps calculate this. Knowing your spring bind length is important so that you can factor in your travel (mainly up-travel) remaining once the vehicle is under load. If I recall the 550# spring brought me right on the cusp of 27%~ sitting pretty much right in the middle of my shock up/down travel with a bit more pre-load necessary to get the front (lift) up toward the 2.5-3" range...prob more like 2.5. I've been lifted for so long I don't know what stock is.

So, lots of words, I know...did this help...heh, some...maybe...yes I think so.

Part of my revalving 'theory' was to stiffen the rebound a bit, as I always felt like the suspension was too quick to 'put the tires back on the ground' as I would hit a speed bump at speed. and then back off of the compression a good bit, mainly to do two things: (1) soften the ride, which was the goal all along, and (2) create more adjust-ability with the DSC H/L speed adjusters. These adjusters mainly impact compression only, and rebound is what it is, so I figured if I overshot the compression on the soft side too much, then I could tune it with the high priced adjusters that honestly made no difference before...especially with my LCA bushing bind happening.

I've since had a lot going on with a re-gear, and stuffing 315" (34") tires on my rig. I can say I'm still wanting for a more dialed in ride. And, I also will say that if I could go back to when I first installed my DK LCA's take a quick ride, then fast forward to now, I'd probably be like, "um, this is a cadilac compared to what it was before.

Conclusively, I do think this is an issue, and that most people probably 'jsut deal with it' because, well- you've spent a sh*t ton of money on new LCA's and you don't want to admit they ride like a low-rider. Now, on the other hand, i do understand more about the Derlin bushings, and how they will add a bit more feedback from the road...which, I can respect a lot of people wanting/liking from a handling perspective. Truth be known, the verdict is still out in my book as to whether I simply made a mistake and should have been patient with this purchase. Ultimately, I wish I went with LT. Can't take it back, and I'm persistently trying to get the best out of what I have. One day, I'd love to re-write this novel and tell everyone that experience(d\s) this, a real remedy...or better yet, let DK in on the fix, for no charge of my countless sweat, blood, tears, and time...just so everyone can benefit.

If you're struggling still, try this first: Lower your LCA bolt torque to around 60-ft LBS. Mark your cam tabs first, just in case they shift a bit...don't go 'baja 1000'...just a quick circle around the block. Did this feel softer? If so, then you're likely experiencing the bushing bind issue.

Shave a little off the black bushing, A LITTLE AT A TIME...LIKE BASEBALL CARD THICKNESSNESS...and try it.

Also, I've noticed that after I've greased them up...detatch the coil over and the two bolts at the spindle....pivot the arm by hand a bit to let the grease pressure relieve itself, and also helps get grease between the bushing and the LCA mount. This alone has made a difference, especially after a hard wheeling with mud and water involved. Can feel the difference after doing this.

Hopefully this helps some of you...sorry for the lengthy response, and I know I'm late to the party...old thread...not active on here. Been wanting to off-load years with this 'issue', and just finally did. Cheers.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,312
Messages
3,554,089
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top