Braided brake line going into caliper?

chisel

New member
Hello everyone,

1998 with 236k. After reading the broken LBJ and strawberry milkshake horror stories, I figured it was time to install TRE, UBJ, LBJ, radiator, shocks, struts, and brakes (original). Needless to say, the front brake hoses need replacing, so I thought I'd replace the rigid/hard line that goes to the caliper as well (if I can get the rounded off nut out of the caliper!) So I'm wondering whether I can use a braided ss brake line instead of the rigid one. Has anyone done this?

BTW, I tried the big C clamp method when removing the UBJ. No way were they coming out, so had to remove the knuckle and use a shop press. Pic is a few days after purchase (early June 1998).
 

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Welcome!!! Right off the bat I see you are doing your research which is AWESOME!!!! P-L-U-S!! You posted a pic without being asked lol... You my friend, are going places!!! :bigok:
 
Yeah you can put a braided line. I did this to my last 3rd gen, only because I had a huge lift and needed the extra length.

A lot of the standard brake lines that fit Toyota front's use a banjo fitting at the caliper end. In which case you'll need to get a banjo bolt as well to make it work. I believe they are 10mm but its been a while.
 
Yeah you can put a braided line. I did this to my last 3rd gen, only because I had a huge lift and needed the extra length.

A lot of the standard brake lines that fit Toyota front's use a banjo fitting at the caliper end. In which case you'll need to get a banjo bolt as well to make it work. I believe they are 10mm but its been a while.

Yup - Did my brakes a while back and it is in 10mm.
 
Thanks very much for the welcome and the info. I hope to get the 4Runner running by the weekend.
 
This may be his first post, but he's been a member for over 5 years! I'd say he's done his homework lol.

OP: You can get steel braided brake lines from Wheelers Offroad.

High Performance Toyota Brake Lines from Wheeler's Off-Road

Thanks for the link.

I found this site a week or so ago while researching all the stuff I mentioned in my first post, or at least I thought I did. I tried to register with the username "chisel" and someone already used it! Hmm, maybe it was me? Yes indeed. The cheat sheet I have in my desk drawer with all the sites/usernames/passwords did not have T4R on it, so I guess I forgot to write it down 5 yrs. ago. I didn't have T4R in my bookmarks list either. Shame on me. :)
 
You might consider just replacing the hard line. IIRC, they are only about $5 each. At least from an online dealer.

Welcome, and thanks for doing your homework first.
 
You might consider just replacing the hard line. IIRC, they are only about $5 each. At least from an online dealer.

Welcome, and thanks for doing your homework first.

I thought about that, and almost bought a brake line from Carquest, but I didn't want to futz around with bending the line with the same twists as the original. The braided line seems like it will be a lot easier to install, plus it should save some time. This has been a time-consuming project because of all of the snags:

left ABS sensor was a bear to get out

At the time, I didn't want to break the brake line, so beating the crap out of the caliper pins was a bit difficult with it under the wheel well, but eventually I ground them down flush and got them free with many more blows from a 3# hammer and a good punch.

Had the new radiator in and hanging by the hooks, but the lower holes did not line up. Took it back out and measured against the old one, and the new holes were about 1/8" too far apart. I used a carpenter-type crow bar from underneath and through the grille to persuade the radiator frame until the holes lined up.

I mentioned the upper ball joints earlier - I spent way too much time trying the c clamp method because I didn't have a 36mm socket for the hub nut. I do now! Actually, Rural King didn't have one so I bought a 1 3/8" socket which worked fine. I hope to get to the rear shocks this afternoon.
 

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