Brake Accumulator/Master Cylinder Replacement-Squeal Fix

Lothriel, your link above is the store. In that link you can choose either the Brake Booster Pump Assy for $1411 or the Brake Master Cyl for $1327. Which part did you order for $1040?

Hi,

I ordered 47050-60081 from that store, here is a direct link:

Brake Master Cylinder Assembly with Fluid #47050-60081 | Autoparts.toyota.com

Items Qty Price
Brake Master Cylinder Assembly With Fluid

Part Number: 47050-60081

1 $1,387.12
Subtotal $1,387.12
Discount (25% Off, Nationwide Free Shipping) -$448.65
Tax $0.00
Shipping $101.87
Grand Total $1,040.34
 
Ordered the full assembly, price shipped was $1,040.34 from Genuine Toyota Parts and Accessories: Official Online Store World Toyota

I can probably handle getting it in/out, but I've never bled a brake system before, is there a good tutorial on that somewhere in this context?

That's an EXCELLENT price for that assembly!!

When I did mine all I had to bleed was the lines at the master cylinder, just apply pressure to the brake pedal and crack each of the lines a few times to remove any air, I somehow got a small tray in there under the master cylinder to catch most of the brake fluid, be careful of getting any brake fluid on any paint because it can harm the paint, if you do clean it ASAP with brake cleaner.

That being said it wouldn't hurt to flush all the old brake fluid out by doing a complete brake bleeding at the wheels, but I would still bleed at the master cylinder first so you don't push any air from there further through all the lines, the fronts are simple enough doing the basic style bleeding...i.e. apply pressure to the pedal and crack open the bleeder valves, the rear is even simpler, turn on the ignition and just press the brake pedal down and the pump will push fluid out once you crack the bleeder valves, so there no need to close the bleeder valves and pump the brake pedal and reopen the bleeder valves, just make sure you keep a eye on the fluid level throughout the bleeding process.

You will need to have a helper to work the brake pedal during the bleeding process.

There are a few tutorials on this forum on how to bleed the brakes which you can find searching the forum, but I'm sure there are many videos on YouTube as well.
 
Hi,

I ordered 47050-60081 from that store, here is a direct link:

Brake Master Cylinder Assembly with Fluid #47050-60081 | Autoparts.toyota.com

Items Qty Price
Brake Master Cylinder Assembly With Fluid

Part Number: 47050-60081

1 $1,387.12
Subtotal $1,387.12
Discount (25% Off, Nationwide Free Shipping) -$448.65
Tax $0.00
Shipping $101.87
Grand Total $1,040.34

Ouch that hurts, but it's the best way to go. Buy once, cry once as they say.

I've used Techstream software to bleed the ABS system, and also manual way after putting the key on to IGN.
 
If I'm only sometimes getting the chirp do I have some time to get some cash for the assembly or is this something I should get fixed ASAP? It seems to be cycling every 12-15 seconds.

Thanks!

Pump failure will strand you or worse. 12-15 seconds is excessive. Any chirping sound is bad. Very bad. If the pump seizes, brake pedal will go hard with near loss of braking power. You will be able to brake with extreme pedal pressure as the master cylinder will still work but this is not safe for driving.

Pump and accumulator assembly can be replaced for cheap but that will depend on how comfortable you are with junkyard parts. I replaced mine for $60 plus my worthless time. Pump and accumulator are common to a lot of early 2000's Toyota, Lexus, and Prius. When at the junkyard, hook up the motor to 12V battery and hear the pump run. It should be relatively quiet.
 
Well the new assembly finally arrived and it sadly got damaged :( Looks like they just threw it in a box with no materials at all. The wait continues while I fight with them on a replacement I guess.
 

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Well the new assembly finally arrived and it sadly got damaged :( Looks like they just threw it in a box with no materials at all. The wait continues while I fight with them on a replacement I guess.

When I got mine the box looked exactly like that, nothing other than the master cylinder in the box, nothing to keep it from moving around in the box and it isn't light, luckily mine didn't sustain any major damage.

I'm guessing that's the way the dealers get them from Toyota but probably doesn't get handled as roughly as they do on the "final" leg to a buyer.

Mine was shipped from California and delivered to South Carolina, so crossed the entire USA, where did yours shipped from and where too?
 
Last edited:
I'm about to have to do this on mine

How much fluid is needed for this? Does any DOT3 work?

Had a few questions on what these tools are

universal joint
6 point socket
A line wrench

Will an auto parts store have them to rent?

And what is a bench bleed?

Aside from cross threading, are there any other major concerns?

Thank you for sharing the process. I will try and take photos/video and send them to you if you'd like to update this thread.
 
I'm about to have to do this on mine

How much fluid is needed for this? Does any DOT3 work?

Had a few questions on what these tools are

universal joint
6 point socket
A line wrench

Will an auto parts store have them to rent?

And what is a bench bleed?

Aside from cross threading, are there any other major concerns?

Thank you for sharing the process. I will try and take photos/video and send them to you if you'd like to update this thread.

If you are getting a screech like in the video, pump motor bearings are on the way out. Pump motor and accumulator can be replaced without swapping the valve block. I get them at the junkyard for $50 and test them before buying. Pump and accumulator can be found in other Toyota models so they are not hard to find. I keep a spare of this assembly.

No special tools needed although you will need deep sockets, ratchet extensions of various sizes, and a couple of U-joint bendies to reach the four nuts located above the pedals. Open ended box wrench will do for the line fittings. Scan tool bleed is only for hydro-boost assembly change which is not the problem that the video noise indicates. Using brake pedal push down and line crack method followed by ABS/TC activation on wet and leafy roads works.

I did this job twice in one year because I did not test the first pump motor properly. The second pump is whisper quiet. You take your own risk. If not comfortable, see a mechanic.
 
The motor in the ABS system is a simple motor with brushes and bearings. You're probably hearing the bearings giving up the ghost. If you can afford the downtime, separate the motor from the whole unit, then take apart the motor on the bench. Once you find the bearing part number, or simply measure the bearing, then get replacements. Try not to get them from Amazon, but find a reputable bearing source online or local. You want quality japanese or USA bearings here, not chinese garbage. if the brushes are worn, then get some generic replacements. This could be a brushless motor but I'm not really sure.

YouTube has lots of videos on how to take apart simple motors for bearing and brush replacements. It's not rocket science, but it does scare people.

What's the worse that can happen? Your motor already sounds crappy!!! I don't have a lot of money so I try to DIY most things with the help of the internet.

are you able to remove/replace just the abs motor without removing the whole assy from the car. i recall someone posting a link on how he did it couple of years back, but i cant see it again
 
are you able to remove/replace just the abs motor without removing the whole assy from the car. i recall someone posting a link on how he did it couple of years back, but i cant see it again

There is not enough clearance to remove pump/accumulator assembly. Removing complete assembly is not difficult. Bleeding ABS block us not difficult. I've done this job twice.
 
There is not enough clearance to remove pump/accumulator assembly. Removing complete assembly is not difficult. Bleeding ABS block us not difficult. I've done this job twice.

I want to add that if you have Techstream, it can help you bleed the brakes nicely using the ABS solenoid valves. No need to pump the pedal like old times!
 

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