Brake Bleeding on non-ABS models, is it different from ABS ones

Pyral

Member
I need to replace the soft lines because they're cracking and I don't know how to bleed the brakes on it. I left my FSM at my parents house where I can't look at it.

I asked them to send me photos of the section but the section doesn't show me bleeding them from where I expected. I thought you bled them from the LSPV, but it shows by the calipers.

I thought the process for non-abs runners was different from ABS ones, can someone here confirm that? Also what size tubing do I need for the bleeder valve?
 
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Just like a standard bleed, only difference will be the fist spot to bleed is the LSPV if equipped. IIRC you need to disconnect the linkage and put the LSPV at the most loaded position (so valve is fully open or as close to it as possible). After that, it's your standard bleed, RR, LR, RF, LF. Don't let the master go dry.

Also I think it's 1/8" hose for the bleed nipple.
 
Same procedure with LSPV at the end:

BFS1dvk.jpg


-Charlie
 
10mm is the lines flare nuts the oem bleeders should be 10mm... However, lots of remain calipers have 8mm bleeders in them because 8mm and 5/16 is the exact same wrench.
 
2001 Abs Pump Module Master Booster Cylinder Assembly NOISE

Hey there,

Not enough replies to make a new post! So I'm not trying to hijack, but would love some insights!

My 2001 4runner has 290k on it, and I just started getting a loud bird shriek like noise from the Abs Pump Module Master Booster Cylinder Assembly.

I have read up a bit about them, seems possible to rebuild or just replace the booster portion if that is indeed the issue, available used and expensive as a new unit...

I posted a video of the noise here on you tube:

https://youtu.be/P_iwttctUQU

And I am not sure if this photo link will work but I can feel the resistance or strain when touching this red brake line when the noise is happening...

https://1drv.ms/i/c/6134bc20ed6547f2/EfSIe9D06RlFnJex8dHgenABNjQfsBX0bg55_6LqVnqo5g?e=1Gqdog

Anybody seen this before?

No codes, usually goes away after a few or a handful of times and drives and brakes just fine.

Also only happens when starting it up cold.

Thanks!

https://1drv.ms/i/c/6134bc20ed6547f2/EfSIe9D06RlFnJex8dHgenABNjQfsBX0bg55_6LqVnqo5g?e=1Gqdog
 
Hey there,

Not enough replies to make a new post! So I'm not trying to hijack, but would love some insights!

My 2001 4runner has 290k on it, and I just started getting a loud bird shriek like noise from the Abs Pump Module Master Booster Cylinder Assembly.

I have read up a bit about them, seems possible to rebuild or just replace the booster portion if that is indeed the issue, available used and expensive as a new unit...

I posted a video of the noise here on you tube:

https://youtu.be/P_iwttctUQU

And I am not sure if this photo link will work but I can feel the resistance or strain when touching this red brake line when the noise is happening...

https://1drv.ms/i/c/6134bc20ed6547f2/EfSIe9D06RlFnJex8dHgenABNjQfsBX0bg55_6LqVnqo5g?e=1Gqdog

Anybody seen this before?

No codes, usually goes away after a few or a handful of times and drives and brakes just fine.

Also only happens when starting it up cold.

Thanks!

https://1drv.ms/i/c/6134bc20ed6547f2/EfSIe9D06RlFnJex8dHgenABNjQfsBX0bg55_6LqVnqo5g?e=1Gqdog

Sounds like you have a seagull trapped under the hood!!LOL

Sorry couldn't help myself, I'm giving an educated guess it's the little electric motor that runs the ABS/Booster pump going bad,i.e. the brushes and or bearing going bad, it could also be the pump the motor runs as well, if it goes out completely you will get ABS and Brake warning lights and codes, also your brake pedal will go almost to the floor and be hard as a rock with very little braking action, if this does happen while driving be prepared to downshift and also use the parking brake along with the brake pedal to get it to come to a stop, this has happened on my 4th Gen recently!!

I replace my entire master cylinder/ASB assembly with a new OEM unit because I needed it done and done once, cost was around $1500 for the assembly and I installed it myself.

A 3rd Gen could be a little less or not, I got my parts from ToyotaPartsDeal, best price I could fine after shipping and taxes.

You can also buy a rebuild electric motor from some sources and or eBay , for I think around $300 to $500 and you have to send them back your old one, this may or maynot be your only issue.

Here's link to the master cylinder parts for your year model, more info will need to be added to know which parts are the correct ones.

2001 Toyota 4Runner Parts - ToyotaPartsDeal.com
 
Last edited:
Sounds like you have a seagull trapped under the hood!!LOL

Sorry couldn't help myself, I'm giving an educated guess it's the little electric motor that runs the ABS/Booster pump going bad,i.e. the brushes and or bearing going bad, it could also be the pump the motor runs as well, if it goes out completely you will get ABS and Brake warning lights and codes, also your brake pedal will go almost to the floor and be hard as a rock with very little braking action, if this does happen while driving be prepared to downshift and also use the parking brake along with the brake pedal to get it to come to a stop, this has happened on my 4th Gen recently!!

I replace my entire master cylinder/ASB assembly with a new OEM unit because I needed it done and done once, cost was around $1500 for the assembly and I installed it myself.

A 3rd Gen could be a little less or not, I got my parts from ToyotaPartsDeal, best price I could fine after shipping and taxes.

You can also buy a rebuild electric motor from some sources and or eBay , for I think around $300 to $500 and you have to send them back your old one, this may or maynot be your only issue.

Here's link to the master cylinder parts for your year model, more info will need to be added to know which parts are the correct ones.

2001 Toyota 4Runner Parts - ToyotaPartsDeal.com


Thank you very much for the info and the link, looks like a very good distributor.

Yeah it seems to go for a little under $1400 cost, and you make a good point about it not being a job I want to do more than once!

That being said, perhaps it is less enticing to think of digging into it and investigating a possible repair without more diagnostic or verifiable knowledge.

This is the first time I have encountered one of these all in one units. Sounds like they're pretty reliable but it having it all being consolidated into a unit is kind of a bummer! :thanks:

Thanks again!
 

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