brake bleeding problem

[someguy]

sorry if im in the wrong forum here. i didnt see a tech forum.

anyway, i have a 1993 4runner. when i bleed the brakes, i can get it to the point where the vehicle is driveable. but the brakes are still really squishy. it has that big ABS valve on it. so i was wondering if it has something to do with that?? i cant find any bleeder screws on it. and i cant find anything about it in my haynes manual??

ive tried bleeding it like a mad man. im going to try gravity bleeding it today. does anyone have any ideas??

thanks

 

[someguy]

anybody??

 

[toto]

Dude... it's only been 6 hours, and on a weekend no less. Please give folks a chance to see your post and respond. The right person will come along.

 

[Mr. Lambdebois]

When you manually bleed them all the air looks to be out?
You are closing the bleeder before you let the pedal back up? Assuming YES ......when you go drive it still feels spongy?


Did your master clinder run dry at any point of the brake change if you did one or when you bled the brakes?

Did you service the pads or rotors? Was there a spring that you could of put on backwards?

You man need to have the abs and or your master cylinder bled if air got in your master cylinder. Im not sure about your year vehicle without looking but the abs may have to be bled though a scan tool like newer cars. You may look into bleeding the abs and master cylinder if at anytime the master cylinder could have gone dry.

 

[someguy]

i am bleeding the brakes because i had to change out a few lines. so as far as the brakes go, nothing has changed. there is a possibility of the master cylinder going dry. how do i bleed that??

when i bleed the brakes, yes the line looks to be free of air. and yes i closed the bleeder before returning the pedal. and pedal still spongy.

a friend of mine has a scan tool, so i was going to try that out today. but after what you said. im thinking the culprit is in the master cylinder bleeding.

 

[Mr. Lambdebois]

there is a possibility of the master cylinder going dry. how do i bleed that??

If the master cylinder ran dry you will need to bleed it.
The master cylinder must be removed from the brake booster. You then take clear air line tube and attach it where the lines go and route them back up into the resivor. You will then have to push the primary piston in and out slowly and steadily several times untill you stop seeing bubbles come through the tubing into the resivoir.
Also if you push to fast you can induce smaller air bubbles that will take a while to go away and can not be bled untill they settle .......so slow and steady is the key.

After reinstalling you wouid then have to bleed the rest of the system again

when i bleed the brakes, yes the line looks to be free of air. and yes i closed the bleeder before returning the pedal. and pedal still spongy.

a friend of mine has a scan tool, so i was going to try that out today. but after what you said. im thinking the culprit is in the master cylinder bleeding.

I have limited exeriance with toyoyta's so I do not know if there abs in 93 was bleedable through a scan tool on your vehicle but defenately something you should be able to find out in any good manual or maybe through you friends scan tool. I would not be suprized that you can. I remember back in the toyota T- ten program all the things we could control on the camry with a scan tool. Do you know if you vehicle is obd2 ?(usually 94 and up) some went from obd1 to obd2 early though.....

If you can do that(abs) after the master cylinder and then bleed the lines through the calipers. You should of eliminated all the air in the system and be good to go.

You say you didn't change the pads or anything besides the brake lines right?