Brake bleeding sequence?

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You should start with the wheel closest to the master cylinder, and work you way to the wheel furthest away. So, it should be left front, right front, left rear, right rear.

That's just the opposite from correct.
You start with the wheel farthest from the MC.

So for most Toyota trucks it's
RL
RR
FR
FL
LSPV
and to answer you're next question, LSPV is the Load Sensing Proportioning Valve on the rear axle.
 
That's just the opposite from correct.
You start with the wheel farthest from the MC.

So for most Toyota trucks it's
RL
RR
FR
FL
LSPV
and to answer you're next question, LSPV is the Load Sensing Proportioning Valve on the rear axle.


thanks man, I thought it was furthest first. Where on the axle is it located?
 
That's just the opposite from correct.
You start with the wheel farthest from the MC.

So for most Toyota trucks it's
RL
RR
FR
FL
LSPV
and to answer you're next question, LSPV is the Load Sensing Proportioning Valve on the rear axle.

The information I provided was directly from the Toyota Factory Repair Manual, page 32-4.
 
factory manuals get it wrong sometimes... Ford was really bad with that.

start furthest from master cylinder and make sure your reservoir is full. you could suck out the fluid first and fill with clean fresh fluid. if you forget to fill it up, you'll be taking a ride to a repair shop to have your abs module bled.
 
factory manuals get it wrong sometimes... Ford was really bad with that.

start furthest from master cylinder and make sure your reservoir is full. you could suck out the fluid first and fill with clean fresh fluid. if you forget to fill it up, you'll be taking a ride to a repair shop to have your abs module bled.

You are basing your answer on the 'old', this is the way it always has been done, mantra. And, though I have seen some instances where a factory manual can be wrong, without specific proof to the contrary, there is no good reason to dismiss the proceedures in the manual just because you heard that it 'always' used to be done differently.

With the newer braking systems, ABS systems, load balancing FWD/AWD systems, the 'old' furthest away from the MC method may no longer be correct in all instances. If using 'your' method works for you, fine. But, don't be in such a rush to dismiss others, who have information that differs from yours.
 
The information I provided was directly from the Toyota Factory Repair Manual, page 32-4.

I looked at that, it uses a spl srvc tool to control things.
One could try it Toyotas order (providing he had the tool) and then the normal/old way, and see if one way produces better results than the other.
For ABS systems, you usually bleed it once with engine off, then with engine on, and once again with engine off.
 
talked to a buddy of mine thats been a mechanic for like 30 yrs, he says as long as i dont bleed the master dry, I only need to bleed the line to the caliper I am replaceing.
 
talked to a buddy of mine thats been a mechanic for like 30 yrs, he says as long as i dont bleed the master dry, I only need to bleed the line to the caliper I am replaceing.

I would agree. As long as you have a good, firm pedal feel when you are done. IMHO
 
actually I will completely go back on what I said... follow THE specific manual procedure if you can find it. some systems are different. I know better than that.
 

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