Brake Job (Rotors and Pads)
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CutthroatSlam
Senior Member
Get the best quality AC Delco Rotors and Raybestos pads you can buy on Rockauto.com.
Mullett757
New member
Anything specific I need to know when changing rotors and pads (front and rear)?
This is the first time I'm attempting this maintenance myself as I'm tired of paying for shoddy service.
I have a 2006 SR5 V6.
I'm also new to this forum thingy so .......
be prepared to replace a seized caliper. it happens a lot on ours and honestly its better to replace both then just one. I did one last year and 8 months later I had to do the second one
JeffMerr
New member
It really depends on where he lives. Both of my 4th gens were/are over 100k on original calipers with no issues. It seems like the rust states are the ones most common with the seizing calipers.
BackOff
New member
Anything specific I need to know when changing rotors and pads (front and rear)?
This is the first time I'm attempting this maintenance myself as I'm tired of paying for shoddy service.
I have a 2006 SR5 V6.
I'm also new to this forum thingy so .......
SR5 with 16" wheels have smaller front rotor.
Good info here...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/221604-rotors-brake-pads-recommendations.html
I hate my brakes...
Noisy, squeaky, eats the pads and are very dirty.
Drilled/slotted.
Prime Choice PR41329L and R, PR41296L and R
PowerStop Evolution ceramic pads 16-606, 16-976
OEM was better in my opinion... 60k without issue.
Last edited:
TowMeOut
New member
Rear e-brake mechanism and shoes are a HUGE pain. Be sure to read several how-to articles and get a good idea how to back off the darned shoes. If you start tugging on the "stuck" rotor, expect to see springs and pins go flying. They're a nightmare to reinstall.
My rear rotors were right at the wear limit (I was planning to just turn them). However, I ended up doing the rotors/pads using the Power Stop Autospeciality kits off Amazon. They seemed to get good reviews and so far so good. They've been on there a year without problems.
For the seized rotors there are several articles. I don't exactly know how/why they seize. While I had the front end apart doing CV work I pulled both calipers and very carefully pumped the brakes a bit and pushed the pistons out just a bit farther than they'd sit when installed. I hit the boot area with a plastic brush and plenty of brake cleaner to get any grit/grime out of the boot folds. This probably only lasted until my next wheeling trip but I'm hoping that a bit of preventative maintenance now and then might keep them from seizing up.
FYI....I'm in central FL so the "rust belt" issues don't apply but I work on the beach. There's sand and salt kicked up on my underside year round.
My rear rotors were right at the wear limit (I was planning to just turn them). However, I ended up doing the rotors/pads using the Power Stop Autospeciality kits off Amazon. They seemed to get good reviews and so far so good. They've been on there a year without problems.
For the seized rotors there are several articles. I don't exactly know how/why they seize. While I had the front end apart doing CV work I pulled both calipers and very carefully pumped the brakes a bit and pushed the pistons out just a bit farther than they'd sit when installed. I hit the boot area with a plastic brush and plenty of brake cleaner to get any grit/grime out of the boot folds. This probably only lasted until my next wheeling trip but I'm hoping that a bit of preventative maintenance now and then might keep them from seizing up.
FYI....I'm in central FL so the "rust belt" issues don't apply but I work on the beach. There's sand and salt kicked up on my underside year round.
Mullett757
New member
I was at 115k on the drivers OEM one and 126 on the passengers. this is a Virginia car its whole life
Samm25
New member
Just know that it’s going to take some time. I replaced my front rotors and pad and had to replace both front calipers as well. Everything is pretty tight on there so you’ll have to use some good ole man power to get the bolts loose.
I would recommend replacing all 4 calipers as well. I replaced pads and rotors then drove the truck and had to replace both calipers on front and rear, so it’s better to do it while you have the wheels off and the truck up than to have to take everything off again.
Other than that, it saves money, but is time consuming.
I’d recommend doing the front first and if the back isn’t completely shot, replace the a few weeks later.
I would recommend replacing all 4 calipers as well. I replaced pads and rotors then drove the truck and had to replace both calipers on front and rear, so it’s better to do it while you have the wheels off and the truck up than to have to take everything off again.
Other than that, it saves money, but is time consuming.
I’d recommend doing the front first and if the back isn’t completely shot, replace the a few weeks later.
Samm25
New member
Not necessarily. My truck has been a Texas vehicle it’s whole life and at 190k all calipers seized up. Not much rust on them either.
JeffMerr
New member
There's hundreds of thousands of high mileage 4runners on original calipers. Based on forum threads, the most common people who experience the seizing are the same people dealing with frame rust, salted roads, etc. If it ain't broke don't fix it.
