Brake light issue

MidwestJ

Member
Have a brake light issue (lower driver side)

It’s not the bulbs
I’ve changed bulbs repeatedly (brand new bulbs) and I’ve got no brake light. I’m confident I have the bulb fully seated.

My passenger side is fine. Works properly. Top hatch middle brake light works properly.

I don’t need a new light assembly do I?

The rear driver’s reverse light works properly.

Is it the tan plastic housing that the bulb seats into that needs replaced? WTH do you even call that part?

I replaced the bulb just a few weeks ago and it worked fine. Now the bulb shows a black, burned spot.

Thanks.
 
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Have a brake light issue (lower driver side)

It’s not the bulbs
I’ve changed bulbs repeatedly (brand new bulbs) and I’ve got no brake light. I’m confident I have the bulb fully seated.

My passenger side is fine. Works properly. Top hatch middle brake light works properly.

I don’t need a new light assembly do I?

The rear driver’s reverse light works properly.

Is it the tan plastic housing that the bulb seats into that needs replaced? WTH do you even call that part?

I replaced the bulb just a few weeks ago and it worked fine. Now the bulb shows a black, burne
d spot.

Thanks.

If your model is 2013 or earlier then
Socket; Socket & Wire Sub-Assembly - Toyota (90075-60033
 
maybe same problem with a 2011 I owned

I may not get this 100% right because it was years ago... but unplug light assem and check for voltage at plug ...if all is good... now start checking wiring on back of light assem...If I remember right I found a bad solder joint and re soldered it and all was good or I soldered a crimp joint... It was something along those lines.. its going to be in those wires to the bulb sockets.. I could be off a little but its diffidently fix able.
 
As mentioned there are previous threads on tail light issues that center around bad crimps on the wires that go to the socket that holds the bulb. A voltage check at the socket with the bulb removed compared to a voltage check to the wires just before they go into the socket will tell you if this is the case.

To test the wires before they go into the socket, use a sharp pointed probe or a pin attached to your meter lead to pierce the insulation. For this and the socket voltage check you have to be very careful not to short or ground out anything during the test or you could damage other circuits or one of the control computers in the vehicle. That will be expensive! If you want an example of this - look up the threads where people changed to LED lighting without disconnecting the battery.

I would find a good ground and attach the negative meter lead to that so you have your hands free to then test for 12 volts in the above two places. Have a helper step on the brakes when you are ready. Seriously - if you are unsure or not used to electrical troubleshooting, or using a volt / ohm meter then refer this issue to someone who is. You can seal the hole you made in the wire, during the before the socket test, with some of that liquid rubber stuff or nail polish. Also look for bad or loose connections, broken connectors, corroded pins or sockets.
 
Happened on my 2010 . Just replace the socket and you’ll be good to go .
I think it was 20 bucks at the dealer .
 
Thank you all.

I replaced the socket but that didn’t fix it.

So it’s the wiring going to my assembly.

I am having the same issue, only on the driver's side. I can move the bulb and tan plastic thingy to the passenger side and it works fine so it is not either of them. What did you end of doing to fix it?
 
I've been having this issue and tracked it down to the brass tabs on the amber bulb socket that aren't quite touching. I can push the socket to one side, and the brake light won't work. It's the socket that the wiring harness plugs into.

I ended up cleaning off each brass tab and slightly bending them up a tiny bit, and now I cannot get the brake light to "flicker" by pushing the socket to one side. We'll see how long it lasts.
 
I am having the same issue, only on the driver's side. I can move the bulb and tan plastic thingy to the passenger side and it works fine so it is not either of them. What did you end of doing to fix it?

Did you ever figure this out?

I did the same test as you.
I took the driver side brake light (bulp + tan socket) and tried them on the passenger side. It did not fix anything.

I am now trying to look at the tail light on the driver side, and the connections there from the wiring harness.
 

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