Brake line pimples!?

silliam

New member
Went to replace caliper on new (to me) '93 runner 4wd. The brake line to caliper has some blisters which are very soft, was afraid w to much pressure they might pop. Other parts of line are really hard like dry rot. Need to replace them huh? Did not actually do caliper yet, also found CV axle condition see pics, and figured I'd do all at the same time this weekend as their a local diy shop w a lift, and I don't have enough room in my garage. Anyone else have experience w these brake line issues? Is it an age or fluid thing? Also any experience w CV axle replacement? Have a yotatech link to someone that's done it? uploadfromtaptalk1434152199786.jpg
 

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yes .. for sure replace the brake line .. that is dangerous , it is an " age thing" , although uncommon for the most part , it happens !
 
Yup, those brake lines are toast. Now is the time to switch to stainless braided line, it makes a huge difference.

I'm sure there's several writeups for CV replacement on this site or on Yotatech if you need, but I don't think you do, they're pretty easy. Take off the hub face to expose the splined end, there's a single bolt on the end and a c-clip in a groove, remove both of those (it might be easier to pop the c-clip if you put a claw hammer on the bolt/washer in the end of the CV to pull it outboard first). There's six bolts on studs holding the inside of the CV to the halfshaft, remove those bolts. Now the FSM will tell you to pull the inside off the studs and drop the CV out, but as far as I'm concerned anybody that can do that has made a deal with the devil and should be burnt as a witch because I've never been able to just drop the CV out. There's two ways to make it easier - you can pop the upper ball joint and outboard the spindle enough that the CV clears the studs, or you can pound two or three of the studs out which should give you just enough clearance to slide the flange off the half shaft. My preference is to pound all the studs out and replace them with grade 8 stainless hardware, other guys grind the splines off the studs and reuse them, either way works.

If you get off pavement at all, stay away from the parts store CV shafts. Buy new from Toyota ($$$), or send your old shaft into CVJ as a core and have them send you one of their factory remans. Either is better than the parts store garbage - that lifetime Duralast warranty won't do you any good when you're miles from pavement with a busted shaft.
 
Thanks man! Need to get some line wrenches in order to pull brake line. Started on it but began to round 10mm nuts w box end. Called cvj looks like about $400 to get the axles here (then $150) back on core) don't have that until I sell the 95, so gotta figure out timing on shipping/sell as won't have vehicle.
 
Thanks man! Need to get some line wrenches in order to pull brake line. Started on it but began to round 10mm nuts w box end. Called cvj looks like about $400 to get the axles here (then $150) back on core) don't have that until I sell the 95, so gotta figure out timing on shipping/sell as won't have vehicle.
just an FYI, that is a brake HOSE. a brake line is hard.
 
Yes, duh (me not you). Any other advice for this bit? Soak the fitting w pb blaster and be careful?uploadfromtaptalk1434570344895.jpg
 

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Yes, duh (me not you). Any other advice for this bit? Soak the fitting w pb blaster and be careful?View attachment 161998
get a small torch and heat it.

also, when using the wrench, don't just push, give it sharp hits either with your hand, or a small hammer. this helps to break them loose. its easier to do than explain, I hope that makes sense...

as a last resort, you could try to some hook nose pliers. they work VERY well for that type of stuff. but its very easy to damage the nut so that a wrench wont work. luckily, you can usually tighten the nut again using the same pliers....
 
You can get a Vice Grip 10LW specialty tool to help a whole bunch.
These are about $20. There are a couple different sizes.
 

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