Brake pad brand recommendations

el_chapu-bling

New member
I am replacing the brake pads on my '00 V6 2WD and I just wanted to get an idea what everyone here recommends as far as brands and where to buy them (best prices, etc.) and which brands I should stay away from.

Also, is there a clear advantage (that is worth paying more for) to using ceramic over semi-metallic?

Thanks in advance.

Just as a FYI, Autozone has semi-metallic pads ranging from $14.99 to $45.99, and ceramic from $37.99 to $99.99.
 
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I don't know what people recommend I personally use rebestos' pads. If you search rotors or brakes most ppl post there pad preference with there rotor choice. I hear hawk makes a nice pad.
 
You may want to check into Performance Friction pads. They sell them at Autozone for around $40. I use them on my Tacoma and they work great!

Rumor has it that TRD used to outsource their brake pads from Performance Friction.
 
Would you guys use slotted rotors or OEM?

I am getting ready to service my brakes and have been searching for slotted rotors for a good price. If you know of a place please point me in the right direction.

Cheers,
-J
 
search eBay, bought a few sets for some different cars ont here and never had a problem with them. Burtman seems a bit expensive on his stuff. Ok ok he seems very expensive. I am sure it is higher quality but I can't seem to justify the price.
 
i bought Pro Stop Cross drilled rotors and Hawk ceramic pads as a result of the warped rotor syndrom. my new setup is extreamly dusty and does not have enough improvement to justify the extra cost($100-150)
 
gapboi210 said:
Cross drilled rotors just keep the brakes cooler and prevents fade and floating. The dust is from the pads.

The purpose for crossdrilled rotors was never to help cool them.
Brake pads don't outgas at any tempertures that they are anywhere close to like see in our use, so it's not a problem.

Crossdrilled and/or slotted rotors will not give you the same braking performance that solid (vented) rotors will.
Crossdrilling and/or slotting remove mass and surface area from the rotor which degrades it's performance, eveything else being the same.




Fred
 
On a lot of the late '90's and early 00's GM sedans were very prone to warping the rotors very easily. Afte the upgrade customers never had that problem again/ And I don't think you can compare Nascar to a 4Runner. They have air ducts directly on the brakes. The cross-drilling does help keep them cooler and remove water and debris through the slotting
 
again, to each his own. if you feel better having slotted rotors, thats the rotor for you. if you have any inclination to buy them, do it...or else youll blame everything on your brakes.
i feel no need for slotted drilled rotors. extra $$$$ didnt yield any difference from the blanks on now.

brembo and oem is a deadly combo proven to work. PERIOD

the choose is yours my son!
 
Honestly I don't think the 4Runner needs cross-drilled or slotted rotors in every day driving. I was saying I have seen some factory setups that were very prone to overheating and fading. The 4Runner doesn't seem to be like that.

Mine has new pads and rotors but it just doesn't have a lot of "grab." If the pavement is dry and u nail the brakes, the pedal pressure is good but it stops ok, but I have driven some suvs that if you nail the brakes it nose dives and ABS pumps. The 4Runner doesn't seem to grab very hard.

I drove a '98 2wd and it had very touchy brakes. Is mine like this due to the added weight of 4x4 and also the new tires have more grip?

Thx
 
hey GB, that was a general statement, not directed directly to you.

maybe the bigger tires is the issue but the added 4wd isnt much.

maybe its time for some tundra calipers?!!!
 
gapboi210 said:
On a lot of the late '90's and early 00's GM sedans were very prone to warping the rotors very easily. Afte the upgrade customers never had that problem again/ And I don't think you can compare Nascar to a 4Runner. They have air ducts directly on the brakes. The cross-drilling does help keep them cooler and remove water and debris through the slotting


Mmmm, Gen II 4Runners hace air ducts that point directly at the brakes.


Crossdrilling does NOT make 'em run cooler and was never designed for cooling.
The original use for cross drilling was to provide a way to let the gas that the pads produce escape instead of building up as a layer between the pad and the rotor.
Pads no longer outgas at least in the temperature range that they even come close to seeing in out applications.
NASCAR can be looked at.
If crossdrilling was required for cooling and/or outgassing it would be done.
It's not.
NASCAR cars need all the brake cooling that they can get. If crossdrilling helped in any way at all you can bet your butt that they would be running crossdrilled rotors.
I've invloved with Sprint cars and we use a solid (vented) rotor. No crossdrilling at all.
They use a singe rear, inboard rotor that can reach temps in tht 1000* range. If crossdrilling helped in any way you can bet they'ld be on the cars.

Here's a photo taken (at night) of a rotor on a Sprint just as it pulled into the pit area. This is a color photo, and yes, the color is correct. It's not glowing red hot. It's well past that and is white hot.
You search up and figure the temperture that cast iron has to get before it reaches white in color.

rotor1.jpg




:)
Fred
 
el_chapu-bling said:
I am replacing the brake pads on my '00 V6 2WD and I just wanted to get an idea what everyone here recommends as far as brands and where to buy them (best prices, etc.) and which brands I should stay away from.

Also, is there a clear advantage (that is worth paying more for) to using ceramic over semi-metallic?

Thanks in advance.

Just as a FYI, Autozone has semi-metallic pads ranging from $14.99 to $45.99, and ceramic from $37.99 to $99.99.

Great post... however can you all stay on topic and take that drill/slotted rotor stuff somewhere else...

No back to the original question.

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=88

Go creamic. it worth the $$$.
 
Last edited:
hey OUA the whole point of a thread is for people to try and help each toher by putting what knowledge they have aof a topic and let the erpson decide for themselves. So wah. cry about it.
 
BTW the reason that race cars may not use cross drilled is because the reduction in structural integrity for constant high speed breaking. There maybe a risk of cracking a rotor.
 
i personally have crossed drilled on my 96 4runner the difference i have is the truck stops better with them but plus i have had alot of braking problems from rotors warping bad to pads in even ware to a caliper sticking but now that all of its fixed i like the cross drilled but plus they ended up costing me alot less for them then stock rotors i paid $125 for pads and rotors total and it was still cheaper then cost since thats wat i pay for my parts but i honestly would rather have that because when they get wet they still do stop well as when i had the stock rotors the truck did not wanna stop once they got wet but thats a personal opinion and you probly could find a nice but not expensive set of cross drilled on ebay i did and im very happy with mine
 

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