Brake Pedal to the Floor

[thight]

Hey there everyone and thank you in advance for your help!

I have searched and read a ton of threads, but I can't find anything specific on my problem.

I replaced all my brake lines with SS lines (even extended rear lines) and the install was nice and simple. Once the lines were on, it was time to bleed the lines. The rears bleed no problem and my pedal was becoming stiffer. As I started on the front right (passenger) my brake pedal instantly hit the floor and now it has zero pressure.

Even if I pump the brakes 20/30 times and tried to bleed them, nothing happens and the pedal continues to hit the floor. I can hear the booster solenoid kicking on, but the stiff pedal isn't coming back what so ever. The ABS, VSC and traction control lights are coming on and the ABS is beeping. The brake fluid was pretty dirty, so is there maybe something clogged somewhere?

I tried retracing my steps and going from furthest back to the front and nothing is helping. Am I missing something? Should the cap be on or off when bleeding to create vacuum/pressure?

I seriously though this would take 2 hours tops and I've been stuck since yesterday!

 

[T4r.Chris]

If it was all working fine before the new lines and you were swapping lines as you removed them a blockage is minimal.

Noticing any leaks with the new lines? I’ve always had the cap off when doing brakes. Always start farthest from master cylinder (RR, RL, FR, FL). Do you have someone watching the cylinder when you’re bleeding them? If the fluid drops too low you’ll just be adding more air causing that sinking pedal.

***edited***

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[thight]

If it was all working fine before the new lines and you were swapping lines as you removed them a blockage is minimal.

Noticing any leaks with the new lines? I’ve always had the cap off when doing brakes. Always start farthest from master cylinder (RR, RL, FR, FL). Do you have someone watching the cylinder when you’re bleeding them? If the fluid drops too low you’ll just be adding more air causing that sinking pedal.

***edited***

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haven't noticed any leaks as all tires are off so I can inspect as the "pumping" is going on. Doing one or two releases of air and then checking MC to make sure fluid is at appropriate level. Everything was fine till the front brake, I just don't get it...

 

[TrueNorth4Runner]

Not sure if this will help, but when I did the brake bleed in my last vehicle (1997 GMC Safari....don't laugh... it was low mile and AWD! haha), I had the same. Did all 4 corners, changed lines, went to bleed, rear went fine, front went DEAD. And stayed dead.

Turned out, it just took me adding more fluid to the reservoir and just pumping like a madman (more than 50 pumps) lol. Eventually it caught on and started building pressure. Seems that removing the lines really bled a bunch of fluid and let the air in.

So maybe before trying anything else, take the cap off the master, see how much fluid is there (add some if need be) and keep pumping.

On a side note, I do believe I still had someone working the bleeder when I did that.

So essentially *bleeder closed* - PUMP PUMP PUMP - *have my dad open bleeder, thought nothing happened* - Repeat. Just to get any air out and trying to get the fluid to displace empty space

I KNOW this all seems really "duh, obvious" but just MAYBE you didn't check fluid and give it enough patience/pumps?

Unless there is some trick to bleeding T4R calipers, but I don't think so?

 

[MikeinNH67]

Sounds like you may have air trapped in the master cylinder. When bleeding, is the level dropping and fluid coming out the brake cylinder you are opening?

 

[T4r.Chris]

Haven't noticed any leaks as all tires are off so I can inspect as the "pumping" is going on. Doing one or two releases of air and then checking MC to make sure fluid is at appropriate level. Everything was fine till the front brake, I just don't get it...

No leaks is good.

I’ve always left my master cylinder full when bleeding brakes, even though it may look good after doesn’t mean as you’re pumping it is sucking dry. Wrap some towels around the MC fill her up close to top and pump! Probably just a massive air bubble stuck in the new lines. Once you’re done get a fluid pump or something to pull the excess from the MC.

Keep us updated!


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[thight]

No leaks is good.

I’ve always left my master cylinder full when bleeding brakes, even though it may look good after doesn’t mean as you’re pumping it is sucking dry. Wrap some towels around the MC fill her up close to top and pump! Probably just a massive air bubble stuck in the new lines. Once you’re done get a fluid pump or something to pull the excess from the MC.

Keep us updated!


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Not sure how to tag all that responded. But I figured it out. Turned out to be a HUGE air bubble in the line on the front driver side. Sounded like a firework when the air was being released!

But to solve it I went very slowly and was extremely thorough. So happy to have her back on the ground and man what a difference in pedal feel. Super firm and I can really lock up the brakes if needed. The fluid was SO dirty so I'm sure my lines are very happy with all the new fluid running through them too.

Thanks again everyone!

 

[thight]

Not sure if this will help, but when I did the brake bleed in my last vehicle (1997 GMC Safari....don't laugh... it was low mile and AWD! haha), I had the same. Did all 4 corners, changed lines, went to bleed, rear went fine, front went DEAD. And stayed dead.

Turned out, it just took me adding more fluid to the reservoir and just pumping like a madman (more than 50 pumps) lol. Eventually it caught on and started building pressure. Seems that removing the lines really bled a bunch of fluid and let the air in.

So maybe before trying anything else, take the cap off the master, see how much fluid is there (add some if need be) and keep pumping.

On a side note, I do believe I still had someone working the bleeder when I did that.

So essentially *bleeder closed* - PUMP PUMP PUMP - *have my dad open bleeder, thought nothing happened* - Repeat. Just to get any air out and trying to get the fluid to displace empty space

I KNOW this all seems really "duh, obvious" but just MAYBE you didn't check fluid and give it enough patience/pumps?

Unless there is some trick to bleeding T4R calipers, but I don't think so?

It was definitely the "duh, obvious." Wasn't patient enough and just had a HUGE air bubble on the driver front. Thanks for pitching in on the mystery!

 

[thight]

Sounds like you may have air trapped in the master cylinder. When bleeding, is the level dropping and fluid coming out the brake cylinder you are opening?

Figured it out! Just a massive air bubble in the line. Just needed patience and 100 more pumps!

 

[TrueNorth4Runner]

It was definitely the "duh, obvious." Wasn't patient enough and just had a HUGE air bubble on the driver front. Thanks for pitching in on the mystery!

Yay! I'm useful! hahah

I'm happy you got it figured out!