2004 SR5 2WD: Was getting brake pull to the left when braking. Did a complete brake job including replacing the frozen passenger side caliper. It is still pulling, but only when you first apply the brake. The pull doesn't persist. It's like the new caliper is slow to engage. I've bled the fronts, and I did rotors and pads. Any ideas? Thx.
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brake question
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2004 SR5 2WD: Was getting brake pull to the left when braking. Did a complete brake job including replacing the frozen passenger side caliper. It is still pulling, but only when you first apply the brake. The pull doesn't persist. It's like the new caliper is slow to engage. I've bled the fronts, and I did rotors and pads. Any ideas? Thx.
2 thoughts, it could be because you only replaced one of the front calipers, I always replace them in pairs not just one.
Second thought, did you replace the front rubber/flexible brakes lines(?), one or both could be past it's life span and deteriorating on the insides.
2004 SR5 2WD: Was getting brake pull to the left when braking. Did a complete brake job including replacing the frozen passenger side caliper. It is still pulling, but only when you first apply the brake. The pull doesn't persist. It's like the new caliper is slow to engage. I've bled the fronts, and I did rotors and pads. Any ideas? Thx.
2 thoughts, it could be because you only replaced one of the front calipers, I always replace them in pairs not just one, so they function the same.
Second thought, did you replace the front rubber/flexible brakes lines(?), one or both could be past it's life span and deteriorating on the insides and inhibiting proper flow.
2004 SR5 2WD: Was getting brake pull to the left when braking. Did a complete brake job including replacing the frozen passenger side caliper. It is still pulling, but only when you first apply the brake. The pull doesn't persist. It's like the new caliper is slow to engage. I've bled the fronts, and I did rotors and pads. Any ideas? Thx.
Check the items that AU suggested. When I got my T4R, the brakes pulled hard to the left. When I replaced the hydro-boost pump and accumulator, I had to bleed the ABS valve block. This cured the pull and now it brakes perfectly. This happened without replacing rotors, pads, lines, etc.
I replaced the hydroboost accumulater a while back and no problems. I replaced the flex lines in front. I did not bleed the abs valve block when I bled the system. Not sure how to do that. Is there a video or thread for that? Thx.
If you didn't open up or remove the ABS valve body I don't think you would or could get any air in it to bleed out...BUT if you did the only real way to bleed it is by using a SST/scanner to open the ABS valves to bleed out any air while doing a normal brake bleeding....BUT it has been said by others here that if you brake real hard so as to activate the ABS system several times the air can/will move out of the valve body and into the brake lines so normal bleeding can remove the air.
I replaced my entire master cylinder ABS assembly with a new OEM assembly and all I did was just bleed the master cylinder brake lines at the master cylinder and my brakes are great, didn't have to bleed the calipers or do anything with the ABS valve body.
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If you didn't open up or remove the ABS valve body I don't think you would or could get any air in it to bleed out...BUT if you did the only real way to bleed it is by using a SST/scanner to open the ABS valves to bleed out any air while doing a normal brake bleeding....BUT it has been said by others here that if you brake real hard so as to activate the ABS system several times the air can/will move out of the valve body and into the brake lines so normal bleeding can remove the air.
I replaced my entire master cylinder ABS assembly with a new OEM assembly and all I did was just bleed the master cylinder brake lines at the master cylinder and my brakes are great, didn't have to bleed the calipers or do anything with the ABS valve body.
I wish I had the diagnostic tool to bleed the valve block. I replaced the pump/accumulator twice (don't ask, lol) and both times, the entire hydro-boost assembly came out. I did the shade tree bleed both times. To be clear, I can't say if hydro-boost assembly was the cure but it was the only item in the brake system that I worked on and it did not pull afterwards. 10,000 miles of good braking tells me the pull issue is gone.
I replaced the hydroboost accumulater a while back and no problems. I replaced the flex lines in front. I did not bleed the abs valve block when I bled the system. Not sure how to do that. Is there a video or thread for that? Thx.
As with any advice from the internet, if you are the least bit uncomfortable with working on your truck, see a mechanic. If you are unsure of your results, see a mechanic. The risk is yours. The reward will also be yours.
Here is how I did mine. Have assistant press brake pedal. Crack the metal lines coming to and from the valve block. If you see clear fluid coming out, good. If you see bubbles, not good. Tighten nuts and then repeat until no bubbles come out. My assistant was a tool bag, lol. Find an open stretch of road where you can safety activate ABS and TCS to get any air in the block moving. Dusty, leafy, or wet conditions will help. Repeat entire process as necessary. I got mine to feel and perform well after one round of shade tree bleeding. As I mentioned earlier, I have about 10,000 miles since the bleed and all is well. This includes an emergency stop at highway speeds in which there was no fade.
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