Brake upgrade

[zidaro]

Ill add my opinion. Since thats what we all have. and were on the topic of brake upgrades.

If your doing much off pavement driving-

Slotted rotors have the advantage of clearing water and small debris from the rotor, sweeping said product off the rotor as it rotates.

Drilled rotors can actually capture debris and damage the pad. If you are a roadracer or tow tremendous loads with ridiculous heavy braking then drilled rotors may be an advantage. Not so much in a 4runner typically.

Bigger rotors and more braking surface is always better and will let you run cooler. I upgraded to the 5th gen fr/rr calipers, 5th gen. front rotors/4th gen rear rotors for this reason. And cuz 4th gen calipers are notorious for seizing (5th gens can also have this issue).
Im also a fan of the cryo'ed rotors b/c they are much more difficult to warp.

 

[bdp1978]

So, not to rain on anyones parade. But this is incorrect for our 4runners /Toyotas with ABS systems.
Heres how i bleed my '10 tundra, 5th gen and 4th gen 4runners. Works perfect with a firm pedal first push. If your soft, you've still got air.

follow this- http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2455860-post76.html

Um....how was I incorrect? Its the exact same procedure as outlined in the diagram post above under #3 how to bleed the front brake lines?

And its the EXACT same way you post on the other link?

BLEED BRAKE LINE
(a) Turn the ignition switch to ON, and wait until the
pump motor has stopped.
HINT:
Pump operating sound can be heard.
(b) Front brake line.
(1) Connect the vinyl tube to the brake caliper.
(2) Depress the brake pedal several times, then
loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held
down (step D).
(3) At the point when the fluid stops coming out,
tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake
pedal (step E).
(4) Repeat steps D and E until all the air in the fluid
has been bled out.
Torque: 11 N*m (110 kgf*cm, 8 ft.*lbf)
(5) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the
other brake line.

 

[leftyguns21]

Ill add my opinion. Since thats what we all have. and were on the topic of brake upgrades.

If your doing much off pavement driving-

Slotted rotors have the advantage of clearing water and small debris from the rotor, sweeping said product off the rotor as it rotates.

Drilled rotors can actually capture debris and damage the pad. If you are a roadracer or tow tremendous loads with ridiculous heavy braking then drilled rotors may be an advantage. Not so much in a 4runner typically.

Bigger rotors and more braking surface is always better and will let you run cooler. I upgraded to the 5th gen fr/rr calipers, 5th gen. front rotors/4th gen rear rotors for this reason. And cuz 4th gen calipers are notorious for seizing (5th gens can also have this issue).

Im also a fan of the cryo'ed rotors b/c they are much more difficult to warp.

correct me if I am wrong, I read that cross drilled also weakens the rotor. I went dimpled to get the more cooling but not to lose much of its structure and not catch all of the debris.

 

[zidaro]

Um....how was I incorrect?

Sorry if i misread.

I was going off this- from your post.
"As far as bleeding if youre doing all 4 start at the passenger rear...you always start at the caliper farthest from the master cylinder."

This is completely correct with my 87 runner, old school brake systems you start from the furthest point then work back to the master.
ABS systems are opposite. you want to bleed the front first on ABS systems, depressing the pedal VERY gently so as to not aerate your fluids ~10times, bleed. Repeat till NO bubbles, do it a few more times for good measure, then maybe a few more.
Then bleed the rears which do not require pedal depression.


As far as the type of drillings made in the rotor. the idea is that small bits of road debris or gravel can get wedged up into a hole, be it cross-drilled or offset drilled, and then damage your pad as it tears across it or worse.

 

[jfry008]

Did new pads, rotors, calipers, and stainless lines on the front. New Pads and rotors on rear.

The stainless lines get rid of that 4runner soft pedal feel that seems to be common in all of them. Brings it up and you get immediate pressure.

Mine was exactly the same. Very soft....2 pumps to get it to come up etc. Its because the 1st pump expands the sh*tty soft brake lines...the 2nd pump gives you the pressure.


As far as bleeding if youre doing all 4 start at the passenger rear...you always start at the caliper farthest from the master cylinder.

Ive never had much luck with vacuum bleeders etc. I just find an appropriate sized broom handle etc, wrap a towel around the end that will contact the seat and do the pump, pump, pump, hold with broom handle and crack your bleeder until each caliper is done.

Soft brake pedal is from air in the brake system. Not soft rubber lines.
If it was from soft rubber brake lines then you would need to replace all 6 rubber lines, not just the front 2 lol