brakes not working well

[jasonp99]

Hello!

My '99 4Runner SR5 brakes are having serious issues. The brake pedal is extremely hard to push down, I really have to use a lot of force to get it down to get the brakes to start working. At idle, same thing, the pedal pushes back against my foot, so I just put it in park instead.

I checked the brake fluid, it's full. Could this be something simple to fix, or something expensive like the master cylinder?

Thanks!

 

[BamaDrewski]

Hello!

My '99 4Runner SR5 brakes are having serious issues. The brake pedal is extremely hard to push down, I really have to use a lot of force to get it down to get the brakes to start working. At idle, same thing, the pedal pushes back against my foot, so I just put it in park instead.

I checked the brake fluid, it's full. Could this be something simple to fix, or something expensive like the master cylinder?

Thanks!

Jason, hate to hear you are having this issue. I just got done battling (and diagnosing) the same issue a few weeks ago.

If the pedal is rock hard, it means you are not getting the power assist from the brake booster. This is caused by the brake booster seals usually failing and not holding a vacuum. I went through everything from brake bleeds to master cylinders before I figured out I had to get a new booster. Ordered one from CarID (Cardone brand) and it was $225+$50 core charge. Wish I could give you better news. My original brake booster lasted 294K miles though.....

 

[octanejunkie]

I'm sure you can take your chances with a junk yard MC and booster for less than that, but brakes are nothing to skim on

Are the stock ones rebuildable?

 

[BamaDrewski]

I'm sure you can take your chances with a junk yard MC and booster for less than that, but brakes are nothing to skim on

Are the stock ones rebuildable?

I actually went to Pull-A-Part and bought a donor brake booster only to see that it was bad as well. Threw away more money and time than I needed to. I would recommend a new booster unless someone will sell you a used one and guarantee it is operational....

 

[octanejunkie]

I actually went to Pull-A-Part and bought a donor brake booster only to see that it was bad as well. Threw away more money and time than I needed to. I would recommend a new booster unless someone will sell you a used one and guarantee it is operational....

You can get a warranty from most yards, and on a part like that I would

 

[jasonp99]

Wow, that is a bummer. Got a quote from my usual mechanic for $700. I wish I had the luck of some of you guys with your 4Runner's. Mine has 175000 miles and has all these issues (i've owned since 90000 miles):

- brake booster
- transmission pretty much shot (it was really bad, had to really press the gas to get it to go from idle, shuddering, lurching from idle, going up hills was really bad. Took it to transmission shop for estimate, they wanted $3500 minimum. But did say I was down 2 quarts tran fluid so they refilled for no cost at least. Then it was *much* better. Doesn't lurch anymore, it will start moving from idle, but it still shudders some getting up to speed).
- door locks don't work when very hot (I read about fix for this)
- power rear window doesn't work when very cold (also read about possible fix)
- dash light just went out on tachometer (ha ha)
- power antenna motor not working (ok, this wasn't working when I bought it and it didn't bother me enough to fix it, except for the annoying noise the motor makes when you start the car up).
- timing belt hasn't been changed since 75k miles so it could probably go at any moment.
- registration just expired!!
- slight depression in rear side molding from navigation-challenged deer.

So, car is worth about $1600 if at least the transmission and brakes were working good. I'm already looking for a new car so I think I'll not fix anything and just deal with the terrible brake pedal for another week or so (I hope). Maybe if the dealer does not offer me anything for trade-in I'll try the brake booster install I read about, though it would still cost almost $300.

I'm going to really miss my (working) 4Runner, especially the power rear window which I think is the best feature of the entire vehicle. I don't like the new 4Runner's, too big, no fuel economy improvement, lower clearance, less rear leg room.

 

[BamaDrewski]

Wow, that is a bummer. Got a quote from my usual mechanic for $700. I wish I had the luck of some of you guys with your 4Runner's. Mine has 175000 miles and has all these issues (i've owned since 90000 miles):

- brake booster
- transmission pretty much shot (it was really bad, had to really press the gas to get it to go from idle, shuddering, lurching from idle, going up hills was really bad. Took it to transmission shop for estimate, they wanted $3500 minimum. But did say I was down 2 quarts tran fluid so they refilled for no cost at least. Then it was *much* better. Doesn't lurch anymore, it will start moving from idle, but it still shudders some getting up to speed).
- door locks don't work when very hot (I read about fix for this)
- power rear window doesn't work when very cold (also read about possible fix)
- dash light just went out on tachometer (ha ha)
- power antenna motor not working (ok, this wasn't working when I bought it and it didn't bother me enough to fix it, except for the annoying noise the motor makes when you start the car up).
- timing belt hasn't been changed since 75k miles so it could probably go at any moment.
- registration just expired!!
- slight depression in rear side molding from navigation-challenged deer.

So, car is worth about $1600 if at least the transmission and brakes were working good. I'm already looking for a new car so I think I'll not fix anything and just deal with the terrible brake pedal for another week or so (I hope). Maybe if the dealer does not offer me anything for trade-in I'll try the brake booster install I read about, though it would still cost almost $300.

I'm going to really miss my (working) 4Runner, especially the power rear window which I think is the best feature of the entire vehicle. I don't like the new 4Runner's, too big, no fuel economy improvement, lower clearance, less rear leg room.

Jason, the 3rd gen 4runner is probably one of the most durable vehicles around. As far as the mechanic quoting $700 - tell him to go pound salt! Changing out the brake booster is easy. You take off the master cylinder and push it to the side. Take out the vacuum canister (very easy) and then get under the driver's side steering column and take off four nuts and pull the booster out. You will be out $225 buying a new brake booster online. (there will be a core charge which you get back).

As far as the transmission goes, it might be too far gone but there are some things you can do easily to get it running for a little bit more. Flush the system (lots of DIY how-tos on the net) and add some Lucas Transfix. It might help. (I also cycle through the lower end gears quote frequently to get fluid through them). Consider a $30 MagnaFine filter.....they work and will capture any metal shavings. I am not saying all this will "renew" your tranny but it will save you some time and money for now.

We all have the door lock issues and they are annoying. New door lock actuators (or replacing the motors in each) can help fix that.

Dash light bulb replacement is simple, simple, simple.

Power antenna is fairly easy as well.

My point is this. If your cehicle is PAID FOR, putting in some $$$ to fix it right (DIY) will save you money in the long run and you will learn alot as well. My friends, who drive around in Ford F250's and such rag me about driving an almost 18 year old rig. I ask them how much they fork out a month and they said "round $700". When you add the vehicle insurance to that - they are throwing out $800-$850 a month.

Give your rig some TLC and you won't regret it. All it takes is time, knowledge (you can get on this forum) and less money than paying your mechanic a $475 mark up to replace the brake booster which you can do yourself! I would always be willing to help you and walk you through these things as I have done them all before. Good luck man!

 

[SpidermanGeek]

- timing belt hasn't been changed since 75k miles so it could probably go at any moment.

lol. 118K miles since teh TB in mine's been changed. I'm not even worried. I'm more worried about the still original WP and tensioners though.

 

[jasonp99]

Thanks Bama, I will give your notes serious consideration!

Cheers,
-Jason