I bought my 2000 4runner last Dec 07. The Toyota dealership changed the rotors for me after I complained about the brakes pulsating. It was smooth for a while but the pulsating returned. They changed them again under warranty but the same problem has resurfaced. Is there a design problem that anyone is aware on this year of 4runner. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I love the truck but the brakes stink.
Brakes
- Thread starter RichardY
- Start date
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4Evr4RunN3R
New member
The brakes on the 3rd gen 4runners aren't exactly the best from what i know. Many people have experienced warped rotors from the weak breaks. Thats if warped rotors are your problem. also if you want better braking performance, then you might want to consider a tundra brake upgrade.
Tundra brakes are not the only solution. I think I just posted about this in this forum within the last week. Might try a search.
Check the rear brakes to make sure they are adjusted. This is usually the problem. Also make sure all the lug nuts are torqued properly. Incorrect torque can lead to warpage on overheated rotors.
Check the rear brakes to make sure they are adjusted. This is usually the problem. Also make sure all the lug nuts are torqued properly. Incorrect torque can lead to warpage on overheated rotors.
I have replaced my rotors 2 times in 3 years. The rears are fine and my pads get replaced with the rotors. The pads are usually only about half gone. 1 set i used were cross drilled and they offered no stopping improvement or life. The plain oem replacements are the way to go. they seem to be lasting longer then the drilled.
Stick Figure
New member
111db said:
The wheel torque is a good point, MR2's are notorious for that as well. What is the exact torque spec for the lugs on the 4R?
NDRYDEN123
New member
don't worry, you aren't the only one with this problem. I am experienceing this same thing with my 2003 4runner. still not sure what the problem is.
Ron Helmuth
Senior Member
85 ft lbs but be sure
Not sure if aftermarket wheels would alter the figure-but for stock wheels I believe the figure to be 85 ft lbs.
Any tire shop should have this data-possibly even tire rack online.
Remember to retighten after a few miles of driving- some say 25 miles some say 100 miles- the important thing is to recheck them.
Stick Figure said:
Not sure if aftermarket wheels would alter the figure-but for stock wheels I believe the figure to be 85 ft lbs.
Any tire shop should have this data-possibly even tire rack online.
Remember to retighten after a few miles of driving- some say 25 miles some say 100 miles- the important thing is to recheck them.
Stick Figure
New member
Re: 85 ft lbs but be sure
yeah but 85 is a general number that is used by most wheel shops i know the MR2, and IS300 are both listed at 76lb-ft (per toyota) i'll have to see what the service manual shows for the 4runner.
Ron Helmuth said:
yeah but 85 is a general number that is used by most wheel shops i know the MR2, and IS300 are both listed at 76lb-ft (per toyota) i'll have to see what the service manual shows for the 4runner.
Advice
Do yourself a favor and do the Tundra upgrade.
I went through Cross drilled and still same issue.
Done my tundra upgrade in Feb NOT A SINGLE VIBRATION SINCE!
Advice, go with HAWK PADS or some good Autozone Carbon-Metallic and not the ceramics. they tend to SQUEEEK!
BTW, you can do it yourself too!
No issues....
my 40 cents and a cow..
Do yourself a favor and do the Tundra upgrade.
I went through Cross drilled and still same issue.
Done my tundra upgrade in Feb NOT A SINGLE VIBRATION SINCE!
Advice, go with HAWK PADS or some good Autozone Carbon-Metallic and not the ceramics. they tend to SQUEEEK!
BTW, you can do it yourself too!
No issues....
my 40 cents and a cow..
Re: Advice
You can't just throw out the Tundra brake conversion like it's the only solution. It is NOT. There are plenty of people that have done this conversion that is way overkill for their application.
To the OP: If you tow a lot, or use your brakes extensively, then the Tundra solution might be for you. However, I'd still suggest doing the following.
Get yourself a good blank rotor (not cross-drilled or slotted. They will not help with cooling). Brembo makes good blanks, so does Autozone Duralast. I went with Duralast, because they have a 2 year warranty, so if they warp again, take them in and get a new set of rotors. Also, get a good set of ceramic pads. Hawk LTS pads are good, but again, I went with Autozone ceramics. Be sure to put lots of anti-squeal grease on the BACK of the pads. Then bed in the pads properly. I have not had squeals at all with this set up. Nor have I had the warping issue, and that is with going down a steep canyon road on a regular basis.
I don't haul a lot nor tow much, so the Tundra would've just been a waste of money for me. Oh, like others have said, make sure your rear drums are adjusted properly, too.
ambush said:
You can't just throw out the Tundra brake conversion like it's the only solution. It is NOT. There are plenty of people that have done this conversion that is way overkill for their application.
To the OP: If you tow a lot, or use your brakes extensively, then the Tundra solution might be for you. However, I'd still suggest doing the following.
Get yourself a good blank rotor (not cross-drilled or slotted. They will not help with cooling). Brembo makes good blanks, so does Autozone Duralast. I went with Duralast, because they have a 2 year warranty, so if they warp again, take them in and get a new set of rotors. Also, get a good set of ceramic pads. Hawk LTS pads are good, but again, I went with Autozone ceramics. Be sure to put lots of anti-squeal grease on the BACK of the pads. Then bed in the pads properly. I have not had squeals at all with this set up. Nor have I had the warping issue, and that is with going down a steep canyon road on a regular basis.
I don't haul a lot nor tow much, so the Tundra would've just been a waste of money for me. Oh, like others have said, make sure your rear drums are adjusted properly, too.
Many times, the pulsation is not caused by rotors that are physically warped.
When you get the brakes hot, such as stopping with a trailer or at the bottom of a long or steep hill, it is important to release the brakes while they cool down.
If you keep the pads pressed against the rotors while they cool, the rest of the rotor surface cools at a different rate than the area under the pads. This results in a surface with a different frictional characteristic and the resulting feel of pulsation.
When the brakes are hot, release your foot pressure and set the parking brake.
I had a 98 and now I have an 01 that I use to tow my race car and my rotor problems stopped after I started this practice.
When you get the brakes hot, such as stopping with a trailer or at the bottom of a long or steep hill, it is important to release the brakes while they cool down.
If you keep the pads pressed against the rotors while they cool, the rest of the rotor surface cools at a different rate than the area under the pads. This results in a surface with a different frictional characteristic and the resulting feel of pulsation.
When the brakes are hot, release your foot pressure and set the parking brake.
I had a 98 and now I have an 01 that I use to tow my race car and my rotor problems stopped after I started this practice.