Brian's Duplicolor 3rd Gen Wheel Painting - A How To Story

BrianSD_42

New member
I recently painted my factory 5 Stars with Duplicolor Wheel Paint.

This is how I did it. Pictures below.

Buy ~ $55 Paint:
* Green Self Etching Primer x 3 cans ($8 each) | http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DAP1690-General-Purpose-Self-Etching/dp/B002984MU0/
* Wheel Paint - Graphite x 3-4 cans ($5 each) | http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-HWP102-Graphite-Performance-coating/dp/B000B6AF26/
* Wheel Paint - Clear Coat x 1-2 cans ($6 each) | http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-HWP103-Clear-Performance-Wheel/dp/B000B6AF2G/



PREPARATION

Buy and wear a Paint Respirator (BC paint contains carcinogens / CANCER) :
Link to 3M Paint Respirator ($30) ----> http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Tekk-...Multi-Purpose-Respirator-62023HA1-A/202080144
** Note that a dust mask is not the same thing and will NOT protect you very well.

Scroll down and read TheDurk's posted comment. Great stuff!

DO ONLY TWO WHEELS AT A TIME.

Allot about 2-3 hours of time for taking two wheels from cleaned to clear coat complete. I say only do two wheels at a time because if you try to do 4 then it is too many to juggle at once and also it takes too long between paint coats. Better to complete two wheels using this method then set them aside and repeat the process below for the remaining two wheels.



STEPS TO PROPERLY PAINT YOUR WHEELS

0. Do each step per wheel (of the two wheels) before moving to next step.

1. Clean wheels with soap and water using 3M scratch pad (purple). This will scuff up the surface of your existing finish

2. Let dry 30 mins or just dry up the water with paper towels.

3. Put on plastic gloves. Take a shop rag and lightly douse it with Turpintine. Wring out any excess. Now VERY quickly (don't linger in one spot for even a second) wipe the wheels down with this rag. This will remove any finger grease, paper towel threads or other residue.

4. PRIMER STAGE ---- Two light coats, 10 mins apart.

5. Let sit 30 mins before adding paint stage (per primer instructions)

6. PAINT STAGE - Two light coats, 10 mins apart, then final medium / wet coat (be careful not to get a run)

7. Let sit 30 mins (minimum per wheel) but neither wheel more than an hour before moving to next stage.

8. CLEAR COAT STAGE - 1-2 light coats only 10 mins apart OR 1 thick wet coat (this is what I did)

9. Let sit for 5 days. It will be dry to the touch in 1-2 hours but will take several days to fully harden.


Other Notes:
* It was difficult to capture the "true look" of these wheels by taking a picture outside in the sun using my phone camera. The 4th picture is closest to how they look to the human eye. IMO they are a bit darker than pictures 1&2 but either way they are a pretty cool metallic gunmetal like color and the finish from the clear turned out great.

* Once you paint and it dries for more than 2 hours you cannot redo the wheel for 5 days. It clearly states on the back of the can that if you mess up, you will need to wait the 5 days for the "paint layers to truly cure" before lightly sanding and respraying. Good news is that if you mess up you will not need to re-primer, just wait the 5 days then lightly scuff up the surface and paint over it.

* I removed the wheels before painting, this was more of a convenience as I had bought another awesome set of wheels which I will soon be selling. Because of this the wheel had no tires.

* Only do two wheels in a time period of 1-2 hours for the entire process. Then start on next set or if you are like me wait a few days because the first two were a lot of work.

* Let the wheels cure MORE than 5 days before mounting. I let mine cure 4 days and that was at about 70+ F indoors with about 3 hours a day out in the sun. When they were mounted the balancing machine and tire guys did scuff the edges a bit because the paint frankly was still soft despite looking cured. Its not a huge deal as I don't believe anyone can tell unless you are < 2 feet away from the wheel. But if I had to do it again I would let them cure indoors for like 2-3 days then 7 days outside 24x7.


Wheels - October 2014, San Diego, CA






:typing:
 

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That is very close to how I did mine, and exactly the same paints including the color.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/87633-official-wheel-paint-thread.html#post761181

Differences:

1.I used Red ScotchBrite (didn't know there was a purple).

2. I used mineral spirits instead of turpentine. I doubt either makes much difference.

3. I added three coats of Duplicolor Sandable Primer in between the Acid Etch and the Wheel Paint applied according to the instructions on the can. It did seem to smooth out some imperfections of which I had plenty...see link.

I did mine one at a time over the summer, as I had five wheels and four new tires and just kept swapping out. I would paint while I was doing something else and I had a little cooking timer to remind me when to go over and spray.

After two years on the road, wheels still look great. Respect the part about five days. Mounting and balancing will leave scars before that.
 
Added more pictures AND center caps!

Here is what they look like with the center caps on and painted red in the middle.

Hint: follow this advice and let the center caps dry one week before painting a new layer (in this case red) over the logo area. The can says all paint layers must be completed within 1 hour (2 is fine) or wait one week. I didn't wait and it almost turned out pretty bad. The grey underneath started to come apart because it hadn't fully cured. Luckily I was able to work around it by just doing about 5 coats of red but that is an extra hassle.
 

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I picked up the supplies to do this last weekend just waiting for the weather to settle! One question though... when you get your tires balanced will the weights be on the onside or the inside?

Mine are on the outside but will be swapping tires soon so I am wondering if the balancing weights can go on the inside.
 
I picked up the supplies to do this last weekend just waiting for the weather to settle! One question though... when you get your tires balanced will the weights be on the onside or the inside?

Mine are on the outside but will be swapping tires soon so I am wondering if the balancing weights can go on the inside.

Yes balancing weights CAN go on the inside. You need to make this clear to the person doing the balancing. Be sure they do 2 plane(dynamic) balancing. Many tire shops get lazy and do single plane (static) balancing.
 
I recently painted my factory 5 Stars with Duplicolor Wheel Paint.




:typing:

They look very nice. Two questions though.

1. How did the center caps turn out?

2. You went through all the steps, waited 40 days and 40 nights for the paint to dry, but you didn't pull the valve stems? :fish:

LOL, just bustin' your chops.
 
Yes balancing weights CAN go on the inside. You need to make this clear to the person doing the balancing. Be sure they do 2 plane(dynamic) balancing. Many tire shops get lazy and do single plane (static) balancing.

Thanks! This is good to know when I get my tires mounted.
 
I figured the valve stems are doing no harm and can be reused. I taped them off.

The center caps are up next, probably Wednesday or Thursday. For those I actually took down to the bare plastic by soaking in paint thinner and then scrubbing.
 
Nice job on the wheels Brian. Don't forget to add that the air temp needs to be above 60ºF and humidity below 70% for proper cure. Sucks to have to redo a bunch of hard work due to bubbling. Ask me how I know...
 
Alright Brian I may have copied you in regards to headlights but you are copying me when it comes to wheel color! :p looks good glad to see someone taking the time and doing it properly. Only difference between yours and mine is that I used a gun to shoot the clear.

Ignore the shity tires and tape job they got replaced the next week.

mtd-albums-mtd-s+green+turd+build-picture22337-20130915-130512.jpg


And for those of you who want to see what they look like mounted.
uve6aja7.jpg

yre6epeq.jpg

memyma8u.jpg
 
Its probably the same and I may have the name wrong. I reused my old pad and don't remember all the details of when I bought it. The key (for new readers) is that it isn't sandpaper.

Well, it appears we are both (slightly) wrong. The popular pad is officially known as Maroon #7447; there is neither a red nor a purple.

61skkT7z3eL._SX425_.jpg


Amazon.com: 3M Scotch-Brite General Purpose Hand Pad, 6-Inch by 9-Inch, 20-Pad: Kitchen & Dining

My local NAPA sells them by the single pad or box.

Here is the full official Scotch-Brite rainbow.

SCOTCHBRITE GRIT CHART
3M Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445 - White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500 grit
7448 - Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit.
6448 - Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
7447 - Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit
6444 - Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit
7446 - Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit
7440 - Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60(?)
Blue Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
(The value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)
3M Chart
Less Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
7445 7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer Finish --------> Coarser Finish

Sorry for the minor hijack, but I found this interesting.
 

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I figured the valve stems are doing no harm and can be reused. I taped them off.

The center caps are up next, probably Wednesday or Thursday. For those I actually took down to the bare plastic by soaking in paint thinner and then scrubbing.

My caps were in good shape compared to my wheels. I just lightly scuffed with the red (maroon) pad, degreased with mineral spirits, then did the Sandable Primer (2 Coats), Wheel Paint (3 Coats), Clear Coat (2 coats). No problem whatsoever going over the old paint--but again, they were all solid. No peeling at all.
 
Don't forget to add that the air temp needs to be above 60ºF and humidity below 70% for proper cure.


Did not know that. Right now mine are curing in the garage. It's probably around 70 F.

So do you think they would cure better in the direct sun for a few days?

I painted the second set of wheels yesterday.
 
I try to keep anything freshly painted in the garage until it's dry to the touch (about the first hour or so) to keep crap getting in the paint from the breeze, but after that, I suppose the sun would help speed up final cure times. The spray can always shows min temps and max humidity allowable without curing issues, and different brands/ paint types vary slightly with the acceptable tolerances.
 
Did not know that. Right now mine are curing in the garage. It's probably around 70 F.

So do you think they would cure better in the direct sun for a few days?

I painted the second set of wheels yesterday.

The UV light will cure the paint really quickly. My house at school is all car guys so we are looking at buying/building a UV dryer. They can dry paint to the touch in 15 min and cure it in like 4 hours.
 
[MENTION=94545]MTD[/MENTION]

So you did Duplicolor Graphite as well? (I see a rustolium can in the picture)

Did you do a clear coat?
 

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