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Why you do not use harbor freight cutting wheels. A chunk stuck in a garage door... :/ Imagine if that is your skull
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Next to the last post of the Tacoma that 2 DIY did. Primered and painted. It's been the project for a while.
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Why you do not use harbor freight cutting wheels. A chunk stuck in a garage door... :/ Imagine if that is your skull
I feel like I'm the only one that keeps the stock guard on my grinder. Still could have chunks fly off, but at least I'm on the 'safe' side of the guard! I know that you need to remove or adjust it sometimes, but it isn't hard to do.

-Charlie
 
I feel like I'm the only one that keeps the stock guard on my grinder. Still could have chunks fly off, but at least I'm on the 'safe' side of the guard! I know that you need to remove or adjust it sometimes, but it isn't hard to do.



-Charlie
Yes. I remove all of them and use better wheels. I found 2 bricks of harbor freight cutting wheels that i am trying to use up. I stepped on that one and has to just do a little slice.. we found that piece days later..


Granted, you really do have to be careful of the cutting wheels and wire wheels. Keep out of the line of fire. That's mostly how I use them.

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Welding nuts on broken lower ball joint bolts. Thankfully got to save that one. Got the busted bolt out. :)
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I applaud you for getting that one out. I helped a friend with his 3 stuck bolt with blue locktite. First we asked a shop to do it, they quoted $320 with no guarantees. Nope.

We took the spindle home and I helped for a while at his garage and we got the easier one out. The 2 blind ones were unsuccessful no matter how much heat or lube we threw at it.

$50 at a pick and pull got him another replacement usable spindle. He kept the old one to work on when time comes up.
 
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I applaud you for getting that one out. I helped a friend with his 3 stuck bolt with blue locktite. First we asked a shop to do it, they quoted $320 with no guarantees. Nope.

We took the spindle home and I helped for a while at his garage and we got the easier one out. The 2 blind ones were unsuccessful no matter how much heat or lube we threw at it.

$50 at a pick and pull got him another replacement usable spindle. He kept the old one to work on when time comes up.
The heat is the key with patience. You get some acetylene torches and get that area red a few times with good penatrating oil. They will mostly come out.

I am after inductive coils for this as in the rust belt. I am after that tool.
As I get that bolt red a few times, I get most of them.

If I had that toil. I don't think that bolt would have snapped.

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The heat is the key with patience. You get some acetylene torches and get that area red a few times with good penatrating oil. They will mostly come out.

I am after inductive coils for this as in the rust belt. I am after that tool.
As I get that bolt red a few times, I get most of them.

If I had that toil. I don't think that bolt would have snapped.


All we had at the time was a map torch. I think that was not hot enough to heat the area of that blind hole.

I want a inductive heat tool too! Ha, I don't need it here as it's pretty much rust free but, it would work for stuck on bolts.

That tool wouldn't have worked in our situation as there was no exposed stud to heat up. The 2 snapped bolts were recessed.

Did you see that vid that uses a copper sleeve to protect the exposed threads in the bolt hole, and a welder to get recessed bolts out? That's a cool way.
 
All we had at the time was a map torch. I think that was not hot enough to heat the area of that blind hole.



I want a inductive heat tool too! Ha, I don't need it here as it's pretty much rust free but, it would work for stuck on bolts.



That tool wouldn't have worked in our situation as there was no exposed stud to heat up. The 2 snapped bolts were recessed.



Did you see that vid that uses a copper sleeve to protect the exposed threads in the bolt hole, and a welder to get recessed bolts out? That's a cool way.
Can't say that I have. Lots of times. On the snap, even ones, you have to drill the bolt out and use easy outs to get them.



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The last thread on the 2003 Tacoma. It's now inspected with@Yeti2k3 driving it. 6 month project.

Now work on the wife's siennas [ which won't be here] then back to the 3rd gen projects. :)
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The 1997 limited needed another exhaust. Tail pipe rusted off...:(
Since Toyota is absolutely insane with exhaust parts. We sadly have to go aftermarket . :(
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So I use ebay northern stainless cat back exhausts. Along with stainless bolts nuts and washers. Mostly use tpyota exhaust and o2 sensor gaskets. However, if the aftermarket gaskets are the same shape as oem they mostly work.

You notice I use oem cat hangers too. I drill the nuts off though and just use stainless nuts in their place. :)

Being this is in the rust belt. I use permentex ultra copper rtv to help seal these rusted cat flange
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Too bad these 3.4s just don't sound very good with an aftermarket muffler. I had a Flowmaster 40 on my 1999 TRD Tacoma 4x4 and it sounded pretty good but that truck was a manual trans. Tried a Magnaflow on the 4Runner years ago and it was drone city.
 
How does northern stainless exhausts sounds compared to stock exhaust on the 3.4?
Ya Toyota exhaust has a crazy price point!
I guess your 4r sees daily salt bath during snowy months? Or does puddles turn to salt water puddles during summer months?
Sorry I never experience a snow state. I was from Hawaii, and salt is everywhere in the air. More so if the car sees the beaches parking lots.
 
I wish I could tell you what it sounds like compared to OEM as all my all of mine had cat back changed before I got them...:(

The reason I use these is price, and they last longer than walker exhaust do in this area.

I mean, the cat back delivered, I think, was around $230 with bolts replacement rubber bushings and 2 gaskets.

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