Broke

[colin4]

Hey everyone I'm new on this site and i wanted to get some feedback on a little problem. last night my tire flew off while I was going down the interstate. my studs are bent and i was wondering a) how much of a project would it be to do an axle swap with a straight from a first gen runner b) replace the studs and ball joint on my current independent suspension axle. My current axle also needs cv work on the passenger side. Which option would be easier? I have a 95 sr5 and I'm upgrading the tires to 31 inch mud terrains and I've already converted to manual hubs. Any input or suggestions would be appreciated.
Colin

 

[Footofgod]

Major undertaking, but is easily done for less than $1500 if doing the work yourself.

Do you weld?

 

[fourwd1]

There's plenty of threads on Solid Axle Swaps around. Read a few and you'll find out if it's something you can handle.

 

[bill_runner]

Major undertaking, but is easily done for less than $1500 if doing the work yourself.

Do you weld?

the OP is my room mate, i weld. let's hear it.

we found a first gen with a solid axle at a local junkyard so could we rob all the SAS sh** off of that?

 

[Footofgod]

I would get a rebuild kit and new springs from trail gear or just send me the axle to put on my Runner.

 

[Footofgod]

You'll probably want to convert the rear to leafs as well.

 

[colin4]

Haha we have jokes. I like you guys already. I was looking more for some opinions on pros and cons for which you would upgrade and why.

 

[fourwd1]

the OP is my room mate, i weld. let's hear it.

we found a first gen with a solid axle at a local junkyard so could we rob all the SAS sh** off of that?

Yes, you could get a lot of parts that way, which ones depends on your answer to the next question.

How much do you have/want to spend?

To do it the cheapest way possible you would reuse the suspension and steering system from the donor.
A better way would be new 3-4" lift springs and a cross-over steering system, but that will add about $800 or so.
Either way you would need spring mounts and stuff from one of the suppliers mentioned above.

 

[fourwd1]

Also grab the front driveshaft.

And if you were to go the "cheap" route now, you could always replace the springs and steering later.

 

[Footofgod]

Advantage-Better offroad performance.

Disadvantage-On road performance will not be as good as IFS.

So if your plan is to wheel the heck out of it, then I would get on it immediately.

 

[92-SR5]

If done right, an SAS converted vehicle can handle as good as IFS.

 

[KidVermicious]

Haha we have jokes. I like you guys already. I was looking more for some opinions on pros and cons for which you would upgrade and why.

It would be easier and less expensive by far to fix what you've got. Whether that's what I'd do depends entirely on what I'd be using the truck for ... if you wheel hard and break a lot of CVs, or need more than 4 inches of suspension lift to clear tires, then converting to a solid axle may be for you. But for a daily driver that sees up to moderate wheeling, keeping the IFS is the way to go. It's much more comfortable on the road and on fast dirt, and reliable enough in the rocks.

If you're running 31s, an SAS would be a waste of effort in my opinion.

 

[colin4]

Thanks for the input everyone I'm going to stick with my current setup and just rebuild it. I'll be taking pictures soon. I do moderate wheeling and it is my dd so I'll hold off on the axle swap for now.

 

[bill_runner]

Thanks for the input everyone I'm going to stick with my current setup and just rebuild it. I'll be taking pictures soon. I do moderate wheeling and it is my dd so I'll hold off on the axle swap for now.

yeah, then you can fix the saggy butt and leaky valve covers! :rofl:

 

[Footofgod]

What you may consider if you are keeping the IFS is a 2" OME lift. Fixes the saggy rear and beefs up the front a little with 2" ball joint spacers. Then you could run 33x10.5 tires and rock on and off road.

 

[Hyde802]

I agree with your decision to fix what you have. I feel that if you have to ask if a solid axle is right for you, your not ready for it. Not you personally, just that gets asked quite often.

Get a locker and go have fun. Your truck is plenty capable stock.

Heres TGs instrucsions on how to Sas a toyota, pretty helpful..

Trail-Gear Inc > IFS Eliminator Kit Instructions

Welcome to the forum!

 

[Footofgod]

*NEW* Full OME Suspension '90-'95 4Runner - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits

That's the kit I am currently running. Toytec is a good company to do business with. I rock offroad (stick around the forum, you'll see) and she is smooth on road.

 

[colin4]

So I've hit a speed bump. My lower ball won't come out. I've tried pounding it and a pickle fork but that didn't work. The upper cap nut won't come loose on the upper joint either. I've tried a breaker bar and pb but this is turning into a real pita. Anyone got any suggestions?

 

[KidVermicious]

So I've hit a speed bump. My lower ball won't come out. I've tried pounding it and a pickle fork but that didn't work. The upper cap nut won't come loose on the upper joint either. I've tried a breaker bar and pb but this is turning into a real pita. Anyone got any suggestions?

Pitman arm puller, you can borrow them at most auto parts stores. If that doesn't work, leave it soaking in PB Blast overnight, then heat and the 4 pound persuader. Lots of hammering, until your shoulder gets tired, and then hammer some more. It'll come out. If I remember right, you'll need borrow another tool to seat the new lower ball joint, but I may be confusing that with my old Ford...

What cap nut are you talking about up top? That ball joint has a tapered stud that goes into the spindle, and 4 bolts to the control arm. It'll be easier if you remove the stud from the spindle first.

 

[Footofgod]

Propane torch and 4lb hammer. Works every time!