Broken electrical plug.

[thewaydown]

I was working on replacing both valve cover gaskets on my 03 v6, and I broke the retaining clip on the pictured plug. Im not sure what the plug is for, identification would help so I can see about getting a replacement. It connects underneath the intake manifold at the front, near one if the injector plugs. There is another plug near it, which I managed to remove without breaking.

See pictures for details.

Anyone know what this is?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[thewaydown]

The plug is going into the timing case it looks like, and there is another plug directly in front of it that is also going into the timing case. These two connectors are also mirrored directly opposite near the other passenger valve cover.

Would using electrical tape/zip ties cause any problems? I guess I'm just worried about heat, as its sandwiched in between the intake manifold/throttle body/valve cover.

 

[thewaydown]

AH HA

I'm pretty sure its the connector for the variable valve timing solenoid.

https://www.ebay.com/p/Vvt4164-Engine-Variable-Timing-Solenoid-Actuator-Fits-Chevrolet-Pontiac-Toyota/1964777214?iid=183259036408&chn=ps

or

Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Yazaki » 2 Way Plug Pigtail for Japanese variable valve applications, (Toyota # 90980-11162)

In case anyone ever runs into this issue.

P.S- Have you guys ever read that study that showed talking to ones own self is a sign of intelligence?

 

[djpope09]

AH HA

I'm pretty sure its the connector for the variable valve timing solenoid.

https://www.ebay.com/p/Vvt4164-Engine-Variable-Timing-Solenoid-Actuator-Fits-Chevrolet-Pontiac-Toyota/1964777214?iid=183259036408&chn=ps

or

Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Yazaki » 2 Way Plug Pigtail for Japanese variable valve applications, (Toyota # 90980-11162)

In case anyone ever runs into this issue.

P.S- Have you guys ever read that study that showed talking to ones own self is a sign of intelligence?

You are correct that it is for the variable valve timing solenoid. I managed to break the connector on the solenoid while disassembling the engine to replace the head gaskets. It's a great way to feel like an idiot.

 

[thewaydown]

You are correct that it is for the variable valve timing solenoid. I managed to break the connector on the solenoid while disassembling the engine to replace the head gaskets. It's a great way to feel like an idiot.

That is definitely how I felt.

Did you replace the connector or did you just tape/zip tie it?

 

[gaber6]

I broke one of those solenoid connectors on my HG job and replaced it with a generic solenoid for $30. So far so good.

 

[djpope09]

That is definitely how I felt.

Did you replace the connector or did you just tape/zip tie it?

I replaced the solenoid with one off of Rock Auto. I figured I might be able to silicone it back onto the solenoid, but it wasn't that expensive to get a new one.

Let us know how the replacement process goes on the wiring side.

 

[nevada]

That is definitely how I felt.

Did you replace the connector or did you just tape/zip tie it?

if you can zip tie it, it will be just fine. if you must change the connector, I suggest getting the replacement, and re-pin it, using YOUR wires in the new connector. don't cut/splice.

 

[thewaydown]

I replaced the solenoid with one off of Rock Auto. I figured I might be able to silicone it back onto the solenoid, but it wasn't that expensive to get a new one.

Let us know how the replacement process goes on the wiring side.

if you can zip tie it, it will be just fine. if you must change the connector, I suggest getting the replacement, and re-pin it, using YOUR wires in the new connector. don't cut/splice.

Thanks for the input!

Im glad I didn't bust the male connection thats on the actual solenoid, although that may have been an easier job, and its around the same price.

I actually purchased the housing and two wires/pins from the stealership today paid $9 for the housing and $7 each for the wires. I was going to just order one, but I don't want to wait for it to ship. I'll post an update when I get it installed, probably in a day or two.

I'm assuming I just cut the old clip off, then splice and heat shrink the new clip with new wires?

Wire P/N: 82998-12440

Housing P/N: 90980-11162

 

[AuSeeker]

Thanks for the input!

Im glad I didn't bust the male connection thats on the actual solenoid, although that may have been an easier job, and its around the same price.

I actually purchased the housing and two wires/pins from the stealership today paid $9 for the housing and $7 each for the wires. I was going to just order one, but I don't want to wait for it to ship. I'll post an update when I get it installed, probably in a day or two.

I'm assuming I just cut the old clip off, then splice and heat shrink the new clip with new wires?

Wire P/N: 82998-12440

Housing P/N: 90980-11162

There's no reason to cut anything, if you have the new housing all you need to do is remove the old housing by depinning it and insert the old pins still attached to the original wires into the new housing, if you don't know how to depin look on youtube or the internet for how to do it correctly, you will also need the proper depining tools. it easy to do with the proper depining tool/s, if you do it this way be sure that the pins/wires go in the new housing in the proper position.

Cutting wires and splicing them back requires it to be done correctly or you risk losing the connection later and should only be done if the pins are not in good condition.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/18PCS-Ca...MIpry2lcem4QIVj6GzCh0oUQQqEAQYAyABEgIE9PD_BwE

 

[nevada]

Thanks for the input!

Im glad I didn't bust the male connection thats on the actual solenoid, although that may have been an easier job, and its around the same price.

I actually purchased the housing and two wires/pins from the stealership today paid $9 for the housing and $7 each for the wires. I was going to just order one, but I don't want to wait for it to ship. I'll post an update when I get it installed, probably in a day or two.

I'm assuming I just cut the old clip off, then splice and heat shrink the new clip with new wires?

Wire P/N: 82998-12440

Housing P/N: 90980-11162

cancel the pins and wires. all you need is the connector. don't cut anything. use a small pick or tiny screwdriver and release the pin from the connector. then just slide it into the new one.

 

[thewaydown]

There's no reason to cut anything, if you have the new housing all you need to do is remove the old housing by depinning it and insert the old pins still attached to the original wires into the new housing, if you don't know how to depin look on youtube or the internet for how to do it correctly, you will also need the proper depining tools. it easy to do with the proper depining tool/s, if you do it this way be sure that the pins/wires go in the new housing in the proper position.

Cutting wires and splicing them back requires it to be done correctly or you risk losing the connection later and should only be done if the pins are not in good condition.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/18PCS-Ca...MIpry2lcem4QIVj6GzCh0oUQQqEAQYAyABEgIE9PD_BwE

cancel the pins and wires. all you need is the connector. don't cut anything. use a small pick or tiny screwdriver and release the pin from the connector. then just slide it into the new one.

I actually had planned on trying to salvage the original pins out of the old housing, I just purchased the new wires/pins as a back up plan. I'd really like to get one of those terminal tools, but nowhere locally sells any for under 20 bucks, and I don't want to wait for one to ship. Maybe I'll change my mind about that after trying to pull the old pins out.

 

[nevada]

I actually had planned on trying to salvage the original pins out of the old housing, I just purchased the new wires/pins as a back up plan. I'd really like to get one of those terminal tools, but nowhere locally sells any for under 20 bucks, and I don't want to wait for one to ship. Maybe I'll change my mind about that after trying to pull the old pins out.

you might be able to file, or smash a paper clip down in to size/shape you need. I filed down an already tiny screwdriver. it works great.

 

[AuSeeker]

I actually had planned on trying to salvage the original pins out of the old housing, I just purchased the new wires/pins as a back up plan. I'd really like to get one of those terminal tools, but nowhere locally sells any for under 20 bucks, and I don't want to wait for one to ship. Maybe I'll change my mind about that after trying to pull the old pins out.

As mentioned by [MENTION=84120]nevada[/MENTION] you can remove the pins without the removal tools, they just make it much easier because by chosing the correct one they are already the size and shape to get the job done, if you mess up the pins trying to remove them, as you mentioned you do have the wire/pins as backup.

 

[Supersonic]

Actually with the type de-pinning tool I have, for the spark plug connectors, it didn't work very well so I would recommend trying to figure out something that would work best that you have available and make that work. I have a set of large reverse tweezers that I am going to try to use next because they are very thin metal, pointed at the end, and it seems to widen out appropriately. Also cutting that inner oval at the edges may make the de-pinning easier because it should take away some of the holding pressure, and you're certainly probably not gonna reuse the old connector. I have a small wire cutter I use for that.

 

[AuSeeker]

Actually with the type de-pinning tool I have, for the spark plug connectors, it didn't work very well so I would recommend trying to figure out something that would work best that you have available and make that work. I have a set of large reverse tweezers that I am going to try to use next because they are very thin metal, pointed at the end, and it seems to widen out appropriately. Also cutting that inner oval at the edges may make the de-pinning easier because it should take away some of the holding pressure, and you're certainly probably not gonna reuse the old connector. I have a small wire cutter I use for that.

In this case since the orginal plug connector is broken anyway, cutting it as suggested by Supersonic is a great idea, no need to fight trying to de-pin it in the traditional fashion and tool, if you have a dremel, it with the correct attachment would do the job nicely.

 

[thewaydown]

In this case since the orginal plug connector is broken anyway, cutting it as suggested by Supersonic is a great idea, no need to fight trying to de-pin it in the traditional fashion and tool, if you have a dremel, it with the correct attachment would do the job nicely.

Actually with the type de-pinning tool I have, for the spark plug connectors, it didn't work very well so I would recommend trying to figure out something that would work best that you have available and make that work. I have a set of large reverse tweezers that I am going to try to use next because they are very thin metal, pointed at the end, and it seems to widen out appropriately. Also cutting that inner oval at the edges may make the de-pinning easier because it should take away some of the holding pressure, and you're certainly probably not gonna reuse the old connector. I have a small wire cutter I use for that.

Before I even saw supersonics response I decided to attack (gently) the old broken housing with a tiny pair of dikes. The housing was so brittle it came apart extremely easily. I made sure to do this inside of a plastic grocery bag as to not loose plastic pieces everywhere in the engine bay or in my eyes. The original pins came out with ease, and were installed into the new housing even easier.

Thanks for the responses!