Broken sway bar end links (PICS)

Question is this the cause of the nasty highway speed sway kinda like winds blowing your rig and its rocking back and forth but without the wind. I have this problem and the Link Pins didn't do a thing for me and the sway is still there any clues ... Alignment has been done tires are at 8/32 and 9/32 but I am out of clues.


Do some more searching. I read somewhere that the blowing side to side feeling is from the camber setting? I think I read it in the 5TH generation section. I actually traded in a 2012 because of that problem. I have a 2013 SR5 now and it doesn't have the swaying feeling.
My 2000 doesn't either. I think the rack bushings will really help that in the 3RD gen 4Runners.
 
All done:


image by wjamyers, on Flickr


image by wjamyers, on Flickr

Used these Febests: http://www.amazon.com/Febest-Toyota-Front-Sway-48820-Ad010/dp/B00C6MPQ4U

$250 dollar job for $30 and 3.5 hours. Not too bad. What a PITA those corroded end links were. Thank goodness for those VIMs, I could hammer into place without too much worry.

We'll see if I have any problems with these cheesy end links. since I never wheel, I doubt I will. maybe Murphy's law will have me wheeling next season. I hope so.
 
I snapped mine on the driver's side yesterday on the trail. Will running it only connected on one side cause any issues? Also, how the heck do you get the bolt on the bottom of the end link off? The whole lower section spins when I turn the bolt. I tried to hold it with vise grips but it wasn't working at all.

Running one side will cause no problems as long as you remove the other broken side. I had to cut my old ones off.

Let me know if you need new links. There is a link in my sig for them.
 
I broke my driver side two days ago and was able to change it with no problems. i went ahead and got a second one for the other side but its rusty and when i move the lower bolt their is a small washer that moves with it preventing me from getting the lower part off. Any ideas??
 
Same issue here. What are the best bushings for the most comfortable ride? Moog makes replacement end links that come with bushing I think, but some get other ones?
 
Just for any newbs out there..... Disconnecting the front sway bar will change on road handling characteristics. Off road, a disconnected sway bar will allow more flex meaning more tire to ground contact in sticky situations ( when you need traction). If your vehicle has a solid front axle, this is called articulation. Our 4runners have ifs, not solid front axle.

Always appreciate someone providing background information, Thanks. :cheers:
 
Here's a pic of the tools I used to get the first end link off which is also included at the center of the pic.

The can is CRC freeze off (not nearly as unpleasant as other brands). The picks are Harbor Freight. The Allen/Hex Sockets are VIM Hand Tools SHM400.

I had to dig out the allen bolt/stud wrench hole using the picks, the little screwdriver and the freeze off. Once I could get the allen wrench in the hole I commenced to spraying, brushing, wiping, screwing out, screwing back in, spraying, brushing, wiping, screwing out a little bit more, screwing in, repeat ad nauseum until I finally got the damn thing off.

Thanks, I was trying to figure out if any special tools were required to get the links off.
 
So I've been riding around with two front broken sway bar links and is the consensus to leave them broken for a nicer ride over bumps?
 
So I've been riding around with two front broken sway bar links and is the consensus to leave them broken for a nicer ride over bumps?

It does make it feel a little better over bumps. I feel after time it will wear out the shocks a little faster from the swaying. Mountain driving is a little rough without it connected.

If anyone is looking for a stronger stock replacement thats not priced to crazy you can get the 1999-2006 Tundra links from Moog. Not sure on part number just try to find the cast version at part store. Member pointed out the part # I posted was not cast. Parts store want around $50 each but you can get them from rock auto for around $27 each if you find correct part #. They are a cast design instead of the spot welded design. They are 1/4" shorter but still work with lift. Disconnected they wont hold up travel. I have also found that stock rubber bushings will give more play and less chance of breakage from binding up like Poly bushings can.

Here are some pictures comparing the design difference.
 

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It does make it feel a little better over bumps. I feel after time it will wear out the shocks a little faster from the swaying. Mountain driving is a little rough without it connected.

If anyone is looking for a stronger stock replacement thats not priced to crazy you can get the 1999-2006 Tundra links from Moog. Part # K90680. Parts store want around $50 each but you can get them from rock auto for around $27 each. They are a cast design instead of the spot welded design. I have also found that stock rubber bushings will give more play and less chance of breakage from binding up like Poly bushings can.

Here are some pictures comparing the design difference.

Can you use the same ones for both the front and back for lifted rigs?
 
If anyone is looking for a stronger stock replacement thats not priced to crazy you can get the 1999-2006 Tundra links from Moog. Part # K90680. Parts store want around $50 each but you can get them from rock auto for around $27 each. They are a cast design instead of the spot welded design. I have also found that stock rubber bushings will give more play and less chance of breakage from binding up like Poly bushings can.

Here are some pictures comparing the design difference.

Thanks for the alternate part! Are you sure it's a direct fitment? The Tundra joint looks shorter.
 
Just did some quick Googling and it seems the K90680 (Tundra) is actually 1/4" shorter than the K90681 (4Runner), which is not preferable if you are lifted. Also, from this user's pictures it looks like the K90680 is a welded design and not cast as per some of the stock photos.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/broken-sway-bar-links-moog-k90680-vs-k90681-replacement.4455/

That difference in length won't be much of an issue up front. They picture you posted is the economy. At the parts store it was a cast design. Maybe I got the wrong part #. Thought that was the right one.
 
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