Built New Swaybar Endlinks for my Runner

Just wanted to bump this with an update, I now put over 8,000 miles on mine since mid September in all kinds of terrain and they look just like the day I put them on, I also have them on the front as well, same exact setup as the rear, holding up great.
 
TRD 4RNR said:
Looks like some of you are using part number 9.8121 and calling it 4 1/4 or 4 1/2 but the Energy Suspension 9.8121 Universal Sway Bar End Links 98121 says this is 6"

Can someone shed some light on this for me?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Wish I could but it's been quite some time ago that i did this. Contrary to the link you posted I believe the package I had said 4.5 which is probably the length of the spacer in between. I cant confirm that at this time but it worked well for my stock front. I have since added a lift a couple months ago and will be moving these to the rear. As far as I can remember my autozone didn't have anything larger so I'll just buy the bushings and get a couple bolts and spacers.
 
I have a question about the eyebolts that everyone used. The tie rod is 3/8" so I assume the eye bolt hole diameter is 3/8" but that doesn't seem to be available on McMaster. I smallest I found was a 1/2"

McMaster-Carr

The other option would be to use the solid rod end instead of the eyebolt, they do offer a 3/8" option.

McMaster-Carr

Is 3/8" the right hole diameter, or is there a small gap that the bushings squish into?

2 3/8"x4-1/2" Eyebolts SWL 1200lb - $3.96 each
Click to expand...
 
I used the same size eye bolts you listed. I got them at lowes.
I got 10,000 miles on mine front and back and they are holding up great.
 
Thanks for the hook-up, Trailmix! I saw this post the other day and thought it would work great on my 4th gen, too!

I bought the exact same "kit" - completed the rears over the weekend and then picked up a similar set-up to do the front endlinks next weekend.
 
Has anyone who has tried this setup have it fail on them yet?
Sounds like the best economical option so far.
 
4eigner said:
Has anyone who has tried this setup have it fail on them yet?
Sounds like the best economical option so far.
Click to expand...

They "can" bend under stress. This is setup is essentially only a long bolt, couple nuts, few bushings, and an eye bolt. Granted, they are strong than stock, but they can break.
 
Looking into this as I would like to throw my sway bars back on the rig. (it was sold to me with them off and missing hardware)

What's recommended?

9.8121R for front?
9.8149G for rear?
 
Damn that is a nice mod! Looks like a great idea. I'm gonna do it too.
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SpidermanGeek said:
Bump. - to anyone who's done this?

I'm still unclear on which ES end links to use on either end of the rig.
Click to expand...

What you want to do is mount your sway bar and then measure from the frame mount to the eyelet of the sway bar while the bar is parallel to your lower control arm.

With about 4-5" of lift in the rear (1995 FZJ-80 Land Cruiser Coils (48131-6A570), Tokico HD Shocks (48531-69417)), I measure a length of about 6 1/2". This also accounts for the Sonoran Steel rear sway bar lift bracket that is installed. For this, I got the the second-to-longest adjustable universal kit, 9.8166, and am going to add a ball-joint to the threaded end. Should end up with it being just over 6 1/2" with it all put together, and then I can adjust it up and down about a 1/2" overall.
 
Just wanted to update this and say that I did bend the eye bolt within 1000 miles of driving. Granted my setup was on the front swaybar, so the loads were greater than would be on the rear, but regardless these arent meant to handle this type of load.

Also, like someone said above, it would probably be better to mount the threaded end of the eyebolt rigidly instead of using bushings. You dont want there to be a torque about that point because then the sway bar would only be doing a fraction of the work. Just because it doesnt flex at that point under a static load when your parked doesnt mean it wont while youre driving.
 
yoyoyotrevo said:
Just wanted to update this and say that I did bend the eye bolt within 1000 miles of driving. Granted my setup was on the front swaybar, so the loads were greater than would be on the rear, but regardless these arent meant to handle this type of load.

Also, like someone said above, it would probably be better to mount the threaded end of the eyebolt rigidly instead of using bushings. You dont want there to be a torque about that point because then the sway bar would only be doing a fraction of the work. Just because it doesnt flex at that point under a static load when your parked doesnt mean it wont while youre driving.
Click to expand...

:police::police::police::police:
This is not the ideal set-up, and I've been calling this out for a long time. I'm not trying to pimp my sway bar links, but there is a right a wrong way of doing something. This way is about a 50/50 split.

For starters the shitty hardware store eye bolts should not be used. If you're going to do this at least pick up some good eye bolts from McMaster-Carr, and for god sakes STOP using the 3/8" crap that everybody uses. I can't understand why no body but myself uses 7/16" for this stuff. The 7/16" bolts are the largest diameter you can use without having to drill anything out.

Next onto the bushings. You need bushings on the top or the frame side of the links. However, you don't need bushings where eye bolt connects to the sway bar. Three sets of bushings on 1 link is not helping anything! Pick one or the other, but not both. Put bushings on the frame side, and at the rod/eye bolt.
 
Last edited:
MStudt said:
...
For starters the shitty hardware store eye bolts should not be used. If you're going to do this at least pick up some good eye bolts from McMaster-Carr, and for god sakes STOP using the 3/8" crap that everybody uses. I can't understand why no body but myself uses 7/16" for this stuff. The 7/16" bolts are the largest diameter you can use without having to drill anything out.

Next onto the bushings...
Click to expand...

I get what your say'n... but McMaster-Carr doesn't offer 7/16 bolts... the closest that I've found is:
3/8"-16 3/8" 13/16" 5" 4 1/2" 3/8" 2440K41 8.66

might go:
3/8"-16 3/8" 13/16" 3 1/2" 3" 3/8" 2440K23 8.40
if I can figure out the actual space needed... but I figure the longer above 'incase' this one is too short... I figure a nut, thick washer, sway-bar, thick washer, nut, lock nut... should keep it on 'solid' and 'shouldnt' be more than 3 inch long thread needed


I agree on the 3 sets of bushings... just the standard 2 bushing sets (top and bottom) will more than suffice.

yes I'd go the alloy steel for the 125k tinsel strength... cheaper than stainless...

so is this all right MStudt? what part number are you talking about?

McMaster-Carr
 
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