Built New Swaybar Endlinks for my Runner

[Roc Doc]

olice:olice:olice:olice:
This is not the ideal set-up, and I've been calling this out for a long time. I'm not trying to pimp my sway bar links, but there is a right a wrong way of doing something. This way is about a 50/50 split.

For starters the shitty hardware store eye bolts should not be used. If you're going to do this at least pick up some good eye bolts from McMaster-Carr, and for god sakes STOP using the 3/8" crap that everybody uses. I can't understand why no body but myself uses 7/16" for this stuff. The 7/16" bolts are the largest diameter you can use without having to drill anything out.

Next onto the bushings. You need bushings on the top or the frame side of the links. However, you don't need bushings where eye bolt connects to the sway bar. Three sets of bushings on 1 link is not helping anything! Pick one or the other, but not both. Put bushings on the frame side, and at the rod/eye bolt.

Agree. OP may be having good results, but the rigger in me is cringing to see that eyebolt used in that fashion. In fact they are not rated to have a load applied more than 45* off of vertical.

These diagrams describe what can happen when used incorrectly.

 

[A.Wilson013]

Agree. OP may be having good results, but the rigger in me is cringing to see that eyebolt used in that fashion. In fact they are not rated to have a load applied more than 45* off of vertical.

These diagrams describe what can happen when used incorrectly.

For what it's worth, my links (same as OP) are still going strong after about a year, and God knows how many HARD miles. I drive the hell out of this thing all summer long.

If/when it does break I'll be replacing it with the same P.O.S. eye bolt from Lowes that shows no signs of failing. It'd take a whole lot of couple dollar eye bolts breaking/bending to get up to the cost of the fancier options.

I am sure there are more failures out there, but the one on the previous page is the only one I have actually seen reported. Not that I have been looking for them.

I should knock on wood... This thing is probably going to snap this weekend while at the apex of a 70mph curve on the freeway sending my 4runner rolling over a mountain.

(If that does happen, someone better post "I told ya so")

 

[Roc Doc]

I should knock on wood... This thing is probably going to snap this weekend while at the apex of a 70mph curve on the freeway sending my 4runner rolling over a mountain.

(If that does happen, someone better post "I told ya so")

Dibs on your stuff!...unlessen of course you wipe out a station wagon full of nuns then it'd be a sin.

 

[MStudt]

I get what your say'n... but McMaster-Carr doesn't offer 7/16 bolts... the closest that I've found is:
3/8"-16 3/8" 13/16" 5" 4 1/2" 3/8" 2440K41 8.66

might go:
3/8"-16 3/8" 13/16" 3 1/2" 3" 3/8" 2440K23 8.40
if I can figure out the actual space needed... but I figure the longer above 'incase' this one is too short... I figure a nut, thick washer, sway-bar, thick washer, nut, lock nut... should keep it on 'solid' and 'shouldnt' be more than 3 inch long thread needed


I agree on the 3 sets of bushings... just the standard 2 bushing sets (top and bottom) will more than suffice.

yes I'd go the alloy steel for the 125k tinsel strength... cheaper than stainless...

so is this all right MStudt? what part number are you talking about?

McMaster-Carr

OK, so here's what I would do if I were going to build some. The sway bar itself will fit a 7/16" bolt without drilling, and the upper mount will fit a 1/2" bolt without drilling. Being that 7/16" is only a 1/16" away from 1/2" I'd drill out your sway bar, and run all 1/2" hardware. These are great eyebolts that a plenty strong. After that I'd get some 1/2" B7 threaded rod, Energy Suspension bushings, and some Grade 8 hardware. That should cover your needs.

 

[trifectaus]

That is the sexiest eye bolt I have ever laid my eyes on. Seriously brilliant work, and this forum rocks. 8 years and about to hit 400,000 without putting more than $600 in parts on her. The shear force on these should suffice; however, there won't be rotational abilities without seriously compromising other components and exerting that force on adjacent pieces. 10 years later, I'm curious how they're holding up?