Bushings, Super Pro or OEM?

Stick Figure

New member
My truck has started wanting to pull a bit under braking. I went through the calipers (tundra) again before our last trip and didn't find any issues other than a bit of surface rust starting on a piston which was replaced. I generally don't like to have the truck down for too long at any time so I try to do as much as I can when I take it apart. Before I go through the brakes again my only other thought is that there is a bushing (or several) moving around causing "alignment issues" while braking. I had good luck with the Super Pro bushings in the caster arms of my Lexus, but that wasn't a long term test by any means. Before I drop a few hundred dollars on the Super Pro catalog anyone have any comments good bad or otherwise about them?
 
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You'll get a lot of different answers, many just say "Poly is best as its stiffer, and as they slip they give more flex" Others will just say "Whiteline", I bed to differ on both accounts.

I have been running Super Pro upper and lower control arms bushes on mine for a few years, I'm about to go back to OEM Toyota, and here is why: (Examples for stock IFS, and lift)

Poly by design are firmer and deform less under load, - its part of their selling point. The idea is that the inner sleeve turns within the bush, riding on a layer of grease (or not if Whiteline). This a is nice in theory as it means that when suspension load is applied, there is no "joined rubber" turning and in effect binding, which in theory limits travel.

The issues start to arise when you factor in how out alignment is done, via eccentric cam bolts. Adjust them to reposition the lower arms, and torque up and hope they don't move. Poly Bushes leave you with two distinct disadvantages here.

1, They are designed to deform less, so more shock loading will go onto your eccentric cam bolt, and increase the chance of having your alignment knocked out (I have experienced this)

2, When you adjust the alignment, you will very rarely adjust the front and rear cams to the same setting. (in fact it is known practice to try and increase caster buy doing exactly this, to give better front wheel clearance).
If you imagine a straight virtual line drawn between the lower bushing bolts (or for a better analogy, imagine the top with that long bolt), the poly bushes move nicely as the arm moves up and down, sliding on their inner shaft, not deforming, giving controlled travel. As soon as you introduce a different adjustment, that straight line is broken, and for the suspension to cycle up and down, you are relying on the naturally "less prone to deform" poly bush to deform. Which introduces more bind than a wound up factory rubber bush, in good condition for "most" of its usable range.

Now factor in when the bush dries out (they do) it is annoying and squeaking, and binds even more. When I removed my front CV shaft, on the passenger side, the lower arm was so hard to push down I had to use all my weight. It went eventually with a groan, and threw the alignment out! - the adjustment bolts were tightened up to the correct torque.

It was at that point that I decided I want to go back to OEM for the lower arms for sure. Not only to OEM compress better, but they allow the central shaft to twist slightly on an access perpendicular to natural suspension travel, making the suspension cycling more natural when the lower bush misalignment is taken into account.

That argument doesn't stand for the upper arms and rears, which in theory as long as the bush is a perfect fit won't have this issue. I personally have decided I want OEM anyway, they lasted well for the fist majority of the trucks life. I run a Toytec boss kit on standard control arms all round (apart from front upper, that's light racing adjustable), in reality I don't have much more usable travel than stock (larger wheels, and the lift means less droop) so I am happy that the factory rubbers will have more than enough free movement for my useful suspension travel range, while cutting out some NVH in daily driving, and being silent without needing regreasing (which is a PITA job, especially for the lowers)

I was tempted to try Whiteline bushes as they have good reviews, and I like the idea of the coated insides that (claim) to not require any grease and remain smooth an silent, but this still doesn't address the lack of deformation.

I DID have Whiteline sway bar bushes, I tried to use them but the fit was poor (they are the same size as the factory rubbers, and don't compress as well, I had previously used Super Pro ones which fit perfectly, but squeaked after 5 minutes... well a year... or something)

I'm sure plenty will disagree and provide contrary experiences, but I've been there, done that, chosen to go back. I always take into account that lot of people may express an improvement when comparing 20+ year old factory bushes to new poly bushes.

Happy to update again once my front end rebuild is don't back to "fresh Toyota", with exception to the LR/SPC upper arms as factory won't fit, and Toytec lift. I'm even removing my rear adjustable Poly/Heim control arms, I ran them at factory length anyway.. they looked nice but added nothing more than that (and extra noise) so new factory upper arms, and rebuilt lowers with new factory bushes (and POR15).
 
You'll get a lot of different answers, many just say "Poly is best as its stiffer, and as they slip they give more flex" Others will just say "Whiteline", I bed to differ on both accounts.

I have been running Super Pro upper and lower control arms bushes on mine for a few years, I'm about to go back to OEM Toyota, and here is why: (Examples for stock IFS, and lift)

Poly by design are firmer and deform less under load, - its part of their selling point. The idea is that the inner sleeve turns within the bush, riding on a layer of grease (or not if Whiteline). This a is nice in theory as it means that when suspension load is applied, there is no "joined rubber" turning and in effect binding, which in theory limits travel.

The issues start to arise when you factor in how out alignment is done, via eccentric cam bolts. Adjust them to reposition the lower arms, and torque up and hope they don't move. Poly Bushes leave you with two distinct disadvantages here.

1, They are designed to deform less, so more shock loading will go onto your eccentric cam bolt, and increase the chance of having your alignment knocked out (I have experienced this)

2, When you adjust the alignment, you will very rarely adjust the front and rear cams to the same setting. (in fact it is known practice to try and increase caster buy doing exactly this, to give better front wheel clearance).
If you imagine a straight virtual line drawn between the lower bushing bolts (or for a better analogy, imagine the top with that long bolt), the poly bushes move nicely as the arm moves up and down, sliding on their inner shaft, not deforming, giving controlled travel. As soon as you introduce a different adjustment, that straight line is broken, and for the suspension to cycle up and down, you are relying on the naturally "less prone to deform" poly bush to deform. Which introduces more bind than a wound up factory rubber bush, in good condition for "most" of its usable range.

Now factor in when the bush dries out (they do) it is annoying and squeaking, and binds even more. When I removed my front CV shaft, on the passenger side, the lower arm was so hard to push down I had to use all my weight. It went eventually with a groan, and threw the alignment out! - the adjustment bolts were tightened up to the correct torque.

It was at that point that I decided I want to go back to OEM for the lower arms for sure. Not only to OEM compress better, but they allow the central shaft to twist slightly on an access perpendicular to natural suspension travel, making the suspension cycling more natural when the lower bush misalignment is taken into account.

That argument doesn't stand for the upper arms and rears, which in theory as long as the bush is a perfect fit won't have this issue. I personally have decided I want OEM anyway, they lasted well for the fist majority of the trucks life. I run a Toytec boss kit on standard control arms all round (apart from front upper, that's light racing adjustable), in reality I don't have much more usable travel than stock (larger wheels, and the lift means less droop) so I am happy that the factory rubbers will have more than enough free movement for my useful suspension travel range, while cutting out some NVH in daily driving, and being silent without needing regreasing (which is a PITA job, especially for the lowers)

I was tempted to try Whiteline bushes as they have good reviews, and I like the idea of the coated insides that (claim) to not require any grease and remain smooth an silent, but this still doesn't address the lack of deformation.

I DID have Whiteline sway bar bushes, I tried to use them but the fit was poor (they are the same size as the factory rubbers, and don't compress as well, I had previously used Super Pro ones which fit perfectly, but squeaked after 5 minutes... well a year... or something)

I'm sure plenty will disagree and provide contrary experiences, but I've been there, done that, chosen to go back. I always take into account that lot of people may express an improvement when comparing 20+ year old factory bushes to new poly bushes.

Happy to update again once my front end rebuild is don't back to "fresh Toyota", with exception to the LR/SPC upper arms as factory won't fit, and Toytec lift. I'm even removing my rear adjustable Poly/Heim control arms, I ran them at factory length anyway.. they looked nice but added nothing more than that (and extra noise) so new factory upper arms, and rebuilt lowers with new factory bushes (and POR15).

Everything you say is true about the OEM vs Poly. Only issue I have found with OEM bushings are when wheeling really hard that "binding" of the bushing wears it out pretty quickly.

Polys wont wear out when wheeling. I tq'ed my LCA cam bolts to 175ftlb and they never slip. But man are they loud. They squeak like crazy. Im going to live wiht the sound to not have to replace them over and over.
 
Happy to update again once my front end rebuild is don't back to "fresh Toyota", with exception to the LR/SPC upper arms as factory won't fit, and Toytec lift. I'm even removing my rear adjustable Poly/Heim control arms, I ran them at factory length anyway.. they looked nice but added nothing more than that (and extra noise) so new factory upper arms, and rebuilt lowers with new factory bushes (and POR15).


Who made them and are you looking to sell them now that you're switching back?

Sorry to thread jack but gotta take the opportunity. Really need the extended links for the lift I have



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Who made them and are you looking to sell them now that you're switching back?

Sorry to thread jack but gotta take the opportunity. Really need the extended links for the lift I have



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They were the Ebay ones. I altered them somewhat to make them fit properly (custom misalignment spacers and bush sleeves, removing some material). I might sell them, or keep them for spare, but either way, it wouldn't make sense to ship them back to the US, when they are probably worth more here, as they have had shipping and import duty paid! Sorry!

More details on my build thread from Here Down
 
Last edited:
They were the Ebay ones. I altered them somewhat to make them fit properly (custom misalignment spacers and bush sleeves, removing some material). I might sell them, or keep them for spare, but wither way, it wouldn't make sense to ship them back to the US, when they are probably worth more here, as they have had shipping and import duty paid! Sorry!



More details on my build thread from Here Down


I didn't realize you were outside the US
I'll look through your build thread. Thank you



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Well I went ahead and ordered the OEM bushings for the front. There were a lot of good points brought up, but I boiled it down to the fact that these are 15 years old with 280k+ on them so I doubt I'll kill a new set in a hurry. With the way I rely on this truck, I'm not interested in making it a test bed if I don't have to. The only thing that may change my mind is if they show up and don't say Japan on them. I've noticed too often the tundra/taco parts substituted when ordering 4Runner parts. While they're all Toyota they aren't the same manufacturer originally.
 
I almost went OEM on my LCA bushings but in the end I decided on Whitelines. They did their homework designing them. the way the sleeve sits in the bushing creates a pretty tight seal on the ends so the schmoo stays inside. time will tell. BUT when time comes to replace, it will sure be easier and not so scary to just have to press out the poly part and not the whole thing.
 
BUT when time comes to replace, it will sure be easier and not so scary to just have to press out the poly part and not the whole thing.

THAT I fully agree with!

I found a place in the UK that can supply me with new Toyota lower arms with bushes for $122 a side delivered (would have been lower when I got them, due to exchange rate) I decided the little bit extra cash was worth my time for a "bolt on bolt off" installation.. plus the hidden captive bolts on my bump stops had become detached.

Hopefully the existing adjustment sleeves will come off fine, as they have only been on a few years.
 
They were the Ebay ones. I altered them somewhat to make them fit properly (custom misalignment spacers and bush sleeves, removing some material).
I am willing to bet this is the sole issue you were having problems. If it was a subpar/ill-fitting part to begin with why do you think it would hold an alignment and stand the test of time?

superpro is a very well respected company in the bushing world. comparing superpros to whatever stuff in your car is like comparing a geo metro to a hellcat.

while not as popular, strong flex is also a great company that makes LCA bushings for our rigs. they are sold by sonoran steel. i have used strong flex on a previous vehicle with good luck.

yes poly squeaks. that is why we have poly specific grease and zerk fittings. poly isnt some godly material, but it is better than rubber IMO. :)
 
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I've been plenty happy with my whiteline bushings, they've got about 15k miles on them at this point, mud, snow, etc. No sand or salt though. They haven't made any noise at all and gave me no trouble in getting a proper alignment. I'll be using them any time I do a front end rebuild on a 4runner or taco.

Sent from my JSN-L23 using Tapatalk
 

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